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Heater hoses to engine


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#1 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 04:07 PM

Hi gents.just put heater box in and unsure
if bottom hose on heater box goes into the
Top of water neck.

Cheers maz
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#2 S pack

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 04:26 PM

Hi gents.just put heater box in and unsure
if bottom hose on heater box goes into the
Top of water neck.

Cheers maz
attachicon.gif20170705_151140.jpg

Doesn't really matter as it won't have any noticeable effect on the thermal efficiency of the heater core.

I would connect the lower hose from the heater core to the nipple on the water pump and the upper hose on the heater core to the nipple on the thermostat housing.



#3 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 04:50 PM

Thanks Dave just changed them over.blew
me out when taken top bung off neck no water
came out till cracked the cap.

Bloody freezing down here..brrrrrrrr!!!

#4 StephenSLR

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 04:13 PM

It probably doesn't matter because it's a pressurised closed system but I'd be inclined to connect the 'out' from the water pump to the inlet of the heater that fills the lower part of the heater first, that way as it fills, the water rises pushing the air out via the top.

 

s



#5 Bazza

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 04:47 PM

Hi

 

Here's what the good book says:

 

Cheers

 

Bazza

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#6 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 07:21 PM

Bugger.damn thing is working pretty good.

So water flows out of water neck and into

pump.

#7 StephenSLR

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 08:37 PM

Bugger.damn thing is working pretty good.

So water flows out of water neck and into pump.

 

From the diagram, the arrows indicate flow, it flows into the heater through the bottom hose (yellow) and out of the heater from the top hose (blue), so it goes from the pump to the bottom of heater. Pretty much how I thought it would, as mentioned above.

 

s


Edited by StephenSLR, 06 July 2017 - 08:37 PM.


#8 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 08:57 PM

I gotta go to spec savers.buggered if i
could seem them...

Thanks Stephen

#9 Bazza

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 09:14 PM

See below

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#10 grumpy xu1

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 10:42 PM

Hi gents, my thoughts would be that someone at gmh figured that the water pump would be the quickest place to be hot, therefore more comfortable quicker in winter. Obviously the water pump needs a stub drilled out if it's not already & the thermostat (cast iron housing) is early style with the fitting in the side, like 186 ect. You probably already knew, but if you didn't hopefully it helped. Gary.

#11 rodomo

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 11:03 PM

Water pump is the cold side, it's drawing the water through. Head gets hot first.

#12 grumpy xu1

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 12:33 AM

Oh crap, yeah you'd be right ! Thanks mate, Gary

#13 StephenSLR

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 09:05 AM

It doesn't really make much difference as the water circulates through the system rather quickly and if you're that cold you just have to wait till the thermostat opens before you'd notice.

 

s



#14 LHSL

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 12:46 PM

Has someone got a pic of an LJ thermostat housing? All the ones I have seen have two outlets to the right side similar to LH ones I suppose.
Thanks.

#15 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 01:30 PM

I have the same thermostat housing Phil in
the big job the top outlet hose was routed to
the manifold it just then exits manifold
and back to thermostat.some later models
Exit back of manifold then to heater then
long hose back to bottom inlet on housing.
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 July 2017 - 01:41 PM.


#16 S pack

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 05:58 PM

It doesn't really make much difference as the water circulates through the system rather quickly and if you're that cold you just have to wait till the thermostat opens before you'd notice.

 

s

Why would you have to wait for the thermostat to open? In the following installation diagram that Bazza has kindly posted the heater connections are both upstream of the thermostat.

Therefore the water pump will circulate water through the engine block and head to the heater core and back to the water pump without the thermostat being open.

 

post-257-0-25325500-1499323602.jpg



#17 StephenSLR

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:57 PM

Why would you have to wait for the thermostat to open? In the following installation diagram that Bazza has kindly posted the heater connections are both upstream of the thermostat.

Therefore the water pump will circulate water through the engine block and head to the heater core and back to the water pump without the thermostat being open.

 

If you read my comment properly, 'if you're that cold' i.e. icy conditions, the minimal radiant heat from the water pump wouldn't be enough to do its job to warm you up.

 

When the thermostat opens minutes later, then the real hot water starts flowing.

 

s


Edited by StephenSLR, 07 July 2017 - 06:58 PM.


#18 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 07:43 PM

You know the funny thing is is before i put
Heater back in is after id leave my joint
And traveled around 3-4 ks the temp guage
would go off the clock,now it sits on bout
190 which i know is still incorrect reading
But its working better than it was.

Discard oil temp its not earthed out properly
somehow.if i push on fascia she pops up to
about 30psi
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#19 StephenSLR

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 07:49 PM

You know the funny thing is is before i put Heater back in after id leave my joint  And traveled around 3-4 ks the temp gauge would go off the clock,

now it sits on bout 190 which i know is still incorrect reading But its working better than it was.

 

It makes perfect sense because you added another radiator to your cooling system. The heater is a miniature radiator that sits under your dash, the extra volume in the heater and two hoses, gives you more thermofluid to circulate through the engine.

 

You will notice it will cool even better if you switch the heater fan on, which will blow air through the heater, cooling your engine even more - may not be comfortable on a hot day though, lol

 

s


Edited by StephenSLR, 07 July 2017 - 07:57 PM.


#20 grumpy xu1

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 08:20 PM

Best thing about it is that you're also creating a bypass system, great if the thermostat ever decided to stick. Gary

#21 S pack

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 08:38 PM

If you read my comment properly, 'if you're that cold' i.e. icy conditions, the minimal radiant heat from the water pump wouldn't be enough to do its job to warm you up.

 

When the thermostat opens minutes later, then the real hot water starts flowing.

 

s

Radiant heat from the water pump? The water pump will be circulating the coolant that is quickly heating up in the engine through the heater core well before the thermostat opens.



#22 StephenSLR

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 08:48 PM

The water pump will be circulating the coolant that is quickly heating up in the engine through the heater core well before the thermostat opens.

 

You're right, my mistake. Thinking of a different system. It is Friday night after drinks, hahaha.

 

s


Edited by StephenSLR, 07 July 2017 - 09:01 PM.


#23 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 10:30 PM

Hmm she stays a little colder first thing now
as water bypasses the thermostat.

Wonder if putting the hoses to manifold
back on will help.she idles very low and
and half the time will stall even after 5 min.
with choke on 3 mins
but once warmed up propper.say 10 mins drive
goes up to 900 when stationary..she needs a service poor thing.

#24 StephenSLR

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 07:27 AM

Hmm she stays a little colder first thing now as water bypasses the thermostat

 

Check to see the thermostat is working, you can test them in boiling water.

 

s






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