13 replies to this topic

[Statler]

to the forums.

 

Sounds to me like the detent switch needs adjusting.

 

Drop the 3 bolts from the steering column to access it. 

[yel327]

Or the resistor wire is burnt out or open circuit.

[Bigfella237]

Agreed... just to expand on that, there are two wires from the ignition switch that power the coil, one supplies full battery voltage only when the key is in the start position, the other supplies a reduced voltage (around 8v if memory serves) when the key is in the IGN position.

 

The problem may be with the wiring, or it may be the ignition switch? Time for exploratory surgery...

[CI 0308]

Darren just to explain the resistor thing, when you start the car and engage the starter motor you also put power +12v to the coil, when you release the key, the switch down the column stops powering the starter solenoid but continues to power the coil via a resistor that drops the voltage down to around 6v, so in effect for starting you have a nice healthy spark at the plugs and a reduced spark one the car is running. as the other poster mentioned it may also be the switch needs adjusting.

Sorry Andrew we posted at the same time !!!

[Bigfella237]

No worries CI, I'm usually on the wrong end of that myself! The more information the better I say!

 

Darren, in earlier times there used to be only one wire from the switch and a white ceramic ballast resistor mounted on the coil itself, then the battery voltage for startup was provided by the second spade terminal on the starter solenoid itself directly to the (+) side of the coil.

 

Later, they must have figured out they could save a buck by having a resistance in the wiring harness instead.

 

Your other alternative is to bypass the factory wiring altogether and swap the coil out for a 12v model, you normally need to do this when converting to an electronic ignition system anyway.

[gtrboyy]

Was thinking either fusible link wire or now has hei instead of points.

[VDO]

Def sounds like the coil ballast resistor.... open circuit.

[EunUCh]

^ yep , it should go to the ign. switch plug on the switch on the column , it should be joined to another big wire , when you pull the plug off the ign. switch it lives between the yellow and big tan wire and the pink wire has " resistance do not cut" printed on it ,from memory it will 

need crimping back in place as it does not solder that well ?

[mick_in_oz]

The yellow and pink wires come from different places on the ignition switch, both these wires are joined together at the wiring harness connector that the engine harness plugs into, this connector is usually located in the engine bay near the brake booster and wiper motor, or a bit further over.

 

With the engine harness unplugged and a volt meter handy, if you put the ignition switch to the run position you should measure 12Volts at the connector (where the yellow and pink wires join), I suspect this test will show no voltage, and this is what you need to repair, and if you put the ignition switch to the cranking position there will also be 12Volts available.

 

The above mentioned 8Volts due to the resistor wire (the pink one) will measure 12Volts with the coil etc unplugged as there is no current flow through this wire to create the voltage drop, the 8Volts can be measured while everything is connected and the engine running happily.

[Bigfella237]

Bear in mind that if this wire has been disconnected deliberately, it may have already been bypassed by persons unknown, maybe because it had already failed, or maybe to get battery voltage to the coil?

 

Either way, I wouldn't be simply reattaching it without further investigation.