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Aussie 4 spd shifter - re-build or replace?


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#1 Brent J

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:22 PM

Hi there,

 

I have a stock box and Aussie 4 speed shifter in my LJ. I has a lot of slop and is does not have a positive feel when selecting gears. It now has got to a point where it gets stuck in second when shifting to third. I have to climb under and manually move the selector arm out of 2nd, then move on!

 

Question....

 

1) Do I pull out the shifter and have it re-built? If so, does anyone know a place in Melbourne that rebuilds these?

2) Can the shifter be removed from the top through the hole in the tunnel, or do I have to drop the box?

3) If re-build is not at option, has anyone tried the Rare Spares replacement shifters? Any good??

 

Cheers,

Brent



#2 Bomber Watson

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:29 PM

The little selector tang on the bottom of the stick wears. 

 

If you can weld and grind then you can rebuild it yourself. 

 

If you cant then a replacement item is probably cheaper than getting a shop to do it. 

 

You MIGHT be able to get it out through the top, I used to be able to on mine but it had a custom hacked shifter hole not the factory one, not sure if you can with the stock holes. 



#3 Brent J

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:34 PM

Great Bomber - thank you.

 

Ok, ill pull the console off and see if I have room to pull it out. I have a MIG and a grinder so might give it a go myself..

 

To square up the bottom tang, do I need to disassemble the shifter itself? I've read on this forum that people have had trouble pulling it apart and also getting the shims sorted..?



#4 Bomber Watson

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:36 PM

frOck its been a long time since i've done one..... Cant recall any huge hurdles but best you read as much as you can so its as seamless as possible. 

At the end of the day if you have a go yourself then all you will loose is a few hours of your time. 

The tang on the bottom is a bit of a funny shape, its square at the back and has a dick at the front, dont have any picks of one in good shape but if you look at the selectors that it slides into you will get a fair idea. 



#5 S pack

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:37 PM

Hi there,

 

I have a stock box and Aussie 4 speed shifter in my LJ. I has a lot of slop and is does not have a positive feel when selecting gears. It now has got to a point where it gets stuck in second when shifting to third. I have to climb under and manually move the selector arm out of 2nd, then move on!

 

Question....

 

1) Do I pull out the shifter and have it re-built? If so, does anyone know a place in Melbourne that rebuilds these?

2) Can the shifter be removed from the top through the hole in the tunnel, or do I have to drop the box?

3) If re-build is not at option, has anyone tried the Rare Spares replacement shifters? Any good??

 

Cheers,

Brent

If you have the factory size hole then you can remove the shifter through the hole in the tunnel if you hold your tongue the right way.

From memory you will need to remove the transmission support crossmember to disconnect the gear change linkages from the shifter.

I do not know who in Melbourne would rebuild the shifters.

Rares used to sell genuine GMP&A replacement Aussie 4spd shifters but I have no idea what they are selling these days.



#6 Brent J

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 08:07 PM

Thanks guys. Appreciate the help. Ill give it a crack and let you all know how I go.

 

Cheers,

Brent



#7 grumpy xu1

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 09:17 PM

Dave & other's with a good memory, has anyone posted a how to on this proceedure ? I will have to check mine out & eventually may have to do a repair, I've never checked it. Gary.

#8 Bazza

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 09:22 PM

Hi Brent,

 

Here a a few pics  of the part that wears the most. There are 3 different shifters here.

 

Cheers

 

Bazza

 

 

Attached Files



#9 Brent J

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 10:50 PM

Thank you for the pictures Bazza.

 

Ill try removing the shifter next week. If I can get it out, ill see how I go pulling it apart to start the rebuild.

 

Ill take a bunch of pictures and document the fun!

 

Cheers,

Brent



#10 grumpy xu1

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 10:58 PM

You're a legend Bazza 👍 no doubt i'll have to do the shifter as well 😠 i'll be watching this thread. Gary.

#11 Bazza

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 11:06 PM

Thank you for the pictures Bazza.

 

Ill try removing the shifter next week. If I can get it out, ill see how I go pulling it apart to start the rebuild.

 

Ill take a bunch of pictures and document the fun!

 

Cheers,

Brent

 

That's what I did when I pulled mine apart.There's lots of shims and wave washers that have to go back into the correct locations.

 

Cheers

 

Bazza

Attached Files


Edited by Bazza, 30 December 2016 - 11:16 PM.


#12 Brent J

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 12:26 AM

So, only a small update so far..

 

I dropped the gearbox cross member to get easier access to the linkages. Note - I think I could have probably got to the linkage pins without removing the cross member, but I figured id remove it and give it a good de-grease and clean while I was there..

