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Calling Bomber..........Mikecatts.....


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#1 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 04:39 PM

Hi gents..i have a couple questions in your particular area of expertise..how long do
you have before sheet steel starts rusting
up.the weather is going to b good here for
another 7days etc.. ive just blasted the
plenum area and have por top coat to brush
in there and have fusor 108b ill use to seal scuttle panel.. with less spot welds.....

Second q is i have paint stripped bout 90%
of front half to help the compressor blasting
should i keep going blasting or just do
Plenum first.just worried it will rust up
if i dont cover it...frOck the shit goes
flying lol...

Cheers maz
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#2 Potta

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 07:44 PM

I'm not an expert but pretty sure you should get something on it asap unless you want to do it all again.

 

It might be fine for a while but its a risk.



#3 EunUCh

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 08:25 PM

No expert but i think you find that bare metal should be pretty well covered with something straight away after clean up ?

 

There is always moisture in the air , not much , but it is there , simple test , (don't do it on car) ,just wipe  bare  metal with a damp cloth over a freshly cleaned up and check it out an hour later ?



#4 71xu1

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 08:30 PM

As said cover it ASAP it begins reacting with the environment straight away, especially with abrasive blasting because you increase the surface area and can be blowing moist air onto the panel if your moisture trap is not working 100%.

#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 08:46 PM

Mmmm nice bare metal. 
 
My opinion, for what its worth. 
 
The plenum get the POR in fairly quick. 
 
The rest, get some epoxy on it asap. Just do it. 
 
THAT SAID. 
 
When I was doing some cashys for a boatyard, we did three 50 odd foot steel hull trawlers in a row, I was doing weekend work for them, the product we were using acutally stipulated to let the surface flash rust. 
 
So we blasted it one weekend, came back the next weekend to a nice red oxide colored substrate, ran a broom over it then hit it with said epoxy. 
 
Have not heard back about any issues. 
 
On a similar note I have definitely blasted stuff at work, then been moved onto another job, come back two weeks later, have a look, go frOck it and just throw some epoxy down on it then top coat. 5-6 years and no signs of any issues. 
 
So what im saying in a long way here is I suppose... If it was mine I would get the epoxy over everythign Asap, but alas if for whatever reason you cannot do this and it starts to discolor a bit then I also personally would not be to concerned. 
 
It also really depends on how far from the coast you live. I can strip a bit of metal and leave it in my backyard in the elements for 6 weeks and it wont be affected nearly as much as if a mate did the same thing for a week 40km away at the coast, so that plays a huge part to.
 
Not sure if I helped or made it harder lol, anyway. 
 
Cheers. 


#6 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 12:43 AM

No no ☺ Havnt made it harder.its just that
i dont know what the heck im doing lol.

As scuttle panel is off on first coat can
get right in those corners no probs at all
and was going to do it to where i have
cut at the ends then glue and spot scuttle
on then on second coat i can seal the
scuttle to the plenum but coming back from
trade aid in the uterus im looking at the cartridge thing what are those 2 red thingys
with it ..are they the plungers...
before i knew it i realised the silly bitch
behind the counter never gave me the gun (tom usually serves me and would of told me) but i didnt know as never used it....anyway
was too late to turn round was shut today
and not open mon.soo i gotta leave it till
then tues..

I usually blow dust then wipe with wax &
degreaser but how do i clean it when shes
all roughed up .cant wipe it as rag sticks
to it like shit on a blanket..

I have no concrete outside of shed which
would b handy .just blue metal and slopes
downward and wouldnt get the her back in if
i was to wash it...

What do you normally do DJ ..

Im inland a little a k away from the derwent
river which turns salty 16 k downstream so
the atmo is not bad.parts of the car have
been bare metal bout a week with no rust in
site.that paint stripper is messy shit but
seem panel isnt scratched i cant see it
rusting for ages.i even used water to wipe
down at end and shes all good
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 12 March 2017 - 01:03 AM.


#7 S pack

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 07:47 AM

Maz, I reckon those red things in the cartridge tips would be to help mix the two part adhesive.



#8 71xu1

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 09:46 AM

Exactly what they are for.

#9 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 02:14 PM

I didnt know what the bloody hell they were
at first 😅..i think its over kill for the
scuttle as i was trying to find just a
sealer like what they used.thought sikaflex
would have one compatible.i just asked her
and thats what they had ..i will use it and
on the dr skin aswell.

When i was in the marine fibreglass shop to
purchase the por with a little solvent
they had 3 rolls of that scothbrite stuff or
whatever it is.were classed 1000,600.and
green 320 grit.i got some green.

Was going to just use that just on the
stripped panels wipe then epoxy..
The hard areas under guards near seams and
tight spots will b blasted..would it hurt if
i use it in plenum and the like to take edge
off the grittiness of the panel .i reckon i
could then wipe it the use w&g remover then?Attached File  1489292116372-1611304081.jpg   659.89K   2 downloads

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 12 March 2017 - 02:17 PM.


#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 06:19 PM

Your much better off not having wax/grease etc on the job before blasting, then avoiding touching it. 

 

That way you dont have to wax and grease remove the surface before you paint. 

 

At work I just hit everything with a strong air blower then shoot it. Maybe a run over with a banister brush/broom on bigger jobs whilst blowing it down to get the fine dust off. 

 

Cheers. 



#11 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:10 PM

Ok yeah this is after blasting to mainly just
get the dust off..i should just wash it in
the shed lol and stop frOcking around hey..

The blaster i have 20 gal cheapo aint working
too well..seems when its full it pours out
the nozzle doing frOckall then it has a
breather and works a little better with
little coming out then pours out again
doing bugger all..
does that every say 5 secs...when its got buggerall in tank thats when its working best
It doesnt do those rests whatever its doing
To tell you how affective it is iveused 18kg
just to do around headlight in enginebay.
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#12 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:13 PM

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#13 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:23 PM

This is how shes setup .only have 11.5 cfm
but that doesnt seem to b the problem.
Something to do with that stoopid tank

When shes near empty i shake tank to get last
of it out ..like i said this is when it works
best..
If i put less in tank does same thing.its
sooo unprodutive how it is atm..its goving
me the shit lol...

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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 13 March 2017 - 04:42 PM.


#14 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 06:44 PM

You need to throttle the grit feed with the ball valve coming out the bottom of the tank.

Will run like shit wide open.

Start with that valve all the way off then just bunp it a tiny bit at a time untill its running nicely.

#15 SmacT

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 07:02 PM

Bloody hell - all this time, as soon as I have something bare metal, I've been pedantic about covering it asap. So no need, eh? I'll relax a bit (not that I need to bare metal much more).

#16 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 07:11 PM

Oooooh.....frOck YEAH..WOOOOOHOOO...😀

Thanks a million Bomber.you have made my
day bud..

Now she frOcking mwa machine...yeeeeeeaaah

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 13 March 2017 - 07:35 PM.


#17 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 March 2017 - 11:18 AM

SmacT, its certainly not bad practice to cover everything asap.




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