15 replies to this topic

[Orange SS]

I'm just wondering at what point is chassis strengthening needed in an LX Hatch?
The bolt in kits seem like a good idea

[myss427]

I have a full chassis, I did it because I was requested to by the engineer for registering the car with a big block chevy. Not long after I got it engineered and registered, Warren Appleby had his 454 UC Torana registered without a chassis kit, the engineer changed his view after checking on warrens car as he new he was racing it a lot and had no cracking or visible twisting of the chassis.

 

Warrens car was driven quite regularly on the street and ran high nines at the track with slicks, so its really not needed for a tuff car, but one thing I do notice in mine is how tight it feels compared to other Toranas, only penalty is about 30-40 kgs of extra metal.

[Orange SS]

I am not putting a big power engine in by any means. Well at least for now anyway.

 

An early headed, hydraulic roller 355 with 410hp and 410lb-ft doesn't really justify the money for a chassis kit but I was interested how much better they handle with a chassis kit.

 

I am probably better off fitting a better front sway bar and stiffer springs/shocks rather than a chassis kit to get the handling a little better? Any advice will be appreciated.

[myss427]

Best way to go, remember the race cars of old just had extra welds and gussets, and they did fantastic with 400 horses.

[Redslur]

I have had a few 450+ torry set ups in recent years.  The Torry I have now has a chassis kit running a 450 hp 355.  I also had a 550+ hp engine prior to my new setup in the car. What I have found is that they keep the car straighter on acceleration and more stable on the track. Apart from that there is probably no real need as i have never had any real body flex issues without one. At your sort of power, I don't think one is necessary. A good thing though and glad I do have one.

[ozyozyozy]

After fitting a cage to mine i got better tyre wear on the track, also responds better to suspension changes.

Even with the cage i have had to repair cracks in the shell from time to time.
I have no doibt they would have had to make chasis repairs during there hey day of racing.

[cameron]

Seen those bolt-on kits back when Rod Hadfield first released them. They don't anything for torsional strength, they tie in the lwr rear trailing mounts but that's about it. Better to make up one piece plates to tie in from the radiator support panel back to the rear trailing mounts and then box it all in.

 

Cameron

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[myss427]

Wow some nice work there, nice to have a plasma cutter or water jet? Very neat, did mine 20+ years ago with an oxy cutter and grinder, took forever.

[Rockoz]

Back in the day the main problem in strength was the upper trailing arm mounts on the body.

Lots of people had them half tear off if they were lucky or completely if they werent.

[Toranamat69]

I've only ever seen the lower control arm brackets separate from the body not the uppers. I just had to weld mine as the lh side one was doing it.

[ozyozyozy]

I have cracked both rear lowers.
I stitched in my uppers
Also crack in the front rails at the top bend.
have elongated the holes of the rear trailing arm mounts on the body.

[BIG KEV]

I questioned my Engineer about a chassis kit and he said there was no need with a LS2 Motor but i ended up fitting a chassis link up because i wanted to 

[Rockoz]

I've only ever seen the lower control arm brackets separate from the body not the uppers. I just had to weld mine as the lh side one was doing it.

 

 

The race hatch shell I had had the uppers connected into the roll cage structure,

But no reinforcement into the lowers.

Panel beater friend had welded lots of uppers in over the years.

When he looked under the rear of the shell he even noticed the difference in the upper points.

Said it wasnt right.

[axistr]

 I'm running a bit over 500hp and 500lb of torque and I ripped off the lower left chassis control arm bracket from the floor. When I restored the hatch I made and profiled chassis extensions to connect with the lower mounts. The car was more ridged and handled noticeably better, and properly only added 1kg to the car weight. I reckon this is all you need for street driving and looks factory with no need to cut through the rear floor pans and no fowling with other chassis parts with the full chassis kits, and save money and 45kg in weight. For every 10kg weight loss you gain the equivalent in an extra 1.2hp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Toranamat69]

Sounds like I have some more welding to do around my top mounts :-)