64 replies to this topic

[LJ RB30]

OMFG!! Yep that's a bit more than lint dust!!

Must admit I had a weird loss of pressure when I got the RB going.

Turned out that I hadn't braised the pick up to the flange that bolts to the block when I made the sump & pickup many years ago 😵😜
Car was thrown together as a roller & moved states & a couple of years later my " must do that!!" List was forgotten 😩😩
No damage done thank frOck! 😁😁

Glad to see you found your problem before too much major damage!

But yeah not fun cleaning every bit of that out!!

[koalasprint]

Thanks to everyone who chipped in with their advice. It took a lot of hours cleaning out the trillion pieces of very fine fibers. It also took a few dollars in gaskets, permaseal, oil, filters and a new set on conrod bearings. But I did put together a nifty cost effective oil priming tool. I want to share this with you all. It works a treat, no need to pack the oil pump, just normal lubrication of moving parts when you assemble your pump. Less than $30.

 

https://youtu.be/cZeePYvLf1E

 

The adapter is made from an old oil filter. I soldered mine but MIG or braising would probably be better. PVC tubing was $2.45 from Clark Rubber. The 12v pump was $ 13.20 on ebay. The other tubing I had laying around. Make sure everything is clean because the oil is not filtered and is going straight into the galleries. A stronger pump would likely pull from the sump, but this one wasn't strong enough. It does the job though and no need to pack the pump with vasoline. 

[Shiney005]

Looks good. I'll be knocking one up for sure.

[koalasprint]

Finally now running with (really) good oil pressure and no leaks. I followed the instructions from TK on performance prepping a Holden oil pump(twice, the first one i wasn't able to get the gasket faces flat and it leaked). Here is a link to the modifications if you're keen.

https://www.aussiev8...ance-use-7.html

 

I will use that pump instead of the JP HV pump I started with.

 

So here is the final result.

 

https://youtu.be/LwA0rT-GCkE

 

PS, Let me know if you need a JP high volume oil pump.

 

Cheers, Steve.

[koalasprint]

I hope the author doesn't mind. It's a great piece of work. hopefully my copy and paste works.

 

Hopefully TK doesn't mind, I have reproduced his original post below with new links to the photos in case the original pics are gone. Admin, please edit or delete as necessary...

Originally Posted by TK383

For those that are into the old holden V8's I thought I'd show you how to prep an oil pump properly to turn a bit of a turd into a good thing.


Didn't bother with taking before pics, I reckon the after pics are plenty to work from.

Anyways, first up you gotta find a good housing, you want one that hasn't got too many scores around the outside of where the gears run or on the top & bottom faces of the gear area. They will all have some scores - they are old pumps, but so long as they are minor they'll be fine.

You'll also need an oil pump rebuild kit, which are still readily available (premier engine parts make them), a 3/4" welsh plug & a spring shim, kit includes new gears, new press in shaft, new relief valve & spring & gaskets.

Strip the pump, use a punch to knock out the old pressed in gear shaft & the oil bypass valve, remove the old relief valve & spring, unscrew the oil filter screw fitting (multigrips) & once the housing & top cover are back to bare castings clean em real good (I bead blast them).

Now they are clean it's time to start the mods, starting with the pump body.

Red arrows point to the sections I'm talking about.

The section on the out side of the pump housing next to where the bypass valve was gets layed back & blended in to ease the flow from the gears into the cover, the oil gallery off to the side gets opened up to slightly larger than the matching gallery in the cover - stock they have a large step in the wrong spot that impedes flow:



Next I turn the pump body over & radius the oil gallery at the top of the picture, they have a sharp edge here from the factory & that is the pressure feed to the block.
While I'm there there is a section (lower arrow) of pump that partially covers the pickup gallery that feeds the pump, if you stick the bare pump body on the block you can see it, grind that shit to a straight edge rather than the bump & blend it in:



Now the top cover, the arrow is pointing to the feed from the gears up to the filter, it's a sharp edge usually, radius it real good:



Next is the areas that feed to & from the oil filter, the one on the right is the feed to the filter, it's a prick to get into, but you have to take off all the sharp edges & radius them, as well as laying back where it feeds into the groove - use a small oval or round cutter to get in there.
The feed back to the pump body from the filter is in the middle, this is where the filter threaded adaptor screws in, right down the bottom there is the drilling back to the pump body, it's sharp edges with a nasty turn, lay the turn back up into the threads a bit & knock off the sharp edges etc:



Next you get out the emery paper, CRC & flat surface & lap the gasket faces flat - I use 100 grit paper. They are usually quite a long way out so it can take a little while to get them flat.
Then out with a small piece of 120 grit & break the sharp edges in the gear area as well as giving the areas around the gears a light sand to knock off any high spots from scoring etc.

Now everything gets a real good wash & blow off with compressed air to make sure there is no metal dust left anywhere.

Lay out everything on a bench & hold the pump body in a vice (not too tight) so you can knock in the new shaft, a bit of moly lube stops it galling when you hammer it in with a punch, it goes in untill the shaft is about 1mm below the face on the other side.
Next is a 3/4" welsh plug to block where the bypass valve used to be, knocked in with a bit of sealant - the bypass valve is there so that when ****s don't change the oil for 100,000k's & the filter blocks up the engine still gets oil through the filter bypass. It is not required unless you intend to let your filter block up.
Then the gears go in, coated liberally in moly lube so the pump primes up quickly:



The gasket that goes between the body & top cover will need a little trim around the gallery where it was opened up, yes I sneezed when I was cutting it:



Now bolt the top cover on, I use permatex sealant as it does not squeeze out & block shit like silicon.

Next the relief valve gets fitted, along with a shim (which the arrow is pointing too), in this case the shim is .100" thick which will give 65-70spi oil pressure. I spin them up on the lathe out of alloy.
Lube the relief valve with some moly lube & push it in (should be smooth all the way down to the seat), the shim goes in the retaining screw/cap thingy, the threads & fibre washer get a smear of silicon, they have a habit of weeping with no sealant:



Last thing to do is trim the block to pump gasket to match where the body was ground:



Bingo, all done:





A pump prepped like this will outperform any aftermarket pump without overloading the pump drive like a hi-vol pump will.

[koalasprint]

Copy and paste into a word document?

[Shiney005]

Yep. Copy and paste into word works fine.

[koalasprint]

I got mine from the local wreckers. Cheaper and faster than flee bay.

 

A couple of things though. The welsh plug you need can vary in size. I didn't have the correct size so i had to re-install the filter bypass valve. Lucky i was careful removing it. The other thing... If you are going to re-surface like in the modification, don't go too crazy with it. The first one I did leaked oil because as I rubbed it down, I must have done it with a slight rocking motion. The second one I skipped that step and had no problem at all.

 

All up it works really well. Lots of oil volume and a small increase in pressure, but without loading up on the drive gears.

[r2160]

That red oil looks a little thick
. .