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What's that noise, rattle elimination


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#1 jd lj

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 02:20 PM

Hi guy's,

I've been meaning to start this thread for a while with the aim of forum members helping each other in eliminating those annoying rattles etc and making our cars more enjoyable to drive. I assume that a lot of these noises will be a common problem for each torana model. So share what you found to be the problem and I'm sure that someone else is experiencing it to.

In my LJ Torana I had the following :

-Brake line to chassis rail vibration under the rear passengers floor. Squeeze securing brackets tighter, flare out prongs on the back of the brackets if they don't hold to the chassis rail tight enough or put a few sections of rubber hose on the brake line to insulate it from rattling against the chassis rail.

-Poor quality speed nut on the speaker to the parcel shelf. Obviously replace the speed nut with decent ones.

-Fuel tank vent line vibration against the back of the back seat. Where the sheet metal of the back seat panel has a flap bent over to hold the vent line fold this tighter or again use a bit of rubber hose as insulation.

-Fuel line to chassis rail under the brake booster if the rubber hose to the fuel pump was too short then the movement of the engine at idle was pulling on this. Use a longer section of rubber hose.

-When I put a heater hose bracket on the rear carb there wasn't enough length in the hoses and they were making the heater core knock inside the heater box. Move the bracket to the second carb. Note, I know that XU-1'S don't have a bracket on the third carb anyway, this was on my webers.

-The glove box lid can rattle if not adjusted correctly. Move lock striker so the glove box lid is held tight when closed.

-The front passenger seat locking brackets on the two door models can rattle if there's no passenger putting their weight against the back of the seat. Get a friend to cruise with you.

-There's an occasional vibration between the dash pad and the steel part of the dashboard. I haven't addressed this yet but I assume that over 40 or so years the fixing nuts may need tightening and some sort of thin padding between the two would help.

-There was a knock in the front end when braking to a stop from the old nolethane bushes stretching the holes in the upper control arms, the control arms have to be replaced or new bushes tack welded in place (temporary fix).

Obviously some of these are easily found and only started after making changes to something whilst working on the car. Others took a while to work out. The quieter the car gets the easier it becomes to pin point the next one.

#2 RallyRed

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 05:20 PM

good idea






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