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LC Torana 2 Door


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#76 riccardo

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 12:54 PM

I decided to make life a bit easier for myself so bought a rotisserie for the car for easy access.

 

Just need to remove the front end and diff and work out the best way to mount the shell.

 

I've started another thread in 'General Discussion' about how I should mount it.

 

xkh7Wn2.jpg

where did you buy it from?



#77 Gatti

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 10:40 AM

where did you buy it from?

 

 

It's this one https://www.ebay.com...SsAAOSwbKRbOaGA



#78 Heath

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 11:02 AM

How are you going with the project Matt?

I wouldn't be stripping it down near the flares, just maybe everywhere else lol.

#79 Gatti

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 02:50 PM

How are you going with the project Matt?

I wouldn't be stripping it down near the flares, just maybe everywhere else lol.

Hi mate. I haven't touched it for a few weeks as I've been busy.

 

I plan on getting back into it this weekend.

 

Yeah, I'm being very cautious with the flares because if I damage them it will open a huge can of worms as I'd need to remove them all and that is definitely beyond my skill level.



#80 Rockoz

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 01:09 PM

If the flares are glass, maybe spend a bit of time and make moulds of them just in case the unthinkable happens.

It is actually pretty easy to do.

 

Nice clean and polished surface to start with helps.

Mould release.

Glass and resin.

Some scraps of wood cut to reasonable shapes to add some stiffness to the mould.

 

Just a thought if you are concerned about them.



#81 Gatti

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 01:39 PM

I've been flat out with work and family lately so progression on the Torana is slow.

 

 

 I've welded in the drivers side floor (I'm not too proud of it at the moment as it's my first try at a larger welding job so I'll post another photo once I've tidied it up)

 

Photo below is when I had started to tack it in.

 

Yabh3cQ.jpg

 

 

I have decided to bite the bullet and get the blasted inside and out to make it so I can get stuck into the body properly.

 

I've been quoted $1850 to blast it. Does that sound about right?

 

I won't get them to blast the flares so they will stay on the car.


Edited by Gatti, 14 October 2018 - 01:42 PM.


#82 lctriples

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 09:21 PM

Gatti, I'm feeling your pain, this is my attempt at replacing floor pans. I thought looked pretty ordinary at first until I ground the welds back and painted, didn't come up too bad, and I'm not really that fussed as will be putting resomat down inside car, and spraying body deadener underneath which will hide 90% of flaws.

I had a quote for around 4k to sandblast my project but that included everything inside and out (including doors, guards, boot, bonnet ect) then spraying in 2 pack expoxy primer. Having looked at cars in the shop, they do a fantastic job and would have been money well spent, but have decided to paint strip as much as I can and they will do the 'fidly" bits to save money. Just make sure you use a reputable blaster who know's what they are doing as some rush to save time/money and you will end up with warped panels from too much heat. The old saying "you get what you pay for" really applies here. good luck and keep progress pics coming, cheers paul. 

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#83 Gatti

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 11:29 AM

Gatti, I'm feeling your pain, this is my attempt at replacing floor pans. I thought looked pretty ordinary at first until I ground the welds back and painted, didn't come up too bad, and I'm not really that fussed as will be putting resomat down inside car, and spraying body deadener underneath which will hide 90% of flaws.

I had a quote for around 4k to sandblast my project but that included everything inside and out (including doors, guards, boot, bonnet ect) then spraying in 2 pack expoxy primer. Having looked at cars in the shop, they do a fantastic job and would have been money well spent, but have decided to paint strip as much as I can and they will do the 'fidly" bits to save money. Just make sure you use a reputable blaster who know's what they are doing as some rush to save time/money and you will end up with warped panels from too much heat. The old saying "you get what you pay for" really applies here. good luck and keep progress pics coming, cheers paul. 

 

Yours looks good mate.

 

I definitely learnt some lessons with my first repair and will only get better from here on.

 

I just need to take more time doing it



#84 Gatti

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Posted 06 November 2018 - 10:52 AM

I've got the car booked in to be fully blasted in the next couple of weeks so I'm sure that will reveal some more rust spots to repair.

 

I've also scored some reupholstered seats for it.

 

They are Holden Gemini Coupe front buckets and a LC Torana rear seat. Not sold on the pattern on the seats but they'll do for a while and I got them for a steal  :D

 

4eE3b9w.jpg



#85 LONA-CK

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Posted 07 November 2018 - 06:47 AM

That a pretty high price, there are plenty of eco soda blasters getting around lately with mobile set ups I got a full car done a few months ago for 1250

I'm at Coffs harbour, smaller the town could be that reason, but 4k you would want diff housing parts kframe parts and all other parts done to for that price

 

Cheers john



#86 Gatti

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Posted 07 November 2018 - 10:52 AM

That a pretty high price, there are plenty of eco soda blasters getting around lately with mobile set ups I got a full car done a few months ago for 1250

I'm at Coffs harbour, smaller the town could be that reason, but 4k you would want diff housing parts kframe parts and all other parts done to for that price

 

Cheers john

 

Agreed. I found another guy that will do it for $1200 and I'll then hit it with a coat of Etch Primer to protect it once he's finished.



#87 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 01:38 AM

Best to use epoxy buddy than etch.it will protect vehicle from moisture better than etch as its waterproof.reason is you will b using highfill or bog in areas or even using reface etc..you cant put bog on etch ,so you wont have to do a job twice by removing the etch..make sure you get all the shit you need to get her covered..

#88 Gatti

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 07:53 AM

Best to use epoxy buddy than etch.it will protect vehicle from moisture better than etch as its waterproof.reason is you will b using highfill or bog in areas or even using reface etc..you cant put bog on etch ,so you wont have to do a job twice by removing the etch..make sure you get all the shit you need to get her covered..

 

Thanks mate. I'll grab some epoxy then  :spoton:



#89 Gatti

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 07:58 AM

I was planning on doing some research this weekend to see what's the best way to do it.



#90 Gatti

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 11:35 AM

My seats arrived today.

 

I'm very happy with them and they were a bargain at $350 for the lot including rails  :D

 

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