77 replies to this topic

[OBEY]

Here's an introduction to my UC. I've had her for 20 years. In her glory years she ran a 13.6@100mph with a stock 308 converted to unleaded, mild cam, 650dp and extractors. Its been neglected in the last 8 years but let me show you what 2016 has brought her and hopefully a debut for 2017 dressed to impress. 

 

 

[OBEY]

Sending it away to get tubbed for 255 slicks and LX rear conversion. Let the pros do this.

Working on a new dash

[OBEY]

Shave and smooth that engine bay. First time learning to fabricate and weld. Using 1.2mm zinc anneal. 

 

[OBEY]

First time learning to HVLP using Protec Epoxy PP 3450. 

Deleting spare tire.

[OBEY]

LX front upgrade. Full fibreglass panels

Can't find a front radiator support panel so lets try and modify the UC to work... Got a new lower support to weld on.

[Redslur]

Great work so far...

[Doubledip]

Looks great. Love the engine bay work. Plan on doing the same to mine. Cutting it right back to the rails. Good work and keep up the posts.


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[Bigfella237]

Personal preference of course but damn I hate "lipped" chassis rails, might be a different story if you're gonna re-centre the K-member mounting holes though...

 

Or is that K-member bolted in there forever now OBEY?

[OBEY]

Or is that K-member bolted in there forever now OBEY?

Access is now under guards.

[OBEY]

Colour choice?

 

Sticking to the factory colour Antelope. Its been with me too long to change it and I do like it.

[Heath]

Nice work. Watching with interest

[Statler]

I hope the mod plate finds a new home ....... like in the boot.

[OBEY]

I hope the mod plate finds a new home ....... like in the boot.

 

Yeah I hate where they mounted it. I have been reading the rules on it, trying to figure out where to move it to. I want this car to be squeaky clean legal so that if I get pulled over I am fully confident nothing can be fined. Do people mount them in the boot? I found the law here: Transport Operations (Road Use Management) Act 1995, 13, (3): 

 

( b ) ensure a plate, in the approved form, that is stamped or engraved with details of the modification (a modification plate), is attached to a conspicuous part of the vehicle.

 

So it appears legally I can have it in the boot.

Edited by OBEY, 21 December 2016 - 12:13 AM.

[Statler]

It all comes down to how your engineer decodes the wording.

 

I asked 5 or 6 C.E's before i found one who had common sense. 

 

Nowhere on the paperwork does it say where the mod plate was originally mounted.  

[derrin71]

Mine's in the hatch area, my mod plate guy said as long as it's mounted to a part of the body that's not removable.

[OBEY]

Mine's in the hatch area, my mod plate guy said as long as it's mounted to a part of the body that's not removable.

Thanks. I'll do the same.

[OBEY]

Spending more time on the old gal. I've decided to fabricate my own radiator support panel with unboltable top support. Had to extend the inner guards to suit the lx panels:

Notice the top bar is unboltable. Will be bracing the vertical section with angle when I figure out how to fit the wiza cooler 

[gtrboyy]

Aint got no mod plate for my tubbed car & it's been re-registered twice in 10 years...as long as still have old engineers & old rego slip with vsb code on it should be fine.

 

Thought mod plate was qld thing.

 

Ironically nobody picks on these old cars now...they seem more shocked just to see one driving.

Edited by gtrboyy, 28 December 2016 - 10:09 PM.

[Bigfella237]

Yeah I've registered a few cars in NSW with engineer certified modifications and none of them have had mod plates fitted, somebody here once said they were "optional" in NSW but I've never seen one fitted by a NSW engineer (not to say that it hasn't been done of course).

 

The "condition" and report number must be entered on the RTA's system and then "Modified as per report: xxx" gets printed across the bottom of the rego papers, and you must also carry a copy of the report with the vehicle at all times so Mr Plod can see what's approved and what isn't, but other than that, no mod plate needed here.

 

But I don't blame you for wanting to hide it away somewhere, a big shiny blue plate with messy engraving looks just wonderful in an engine bay you've just spent hundreds of hours smoothing and painting... NOT!

[OBEY]

So back to working my ass off on the car. If I want this done by this year I need to step up my game. Took about 2 months to learn how to Tig weld and fabricate a hidden turbo. 

 

Here I ordered various 304 and 316 stainless components. I used 308 filler rod and thoriated tungsten for the thick parts with 40 ~ 50 amps and ceriated tungsten with low voltage 25 ~ 40 amps on the tubes. The exhaust ports are 45mm and I got 4-into-1 merge pipes with 2-1/4" out. I got an off piece of box section from the local steel yard and drilled out bolts to lock it down to prevent warping while welding.

 

Spent lots of time playing lego with the parts to get a complete system that fit:

 

Heres the end result. Not bad for a first timer?

Heres what it looks like underneath:

 

Because I spent so much time shaving and smoothing the engine bay I didn't want any of the turbo system being a eye saw. I want it all hidden away out of view:

 

I really had a hard time engineering the drivers side. The 4-into-1 collector was difficult to position between where I wanted the turbo mounted. In the end I had to sacrifice the factory torana alternator bracket. I have used an ebay chevy mount that tucks the alternator a little closer to the block. I will need to modify it to bolt it up but Im happy with the position. I got a shorter belt. Moving the alternator gave me just enough space to fabricate a really simple manifold. You can see the turbo is hidden underneath.

 

3" dump pipe. The hooker aero chamber had the best recommendation for a muffler. I used a dellows conversion aluminium crossover so I could tuck the exhaust up as high as possible. Everything is fitted with V-band clamps including the crossover pipe and dump pipe. I'm not sure if my joints will reduce flow but they were easiest to fabricate rather than cutting up 3" bends.

 

I modified a universal tail shaft loop to fit the torana. Just had to cut it down. Eventually I think it will be smarter if I weld the loop section together:

Have a look from the top. Can you see the turbo?

 

Have a closer look. "No officer it doesn't have a turbo"

The light buckets are plastic and from ebay USA.

 

Well I need to start working double time if I want this back on the road this year!

[gtrboyy]

Vt engine covers would suit that nicely!!!

 

Impressive & outside the box thinking.

 

Been wanting to do similar tuck alternator to block for ages now...just not convinced about $200 lowe fab version.

 

What alternator & bracket?

[OBEY]

What alternator & bracket?

 

CVR 200amp alternator.

This bracket: http://www.ebay.com....d-/371724726764

I originally bought it for the adjustable rose joint. but the bracket fits. All I need to do is drill another hole to bolt it to the holden V8.

[Toranamat69]

G'day Obey,  This build is superb.  Great to see an update.

 

That radiator support is spot on.  I started with a std LX one and am almost down to a flat sheet like yours anyway.

 

Nice work on the engine bay. Helps me with a few things on mine.

 

Matt

[Heath]

Hahaha this is awesome. Please continue.