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T-5 into LH/X/UC


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#1 Statler

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 07:35 PM

NOTE: This is NOT the only way to do this. It is merely 1 way.

 

Ok, so you've decided that you want that extra gear. The Borg Warner T-5 is a pretty common option these days. These boxes can be found in almost everything around the world. BMW's, Mercs, Mustangs & even the local Commodore & Falcons.

 

While the gearbox is basically the same for all applications, the input shaft length, bell housing,(both determine how far the box sits from the engine)  gear sets & rear extension housings (determines where the gear shifter sits & speedo drive output)  are different to suit the application.

 

So which gearbox should i buy?

 

Here is where it gets tricky. First you will need a bell housing to fit your engine. The most common option is the Commodore gear box. Besides being plentyfull, they also have the 'turbo' bolt up pattern. Using this box saves mixing/matching clutches & if you already have a V8 with the Turbo bolt pattern it will fit with simple tunnel mods. I will get to that bit.

 

A lot of people are using the local Ford T-5's with aftermarket bellhousings (approx $8-900) which will put the gearshift in the correct position. I believe Dellow & Mal Wood have these 'kits' in stock. Personally i don't understand why anyone would drop $900 on a bell housing instead of $100 on a rear extension but hey ..... it's your money. :)

 

So here's what i done on a shoe string budget.

 

I picked up this nasty old Commodore T-5. It was hanging off the back of a 304, both of which had been under water. I initially only wanted the fly wheel & b/h bolts but for $60 i wasn't complaining.

 

intakemanifoldt-5004.jpg

 

Quick trip to my gearbox guru for a complete rebuild & this is what returned.

 

purple059.jpg

 

We had to change the input shaft due to wear on the hard facing. Another stock Commodore input shaft was installed. I also sourced a rear extension housing from a XF Ford & had it fitted. It's a straight bolt on. This brought the gearshift about 40mm from the stock position & the speedo drive output is on the drivers side. 

 

The main concern when fitting the T-5 is where the rear of the box ends up. It comes close to hitting on the floor x-member (under the front seat bolts) which is a structural member. Yes you can box this section in with steel plate but it is up to your engineer to pass the mod. By using the XF rear extension there is NO cutting of this x-member, which keeps even the most fussy engineer happy. :)

 

Here you can see where the rear extension sits. I had to fold down the lip slightly to get the threaded part through. Stupid short throw shifters!

 

sales085.jpg

 

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Gearbox up & in. 

 

sales072.jpg

 

I should also mention that before i could fit the box, i Had to bolt the bell housing & clutch assembly in first. 

 

sales066.jpg

 

With the box in & bolted up it was time to move on to the the x-member.

A trip to the steel merchants & about $28 later i returned with some 40 x 40 x 4 angle & a meter of 50 x 25 RHS. Little bit of cutting, measuring, cutting, measuring, welding ....... did i say measuring? & a squirt with some black paint & ta da!

 

sales222_zps87d09ad0.jpg

 

sales223_zpsba0fe401.jpg

 

Using 40 x 4 angle i put the cross bar as high as i could. The 'drop' in the center worked out to 27mm. Because i am using the XF rear gearbox mount all that was required is a simple mount plate with 1 hole. 

 

Now to fill the hole in the tunnel for the shifter.

Because i knew what seal i was using, i just made up a cover plate from 1.2mm zinc & welded it in. . It took maybe 3hrs from start to finish. I made certain that the console would still fit before welding anything. 

 

transtunnel2_zps55b152a0.jpg

 

transtunnel1_zpsbf97a683.jpg

 

Next was the speedo.

 

The Commodore used an electronic speedo sensor at the gearbox end. I simply unscrewed the electronic bit but kept the mechanical drive parts.

speedodrive_zps3a091ad9.jpg

 

Around $80 later & a brand new speedo cable arrived from Autocables. Screwed on 1 end & pushed on the other, the speedo works. You may need to play with the speedo gear to get your speedo reading accurately. 

 

The only other 'modification' i made was a gearshift shaft which is 1" forward. I don't think this is necessary & i will swap it out for a straight shaft next time the console is out.

 

So there it is. Interior back in. 5 forward gears to play with & it didn't break the bank.

purple%20dash%20l_zpsk2qdogdy.jpg

 

Happy motoring. :)

 



#2 76lxJAS

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 08:26 PM

nice work, have been thinking of doing this,,.

is there no mods to be done to the tunnel for clearance???



#3 Vick

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 10:15 PM

So what engineering is required for your custom x-member? Just common sense?



#4 Statler

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 12:03 AM

nice work, have been thinking of doing this,,.

is there no mods to be done to the tunnel for clearance???

No. 

 

 

So what engineering is required for your custom x-member? Just common sense?

I think you are confusing the gearbox x-member with the substructure x-member. 



#5 Vick

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 12:45 PM

So a custom gearbox x-member doesn't need engineering then? I've never needed to find out, which is why I'm asking.



#6 76lxJAS

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 01:02 PM

What would be the clutch set up, cable?
Does the hydraulic conversion fit with these?

#7 76lxJAS

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 01:21 PM

Also whas the difference in ford holden and v8 and v6 gearboxes?

#8 Statler

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 05:15 PM

So a custom gearbox x-member doesn't need engineering then? I've never needed to find out, which is why I'm asking.

I guess that depends on the D.O.T in your state but i can't see why. It would probably be inspected at the same time as the rest of the conversion just to make sure that you haven't made it out of old bed frames. 

 

 

What would be the clutch set up, cable?
Does the hydraulic conversion fit with these?

The Commodore bell housing accepts a cable clutch. I used a UC cable (around $80 new & still available) with a modified pedal. The pedal feel is very good compared to the old hydraulic systems or rat traps. 

The pedal hook can be used from the Commodore manual clutch pedal. It is a lot longer than the Torana hook (which is also getting hard to find & expensive) but it's a simple matter of cut & weld the hook on. 

 

There are plenty of guys using the hydraulic throwout bearings in their T5's. 

 

 

Also whas the difference in ford holden and v8 and v6 gearboxes?

Gear sets, input shafts, bell housings & rear extensions. 



#9 76lxJAS

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 05:20 PM

So I guess it's best to by a v8 gearbox if doing this mod for a 355 stroker?

#10 Statler

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 06:47 PM

That would be preferable because you would have the V8 bell housing & input shaft. 



#11 aussie4speeds

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 01:23 PM

hi guys the best way to do it is with a mustang box no floor cutting at all it all fits in like original you use a VS V8 box use a world class comaro input shaft which is 167 mm long then get a mustang tail from the states modify 5th gear with a mustang sleeve use a mustang speedo gear get the bell housing from Dellow Automotives it a better cleaner set up you wont kill your car and dont have to cut the sub frame of your torana  like most guys have done at all .....

 

 



#12 purrlx

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 04:20 PM

This was a budget build of how to do it, not buy heap of new parts from the states, dellow etc.



#13 aussie4speeds

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 07:46 PM

thats fine if you want to ruin the sub frame of your car and use a box that is way to long and have to move the console down to fit the shift  to center off 

i was trying to help but if you want to do it on the cheap EL box would be good to use and get a super T10 bell housing and re drill it to suit the ford pattern of the box but you will have to space the cross member with steel spacers and put a tongue in the middle to take the mount cut the shaft 50 mm to suit and  your almost done ...



#14 Peter UC

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 11:50 AM

Did you even read the thread? It states that by using the Commodore T5 and then putting the shorter Falcon rear extension on it there is no cutting required and no special parts need to be bought. Of course this only works when you have a turbo pattern engine already.






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