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LJ heater fan blade removal and resistor?


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#1 _brendan_h_

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 03:41 PM

How does this fan blade come of the motor shaft? seems like im going to break something trying to get it off.
I'm also trying to wire up the fan motor, after a few blow fuses i worked out i needed some sort of resistor? Anyone have any more info on a retro fit and wiring diagram for it?

Thanks.



#2 Indy Orange

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:52 PM

Should be a circular clip holding the fan on,put a screwdriver in the clip gap and turn it opening the clip.There should be a resistor in the heater box.

#3 hanra

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:57 PM

The resistor is only for lower speeds. Straight 12v on high speed. So if it still blows you have issues.

#4 _brendan_h_

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 06:32 PM

i don't have the resistor at all.

as for the fan blade, ive opened up the clip but its like its a press fit onto the motor shaft.



#5 Indy Orange

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 06:58 PM

Once you remove the clip give it a spray with penetrene or CRC ,hold the top of the shaft with locking pliers and work the fan upwards turning it while holding the shaft.Then when you get it high enough you can get the locking pliers under the fan and hold the shaft that way whilst working it upwards.Go easy and try not to break it .Thats how I got mine off.

#6 grumpy xu1

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:31 PM

Loctite freeze & release spray is brilliant stuff. Aswell as bolt off.

#7 r2160

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:37 PM

The resistor is a coil of nichrome wire riveted to the metal plate that the fan is mounted to, high speed is 3000rpm, low speed is 1800 rpm



#8 _mikecatts_

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:03 AM

theres a little steel pin inside that holds the blade on.. Its tricky to get out.. Ive killed a couple trying to get off.. best to find a spare fan before you try.. The locking clip is to keep the shaft tight to the fan

Attached Files



#9 Indy Orange

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 01:02 PM

Wow never knew that Mike ,mine didn't have the pin,someone must not have bothered replacing that.Hope Brendan didn't kill it.

#10 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 08:34 AM

I have used a staple for that clip , if your stuck for something to use .



#11 _brendan_h_

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 06:48 PM

i did kill the pin, however i am confident it will still be ok, the blade is a bloody tight fit onto the shaft.

As suspected i am missing this resistor. does anyone know what can be done? kit from jarcar?



#12 flygtr028

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 01:15 PM

You need to make the fan removal tool. refer attachment

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#13 grumpy xu1

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 11:21 PM

No one has said if you are able to get a replacement resistor ? Does anyone know if you can, mine appears broken & I'd rather put in something new & decent if possible ! Gary.

#14 Lc69

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Posted 22 July 2017 - 08:07 AM

I ended up finding an original resistor in a second hand heater.

Before that I considered going down three paths.
Using a series of high wattage ceramic type resistors
Source the wire and make your own like the original one......some others have done this.
Buy a modern resistors on eBay for some other random car, and adapt it.

I decided on option three before I found the original resistor.
There was a heater build thread on here somewhere.

Edited by Lc69, 22 July 2017 - 08:08 AM.


#15 grumpy xu1

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Posted 22 July 2017 - 02:57 PM

From the little I've read on nichrome wire, it seems that if you measure the gauge in mm because there's a chart for it & measure the exact length, then wind the coil not quite such a small diameter it should disapate the heat quicker & slow down the weakening process. But i haven't used it before so it may not be correct, can anyone confirm yes or no on that, also says that all the gauge sizes are a specific resistance so you only need to measure the gauge & get the same size & length ????? Gary.

#16 _brendan_h_

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 07:07 PM

No one has said if you are able to get a replacement resistor ? Does anyone know if you can, mine appears broken & I'd rather put in something new & decent if possible ! Gary.

 


YES! i used a 2ohm shell wirewound resistor, they say its rated at 100watts, which is more then enough. i think i worked it out to be 40 somthing watts was required so the 100 is more then enough. while i have no long term test to go off as i haven't got everything stalled properly yet, i am confident it will be fine for me, i got a running voltage of about 7volts using 2 ohms. maybe a 1.5ohm would be ideal, depending on how fussy you want to be.
i could only find orange color and indented to mount it in the cab next to the motor where you might be able to see it, so i sand blasted it and lightly painted it black, pretty sure it should fit in the stock location with a bit of glue to hold it down and running a bit of wire down.


http://www.ebay.com....353.m1438.l2649


Edited by brendan_h, 25 July 2017 - 07:10 PM.


#17 grumpy xu1

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 08:11 PM

Excellent Brendan thanks for your help, Gary.

#18 EunUCh

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 08:55 PM

there was a bit of talk about the resistor a while ago , sadly some of the pictures are gone but from a vague memory it was wire wound air core and it lived in the air flow of the fan , never had to deal with one but i would be inclined to use the same diameter nichrome wire of the same length and fix/replace/make one of aroundout the same dimensions , bit of playing around but that's all part of fun ? , no solder , rivets.



#19 grumpy xu1

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 09:16 PM

Yeah, it is secured each end by a pop rivet as you say. I should measure the diameter and length & make a new 1 from nichrome as you state, i imagine if that's all that's involved than it should be fairly basic to do, hopefully. Gary.

#20 Lc69

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 07:43 PM

Just go easy when riveting the insulation board back into the heater, its soft and can crack/tear under pressure.

#21 r2160

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 10:22 PM

As I said earlier . . .

 

The resistor is a coil of nichrome wire riveted to the metal plate that the fan is mounted to, high speed is 3000rpm, low speed is 1800 rpm

 

I used an optical tachometer to measure this, and adjusted the length of the nichrome wire to match these speeds.


Edited by r2160, 25 August 2017 - 10:23 PM.


#22 grumpy xu1

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 11:14 PM

& did you by chance measure the length of the nichrome wire & diameter then Glenn ? I've put this job of for a while, so if you have, I'd be really happy if you would share you findings, Gary.

#23 r2160

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Posted 26 August 2017 - 08:25 AM

Unfortunately not. What I did do was use the optical tacho and basically trimmed the wire until I got the speed to match what it used to be. I wish I had now . . . sorry

 

If you were keen, and you have a model helicopter flying club near you (there are a number in qld) the serious guys have an optical tacho that you might be able to persuade them to give you a hand with.

 

I bought a roll of .9mm nichrome wire off ebay to do it.

 

I hope that helps



#24 S pack

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Posted 26 August 2017 - 09:41 AM

Unfortunately not. What I did do was use the optical tacho and basically trimmed the wire until I got the speed to match what it used to be. I wish I had now . . . sorry

 

If you were keen, and you have a model helicopter flying club near you (there are a number in qld) the serious guys have an optical tacho that you might be able to persuade them to give you a hand with.

 

I bought a roll of .9mm nichrome wire off ebay to do it.

 

I hope that helps

Disconnect the fan wiring from the resistor and measure the resistance with a multi meter if you have one. 

 

I remember seeing a chart somewhere on the net that has the resistance figures for a set length of nichrome wire for it's given gauge.

Shouldn't be hard to work out the total length of .9mm nichrome wire required to make the resistor.


Edited by S pack, 26 August 2017 - 09:42 AM.





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