199 replies to this topic

[Gatti]

What do you guys usually do with the wiring?

 

I'm thinking I'll pull it all out but keep it, especially the connectors etc, so it can be re-wired in the future.

 

Just want to get it out of the way so I can start cleaning up the engine bay etc

Edited by Gatti, 04 November 2017 - 09:49 AM.

[Gatti]

I also picked up some headlight surrounds.

 

I'll end up getting the grille and surrounds restored but put them on the car jus to have a look at it.

 

[Gatti]

Started to sand it back today and below are the results.

As mentioned this is my first rebuild so forgive the questions.

Is the cream colour body filler?

It’s only a very thin layer. I have heard of people ‘skimming’ a panel so it can be sanded smooth.

Is this normal or is it a sign of things to come and I have a lot of work ahead??






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Edited by Gatti, 10 February 2018 - 05:39 PM.

[Gatti]

I also cut the floorpan out the other week.

 

Just need to work on my welding skills before I fit the new pan.

 

[purrlx]

In my opinion if you are sanding it back that far to expose bog skim. I would go back to bare metal as a start then you know exactly what you have.

[Gatti]

hope you have new floor pan in hand and havent cut it back to far

 

 

The black texter marking is the outside edge of the replacement pan.

 

I had to cut a fair bit out as it was pretty rusted.

In my opinion if you are sanding it back that far to expose bog skim. I would go back to bare metal as a start then you know exactly what you have.

 

Yeah I think I'll go all the way around the car to nearly bare metal to have a look first and then go around again right back to metal and re-primer as I go.

[Gatti]

Did some more stripping today. So far it's looking pretty good with no big filler sections or bad rust. The lower sections of the panels seem pretty good so far as well.

 

 

 

 

[Gatti]

Got some more done over the weekend


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[Gatti]

I decided to make life a bit easier for myself so bought a rotisserie for the car for easy access.

 

Just need to remove the front end and diff and work out the best way to mount the shell.

 

I've started another thread in 'General Discussion' about how I should mount it.

 

[Gatti]

Had my first big try of welding today and make a bracket for the front of the car to mount it onto the rotisserie.

 

I used square tube to go inside the frame of the car and it will be bolted to the inside of the brackets for the rotisserie.

 

It then bolts into the holes for the bonnet latch

 

It turned out pretty well and I'm happy with it for a first attempt.

 

 

 

 

 

[grumpy xu1]

The black texter marking is the outside edge of the replacement pan.
 
I had to cut a fair bit out as it was pretty rusted.
 
Yeah I think I'll go all the way around the car to nearly bare metal to have a look first and then go around again right back to metal and re-primer as I go.

I hate to tell you, but with the amount of paint thickness on the vehicle as posted on your YouTube, you really don't have an option bar bare metal, or you'll most certainly have issues for sure. Right at the start i gave you a guide to run with, if you stick with that, you won't have an issue. Yes, you can definitely do 1 or 2 panels at a time & use a good quality epoxy etch primer. I'd focus on having the whole shell & swinging panels in epoxy first & do all the repairs before high build, re epoxy over all your repairs as you finish them. Good luck

[madtoranajzedded]

I see where your coming from Gaz.i think Gatti wants
to do a qik fix and get it on the road and get back to
the body in 5+ yrs time?..its going to cost quite abit
all the gear hes going to need if he goes back to metal. And specially if you havent any gear to start with.
It will amount to thousands..
Maybe it should b asked ..do you want a qik fix or in it
for the long haul..

[madtoranajzedded]

Hmm cant edit Wtf..i was thinking is there a sealer
gaz he could use

[grumpy xu1]

I don't really endorse it, but the only other thing he could do is, Wizz it all down with 180 free cut on a good da sander, till it's fully feathered smooth, do any additional repairs, etch those area's, & apply a polyester resin kit, you need to spray them whilst it's cool, or it drys in the gun, with a 2.5mm tip, leave it for around 2 weeks, block it with 180, then 240, then shoot it with hi build, leave it for 4 weeks, then block that as normal & top coat, it's not the correct way to do it, but with a car like that with all that paint & repairs it's the only way to get a decent job & buy some time, yes maz, it acts a bit like an isolator aswell. It's not the professional way to do it. But it will do what he needs, stops the painting walking on each level as much as it can, that's the main problem with paint thickness, hence why you bare metal strip. Gary.

[Gatti]

I don't really endorse it, but the only other thing he could do is, Wizz it all down with 180 free cut on a good da sander, till it's fully feathered smooth, do any additional repairs, etch those area's, & apply a polyester resin kit, you need to spray them whilst it's cool, or it drys in the gun, with a 2.5mm tip, leave it for around 2 weeks, block it with 180, then 240, then shoot it with hi build, leave it for 4 weeks, then block that as normal & top coat, it's not the correct way to do it, but with a car like that with all that paint & repairs it's the only way to get a decent job & buy some time, yes maz, it acts a bit like an isolator aswell. It's not the professional way to do it. But it will do what he needs, stops the painting walking on each level as much as it can, that's the main problem with paint thickness, hence why you bare metal strip. Gary.

 

Thanks for the comments fellas.

 

Now that the car is on a rotisserie I'll rub it right back to metal. 

[Gatti]

Mounted the car on the rotisserie on the weekend and my brackets are holding up fine.

 

I'll pull the diff and front end out of it next weekend and get into cleaning it up.

 

 

 

[Gatti]

I didn't have much time to work on the car last weekend with Mother's Day etc, but I dropped out the K Frame today.

 

 

[Heath]

Nice work Matt.

[Gatti]

I am planning on hitting it with some paint stripper to get it back to metal.

 

My only concern is will the paint stripper damage the fibreglass flares??

[grumpy xu1]

Best to go right back to bare metal everywhere mate, including under the fibreglass. You're probably going to find things you didn't want to see though i think. They're glassed over the top of the steel aren't they, not a fiberglass flare added & glassed into the body ?

[Gatti]

Now the old girl is on the rotisserie I have found some more rust sections. (to be expected)

 

 

 

This is on the drivers side up inside the guard. I'm thinking I will cut a lower section out of the guard to give me access in here to repair it then weld the section back in afterwards? 

 

The issue I have is if I pull the guards off it will break the fibreglass flares which would mean removing them from the rear as well which is a much bigger can of worms than I really want to open with my skill level.

 

 

 

This is the sill and lower guard section on the passenger side. Not sure how to tackle this yet...

 

 

 

Anyway, at least I should hopefully be a decent welder by the time its all replaced

[Gatti]

So my plan is to cutaway the lower sections of the front guards (like Marty did in his thread) as the bottoms of them are rusted out and it will also give me access to repair the rust on the drivers side as shown above.

 

I'll then replace the lower sections with new ones from Resto Country.

 

That's my plan anyway, I'll see how I go  

 

Marty's car

 

[Gatti]

I realised I had a couple of rollers back to front on the rotisserie so I pulled it all apart and fixed it as it was making it hard to adjust the height.

 

I also adjusted it all for a better centre of gravity.

 

3 and a half hours (and several beers) later and it rotates much easier.

 

Friday night well spent.

 

https://youtu.be/moaN5m6YZng

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