199 replies to this topic

[Gatti]

Thats not that bad Matt.

Is that black paint or an bituminous product
on floor

 

It's black paint.

 

I think I'll strip, repair and paint the boot and the floors first to practice before starting on the body.

[rodomo]

The tank looks a bit spesh?

[Gatti]

The tank looks a bit spesh?

Yeah. It’s got an aluminum tank




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[grumpy xu1]

Here's how i would do it Matt, 1st ppe, you will need a good quality respirator safe with 2 pack "solvent paint", i have a sundstrom vary from around $100 - $170 (essential to have) long sleves & long pants. Closed shoes, hearing protection & a clear face shield. That's the boring part done !

Now I'd start with the removable panels, let's say it's the boot lid. Get some 80 grit free cut sandpaper & scratch the primer right up by hand, keeping your Palm flat & fingers together use circles. Put some masking tape all around the edge roughly 4 mm in from the edges to avoid the stripper rolling over the edge. Put the paint stripper on & smoothen it out with a paint brush. Cover with plastic lightly & allow it to do it's thing, obviously scrape it off when done with a paint scraper. Once all the paint on the top side is gone, remove the tape and wash down with gp thinners. Then use a 4" or 5" grinder with a clean and strip disc (seaweed disc) the smoothest you can get, i use 3m brand, but do not use a sanding disc. This will basically polish the steel ready for the etch, use a 2 pack epoxy etch primer with a chemical treatment & i can't remember what it's known as, if you do a panel each day off, it's not sitting around rusting. I'd do the body panels last & obviously go from top to bottom. As for the sills, floor pan, boot opening, engine bay & hard steel area's around the windows I'd get it sand blasted, don't use anything like metal shot though, use either glass, wallnut, garnet ect. & be prepared for a througher clean out after that, don't blast flat panels. That will get you started anyway. Gary.

[madtoranajzedded]

It's black paint.
 
I think I'll strip, repair and paint the boot and the floors first to practice before starting on the body.

Sounds like a plan..i agree.. rust first is
best place to start.first thing i done was
both floor pans primed then some more rusty
areas..

[madtoranajzedded]

Thanks gong .i always thought all gtrs
would have had the brake block hole on inner
rail as running booster hence why i mentioned
it on another thread.thanks for clarifying
that up..

Cheers maz

[S pack]

 the dash you have pictured will not be a 69-70-or 71 as its for a lj,,, 

 

Cheers gong

Hi John, AFAIK the backing plate for Matt's GTR dash is LC............the vertical slot is for the main harness plug for when the main backing plate is used on a warning lights dash with the blue mylar printed circuit.

 

[Gatti]

What do you guys think of the flares below?

 

Might be an easy option for me compared to cutting out and replacing the flared guards that are on it.

 

Not sure if they'd fit with the current flares on it though

 

[fx48_eh64]

I actually dont mind the flares as is, 

[Gatti]

I actually dont mind the flares as is, 

 

Yeah I'm still undecided.

 

I think with the right wheel and tyre combo so the rubber is wide enough to be inline with the outer edge of the guards then lower it so it sits down on the tyres and it would look good.

Edited by Gatti, 16 October 2017 - 03:20 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

I reckon leave the flares for the square torana's only !

[S pack]

What's the go with the blue wire Dave ??? 

Looks like an additional earth has been added.

[madtoranajzedded]

Flares are a no for me,but it doesnt matter
what i think.that red beast only has cheese cutters on back so i dont understand why its
been done when you can put same tire as that under the guard.i dont mind if its a racecar
With steel flares a little different to
yours but with humungus tires on some
delicious mawers...

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 17 October 2017 - 08:57 PM.

[Gatti]

The wheels that were o  the car in the 90's were delivered this week so I cleaned them up and put them on.

 

I actually think I'm now going leave the flares on it as I'll fit 15 x 7 and 15 x 8 wheels with big enough rubber to fill out the flares.

 

I'll then lower the car enough that it sits right down on the tyres. 

 

It won't be everyones cup of tea, but at least it will be a bit different to all the rest.

 

I'm thinking old school tough look.

 

I also took some better photos using my Canon Camera.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gatti]

I'm going to start on the inside of the boot first and then do the floors inside the car.

 

A bit of a newby question, but is the best way to clean of the surface rust to just use a drill with a wire wheel?

 

I'll then hit it with a coat of primer then a couple of coats of black paint.

 

 

 

Edited by Gatti, 22 October 2017 - 01:36 PM.

[Toranamat69]

I like it with the flares, big wheels and tank.  Definitely something a little different

[madtoranajzedded]

Id blast that boot Matt and wheel well
blasting will b the only way to bring that
up for epoxy..
will take friggen ages otherwise..
these are good on areas you can get at
and great for light rust.
 images (23).jpg   28.48K   11 downloads

[grumpy xu1]

Matt, as a trade qualified panel beater myself, i have mentioned that the best way for you to clean the floors is most probably to take it to a shop that does sand blasting using (garnet ect) failing that yes use the grinder with a wire cup wheel or a clean and strip disc ( seaweed disc ) & you must use use epoxy etch primer if you don't want the rust to come back. Have a look at my previous post & you should get a better idea, Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

If you need a part number of a 3m 4" clean and strip disc ( seaweed disc ) like maz mentioned above but to suit a grinder not a drill & i can get 1 & post it the blasting is the best way & if you don't want it going in anywhere, buy some blast tape & fit it over the holes before it goes to the shop, because you're removing all off the crap from the steel, it's then in really good condition, but prone to flash rust fast, epoxy etch must be put on as quickly as possible. It will be cheaper for you to blast say engine bay, inside & boot all at once, and then next time do the floor pan, sills & window jams in 1 hit. Hope this helps you out Gary.

[fx48_eh64]

I find that the 7 1/2 ich strip and clean discs are much better than the smaller ones,  use them on a variable speed grinder/ polisher  runs them fairly slow, a 4 inch grinder in my opinion is way to fast and will tear to shreds if you hit an edge to hard.

I strip a whole car with the bigger ones and only used 2 discs,  also another tip is to use them on there edge,  like you would with a cutting disc, its slower  but if you use them like you would a grinding disc they will flex and break if not careful.

 

I used these ones 

http://www.ebay.com....uIAAOSwImRYhtQK

 

Also i really dig them wheels with the flares

 

 

[Potta]

What a difference some fat wheels make

[LJ RB30]

Must admit I'm not a fan of flares on these but i gotta say those tyres do make them look pretty good!

[Gatti]

Started collecting parts for the old girl and thought I’d grab parts that might get rare during my build as they pop up.

First up I scored a grille for it.

I’ve also bought some headlight surrounds, but they’ll be delivered next week.




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Edited by Gatti, 02 November 2017 - 07:32 PM.