 

Linkage bushes at the box and the shifter didn't seem to have too much play front to back. Maybe 1 - 2 mm max in one of them. Reverse linkage seems tight too.. I was kinda hoping to find more play....

 

Onto the interior. Shifter knob removed and removed the centre console. I was able to access the top two bolts that hold down the shifter, but couldn't get the rear bolt. The gear box tunnel sheet metal fouled the extension bar to the socket so I had to remove about 5mm of material to get the extension seated properly. Job done - shifter came out no worries.

 

Photos below of the assembly on the bench. Again, I was hoping it was a bit more flogged out, which would give me confidence that the shifter is the culprit for my 2nd to 3rd gear jamming issue. In any case - still signs of wear and rounding of the contact parts..

Attached Files



#13 Brent J

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 12:29 AM

more pics.

 

Will start disassembling shortly for a better look.

Attached Files



#14 Bomber Watson

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 05:48 PM

See how the tang on the end of the actual shifter is kinda triangle shaped?

It should be square sided, rectangle shaped. 

 

Edit, that doesnt look like a stock shifter either, but may be wrong, someone with more klowlege will come along and correct me. 


Cheers. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 08 January 2017 - 05:49 PM.


#15 Statler

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 08:57 PM

It's supposed to be triangular m8.

Any thicker & they wont go into reverse. :)

 

Clean the grease off & throw up some more pics.



#16 Bazza

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 09:20 PM

Hi

 

If there is any doubt, this is the correct Aussie4 speed shifter.

 

Cheers

 

Bazza

 

 

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#17 Lc69

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 10:25 PM

So from memory you can set the pre-load on the lateral movement of the shifter to make the 3-4 gate line up nicely when the stick is pushed over.
Otherwise when moving from the 1-2 gate to the 3-4 gate it will not line up naturally and can make it a bitch to get into third smoothly.
When you are staring at it without the boot on it always lines up, but when you are doing it naturally while driving there will be a sweet spot you can adjust for so it just feels right naturally.

Just thinking out loud, if you are having issues with two gears being engaged at once, and the shifter isn't looking too bad, you may also want to check the selectors on the inside of the side cover for wear. The two spring loaded plates designed to detent the selector forks in position can wear over time and the gear positions can become less positive.....if that makes any sense.

#18 Brent J

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:28 PM

Just measured the stick on my shifter and it seems to be the same as yours;;

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#19 Brent J

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:37 PM

So I have pulled the shifter apart and given each bit a good clean and wire brushing.

 

I am not sure if this is the original shifter, but it seems to have had some repairs in the common wear areas.. In any case I was surprised that it did not have many shims, 2 only.... Also, not a huge amount of wear.

 

The tang on the main shifter arm has wear - it is triangular (but this does seem to be the correct shape less the rounded edges??)

The reverse selector arm seems quite good. The rubber bush is in good condition

 

Attached Files

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  • Attached File  2.jpg   309.2K   2 downloads
  • Attached File  3.jpg   278.26K   2 downloads


#20 Brent J

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:39 PM

The reverse selector arm appears to be in fair condition...

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  • Attached File  13.jpg   231.13K   3 downloads

Edited by Brent J, 09 January 2017 - 10:40 PM.


#21 Brent J

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:44 PM

The bracket that holds it all together seems to have the most wear...

Small amount of wear on the 1 - 2 and 3 - 4 selectors..

Attached Files

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  • Attached File  6.jpg   208.82K   5 downloads
  • Attached File  7.jpg   181.15K   5 downloads

Edited by Brent J, 09 January 2017 - 10:45 PM.


#22 Brent J

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:49 PM

I also bought a re-build kit from rare spares too and strangely it seems to be quite different to my bits (on the right)...???

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#23 sibhs

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 12:29 AM

Yeah the kit doesn't seem to have right pivot shaft.  Use the rest and weld and grind your shaft if required.

Also check the selectors on the outside of side cover, they can be flogged out where they fit on.

 

Marty



#24 Bazza

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 07:34 AM

Yeah the kit doesn't seem to have right pivot shaft.  Use the rest and weld and grind your shaft if required.

Also check the selectors on the outside of side cover, they can be flogged out where they fit on.

 

Marty

 

I have 3 "short shifters" and one with the rubber damper (LH LX?) - they are all a little different component-wise.

 

Cheers

 

Bazza



#25 S pack

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 07:54 AM

Prob wouldn't cost all that much to get a machine shop to to turn one up if a new shaft is reqd.






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