19 replies to this topic

[TOERUNNER]

The bonnet of my GTR has quite a lot of surface rust, when i treat it with  rust converter it does its job but the pitting is quite deep. my concern is that  this rust may come again as it is only really the surface of the rust that is treated . what are your thoughts on using HYDROCHLORIC ACID on the deep pitting as this removes all of the      rust and leaves shiny pitted metal,cheers                                                                                                                                     

Edited by TOERUNNER, 10 February 2017 - 04:55 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

Rod, if you use a seaweed disc on your grinder keep it as flat to the panel as possible & @ the speed you'd use a buff & if you can't get all the pitting you could use a brass wire wheel 1st. Apply the rust converter over night repeat the cleaning process the next day, wax & grease it well & apply a good quality epoxy etch primer, my recommendation would be sikkens ep epoxy etch, if you have any minor pitting you can fill over the epoxy. Wurth 2 pack bog is what I'd use personally it's not cheap but they're both brilliant products. & then you can use sikkens color build plus 2 k high build primer, you can put acrylic over them, but you'd be crazy not to go 2 pack. Gary

[madtoranajzedded]

This a new product grumpy.i always thought
you cant put bog over etch but can epoxy...

Is this some sort of new crossbreed lol

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 11 February 2017 - 03:15 AM.

[TOERUNNER]

thanks for the replies but what are your thoughts on using the hydrochloric acid to remove the rust first, then epoxy it etc, the acid works quick and would save a lot of wire brushing .                      Can the hydrochloric cause any problems?

[Lc69]

When you say seaweed disc, do you mean something like this?

 IMG_8711.PNG   136.2K   7 downloads

[grumpy xu1]

Yes Tony, but i buy the 3m disc's with the plastic backing plate. Scotch - B rite clean & strip DC disc is their terminology. Rodney i would worry about not getting rid of the acid completely, but the rust converter is an acid. If you wire wheel it 1st you won't have a sharp edge to damage the seaweed disc, makes them last a lot longer. Maz it's been on the market for nearly 20 years, it's a 2 pack epoxy, not a single pack, you shouldn't bog over the single pack. Once you have finished the repair, re epoxy it over the top to seal it off. Rod you'll easily strip the bonnet & treat in a day & re strip it the next. I'd then epoxy it & leave it till the next week end to do the bog work & re epoxy. Cover the car whilst it's in epoxy (after it's dry) in a flanelet sheet & it will protect it a lot. When you buy it in bulk say 4 litres of the epoxy + 2 litres of hardener it works out @ about $80 / litre @ trade + the appropriate thinners. Thinned @ 100 - 50 - 10% ad hardener to the ep, stir them together, then ad 10% of the mixed ammout thinners re stir put in your pot & prime. Simples, working time being in qld probably 20 - 30 minutes, you can buy different speed thinners. Gary

[madtoranajzedded]

Ah ok didnt know there was an etch epoxy.

Ive only known them as etch and epoxy singly

As you already know i dont do spray painting

Did have a play of it over 20 yrs ago on my 2

dr..still learning..




Cheers

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 11 February 2017 - 07:31 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

Maz, i have found it to be the best epoxy so far, so it's always my preference, they also do a single pack wash primer for use on aluminum like the honey pot, steering box ect. The wash primer is available in a pressure pack as well. Only downside is the lack of colours in the epoxy. But the colorbuild plus is available in about 7 colours so you can tint it, for the fussy restorer. You can use the epoxy in sikkens ep & then use the lesonal 2 pack system over it which is their cheaper brand, still good quality. I use to use a lot of the glasurit originally great product too & baslac is the cheaper version of glasurit. That's my preference, but at least use a epoxy etch & make sure it has anti rust properties, not all of them do. It basically chemicaly treats the steel to prevent the rust almost like galvanizing. I have stripped it of off damaged panels to check it works & it's incredible. Gary.

[madtoranajzedded]

Oh ok...i have protec 4110 epoxy primer

going to give it ago soon.i havnt bought the correct reducer but have the hardener as have some hok ru series thinner its like 3 yrs
old and bit uncertain to use it but i dont
think reducer changes its characteristists.

It should b okay i reckon ?

[grumpy xu1]

Maz, for the sake of $100 & possibly having an issue I'd just buy the right thinners, some of the protec stuff runs different thinners & hardener. So i would encourage you to get the right stuff & save any possible issue, may also save you money in the long run. I will admit maz, I'm not a big user of the protec paint, so either check out their website to see if it has anti rust properties & if you can bog over it. If you're stuck post up, the specs if you like, or a pm whatever suits. Gary

[madtoranajzedded]

Cool..thanks DJ.just had geezer of the
reducer carmaster also seen they have fast
normal and slow hardeners that used with the
Carmaster reducer.should i use the protec
4130 hardener or change.as i dont know if its
slow or fast etc.weather been erratic down
here,one day its 27 the nxt 15 lol.it
doesnt know what its doing..


Cheers maz

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 12 February 2017 - 08:45 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

Ah maz, wouldn't it be their thinners that's slow or fast, not the hardener ?

[grumpy xu1]

Bomber they'd have slow, medium & fast wouldn't they ? Just go medium easy as.

[madtoranajzedded]

Haha yeah sorry i done a typo.

grumpy...look it up mate

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 12 February 2017 - 09:15 PM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Your right.i overthink everything DJ.. lol.


Now you know why my cars taking too long as
Im worried to leave it in epoxy etc or do
any bodywork.i sorta wanted to do a coat then
Within 72hs hit it with high build to save
rubbing in hard to get areas..

Im too bloody fussy haha

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 12 February 2017 - 09:27 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

I would sand everything automotive between the etch, hi build & colour. I'm not nor will I ever be a fan of wet on wet ever. It is a pain sanding everything maz & that's why a paint job costs the money. Maz cover it between coats ect ( once it's definitely dry ) with flanelet sheets. You can over think mate. Easiest thing for you to do is just buy the products that go together & mix everything by the instructions & use them by the instructions, and learn as you go. & ask if you don't know about something, Gary.

[madtoranajzedded]

Im not using etch bud.only epoxy so i can use
filler over it.
i have been told using protec you dont have
to sand it unless you leave it longer than 3
days as whats written on the data sheet.

Saves a heap of time.but most of it will b
sanded then another coat put on as wont be
painted for ages.but i will paint the bay
under guards floor etc..