Jump to content


Photo

Bolting/welding an LX diff into thin air


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 Vick

Vick

    Grumpy old man

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,188 posts
  • Name:Vick
  • Location:Vic
  • Joined: 19-November 12

Posted 06 March 2017 - 07:26 PM

The short story is I am doing some welding for an ex-forum member. The entire floor from the firewall to the beaver panel has to be removed. The sills may will probably have to go as well. This will be a competition car (maybe not competitive though), so it will be a six point roll cage welded to a 3/4 chassis with an LX body attached. So structural integrity of the shell isn't important. Where I would like to go next is the removal of the factory rear suspension and adjacent floor area. Once removed, we won't have anywhere to bolt a diff to. The car needs to be a roller at minimum at all times and if possible, drive-able as well.

 

Option 1: Use the LX banjo diff with the factory rear arms and make some brackets to weld to something. Remember, the floor and sills won't be an attachment option.

 

Option 2: The owner has the complete rear suspension and diff from an HQ/WB commercial. As the mount points for the leaf springs will be parallel to each other, it may be a simpler option.

 

But

 

what is the distance from the outside of one spring to the outside of the other? If it's wider than the inside of the B pillar, it could be very awkward.

 

Option 3: Insert idea here.

 

Discuss.

 



#2 Bomber Watson

Bomber Watson

    Not nearly as smart as Lazarus

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 20,176 posts
  • Name:DJ
  • Location:Rockhampton, the exact center of my own TINY universe. Also the home of the worlds longest location.
  • Car:Mixed fleet of Taxi's and hair dresser mobiles.
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 06 March 2017 - 08:12 PM

Trailer axle?

 

Not drive able obviously but simple and cheap/free.



#3 Vick

Vick

    Grumpy old man

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,188 posts
  • Name:Vick
  • Location:Vic
  • Joined: 19-November 12

Posted 06 March 2017 - 10:08 PM

That's not a bad idea. In fact, that gives me an idea for a variation on option 2 that would only require a couple of bits of scrap angle and possibly make it drive-able.

 

 

 

NB:

 

It only needs to be drive-able for the sakes of getting it onto a trailer, up a steep driveway etc. It won't need to travel any great distance or faster than walking pace.



#4 Lazarus

Lazarus

    Lazarus

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,591 posts
  • Name:Mark
  • Location:Central QueensIand
  • Car:UC Sedan
  • Joined: 28-May 13

Posted 07 March 2017 - 02:04 PM

Go down to Bunnings and ask for some 50mm skyhooks.



#5 wot179

wot179

    Green Eggs and Spam

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,760 posts
  • Name:Jesus Bloody Christ
  • Location:Sunny Santa Maria
  • Car:Goon
  • Joined: 06-February 09

Posted 07 March 2017 - 05:01 PM

Drop it onto a sheet of 25mm plywood with rollerskates tekscrewed under it.

#6 Vick

Vick

    Grumpy old man

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,188 posts
  • Name:Vick
  • Location:Vic
  • Joined: 19-November 12

Posted 07 March 2017 - 06:20 PM

Go down to Bunnings and ask for some 50mm skyhooks.

 

After what you posted in this thread:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-maths-problem/

 

I really shouldn't expect any better than that from you.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users