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cant put stub axle back onto new ball joints


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#1 _livo74_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 12:43 PM

was i sent wrong ball joints? too thick spindle??

is my stub axel not even off a torana?? haha!

fooking jeezus!

 

have i done one or many things wrong? i imagine i have.

 

anyone had this problem? no one seems to have a thread on it.

 

i fooking sheared the nut BALD!! before it would slide up further onto last cm of ball joint spindle.

i even greased spindle.

 

.......

if i removed the "rts" washers, i think it's axis would line up better. (still probably wont go on/do anything.)

last photo shows that upper control arm axix is further "inward" by far than lower.

 

lastly, if all other correct advice not able to fix.. can i just drill out upper axle hole 1mm wider to fit my upper balljoint?????

 

am at a loss. completely.

 

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Edited by livo74, 14 January 2017 - 12:50 PM.


#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 12:48 PM

I dont actually see an issue?

The ball joint shaft is tapered, and so is the hole it goes into, so it doesnt go all the way up and seat anywhere in particular, it just steats on the taper. 

There appears to be sufficient thread under the stub to be able to do the nut up and get the split pin through. No idea why you stripped the nut unless you put a huge breaker bar on it and tried to do it up tighter to get the stub to go higher on the ball joint shaft?



#3 _livo74_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 01:04 PM

couldn't get it up far enough to slide locking pin in. still hidden, hence why thought force would get it highter that last 2-3mm?

 

 

and... looking photo.. seems to moved since took off my sheared nut and just hand put on spare nut i had! you are right! it's in now!

not sure what was hindering it earlier.

(might of been the whacking with axe head i gave it that freed something up a tad!?? haha!)

 

cheers bomber! was getting tad stressed about it.

 

_________

any thoughts on my "rts" /shim setup?

does it look right?


Edited by livo74, 14 January 2017 - 01:04 PM.


#4 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 02:51 PM

I do the little Toranas man, they dont have such things as RTS anything... So I could only comment on the ball joint issue. 

Someone else will chime in with the other question surely. 



#5 _livo74_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 03:51 PM

cheers anyways bomber ^_^

 

figured maybe the angle of the dangle might of hindered stub aligning issue.

as that all sorted now, worst comes to worst, when take to have steering aligned i hope rts is known and properly done by  them



#6 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 04:00 PM

You should be able to physically feel when the balljoint maxes out in its sidey sidey roundy roundy travel (do not know the technical term) and eyeball if its about right. 

Keep in mind your trying to do this now here near ride height either most likely. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 14 January 2017 - 04:00 PM.


#7 Bigfella237

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 04:52 PM

Only ever seen one guy break a ball joint doing it up, it prompted the phrase "Do it up till it snaps, then back it off half a turn" which haunted him for years afterward.

 

I reckon the most common mistake by far in anything mechanical is people over-tightening nuts & bolts, so I would strongly suggest purchasing a torque wrench and a decent workshop manual, once you've been doing it eight hours a day for ten or fifteen years you'll probably get a "feel" for it, but until then, "specified torque" is the way to go.

 

You say you stripped (?) the nut then replaced it? Are you absolutely sure the ball joint shaft and/or thread wasn't damaged?

 

Ball joints are one thing you don't want to take chances with.

 

But yeah, as DJ said, so long as you have enough thread to get the split pin in and the ball joint shaft has the correct taper angle matching the stub axle, it doesn't have to sit at any height in particular. I suspect you're judging how far it goes in based on the rubber boot, but that will likely swell to meet the stub axle once you grease the ball joint anyway.

 

As for the shim packs, generally you try to put them back in the same way they came out, but it doesn't matter too much, they will all be adjusted when you get the car wheel aligned anyway.



#8 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 07:42 PM

I would strongly suggest purchasing a torque wrench and a decent workshop manual, once you've been doing it eight hours a day for ten or fifteen years you'll probably get a "feel" for it, but until then, "specified torque" is the way to go.

 

A tension wrench will only work with ball joint nuts if the spring is compressed. If the spring is correctly located, it will put more force on the nuts. Under this situation, the nuts will be under torqued.



#9 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 10:13 PM

Correct ^ 

 

It actually comes back to finding someone in your locality who can show you how to do it, really. 



#10 _livo74_

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Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:12 AM

hmm, 

"absolutely sure the ball joint shaft and/or thread wasn't damaged?"

 

might be culprit, the nut i used that is.

see, someone misplaced the ziplock bag set aside containing the nuts, grease nipples, and locking pins that came with the ball joints..

so i just used a nut from the scrap bag of 40 yr old misc bits that came with the car. and someone didn't even do a cursory check of it's condition. 

 

dill.

(and a 20 minute clean up/search of shed found it ..after i caused the grief, naturally)

 

did apply, um, some force, but didn't go mega hard! or use a breaker bar or anything,

suspect now thread had been abused before i went to put it to use. other side stub went on just fine.

 

__________________

don't have any experience at this, and so should of bought/used a torque wrench on car where applicable.

people here have told me to be sure to buy/use loctight when putting suspension back together. at least remembered to do that.

 

_________________

also, didn't want to affect height, so rather that put in spacers to stop rattling of lowered springs that some people mention occurs, i applied a bead of sikaflex "diagonally" around the top and bottom loops of my hfl-14 lovells springs. might work, might not.


Edited by livo74, 15 January 2017 - 10:18 AM.





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