27 replies to this topic

[lazyh]

Hey guys n girls, started the old girl up day for the first time in over a year. And what looks like she's bleeding from the rear main. (308 vk tri) is there any tricks to pull the box out and more importantly is there any alignment issues I'll have once it goes back in. Not a Machanic but fairly hands on, any advice appiciated

[Bigfella237]

Pretty sure a VK 308 would be a rope seal for the rear main, which means pulling the crankshaft out to replace.

 

Lot more involved than just R&Ring the trans.

[Ice]

You be taking engine out for rear main seal

[lazyh]

Yeah I just called my brothers mate, he seems to think the same thing. Thanks guys for the info

[Redslur]

No short cuts with 308s.  Might even still leak after replacing it with a new one. Make sure you buy a good quality one like a genuine GMH one.

[lemonaro]

Have you thought about using a Sneaky Pete Tool? Google it, there's a you tube vid and it seems a lot easier than pulling motor out and  removing the crank. Looks like you could do it with motor and trans still in car, just a matter of removing sump and rear main cap. I've seen the tool for sale at Bursons for around $70.

I've also got a rear main seal leak and would like to hear of anyone's experience using a Sneaky Pete.

I've tried using an oil additive thats supposed to stop rear main leaks. It didn't work!

[Bigfella237]

There's a very precise procedure to follow with Holden rope seals, if you do it wrong you can put it all back together only to find the new seal leaking worse than the old one.

 

COME Racing have a good video on it here:

 

[hanra]

ve tried using an oil additive thats supposed to stop rear main leaks. It didn't work!

 

I think some of those additives only work on neoprene seals, not rope seals. 

[grumpy xu1]

I wouldn't be game enough to put in an additive to gum things up in an engine i care about. Bolts are reusable & 308 gaskets are pretty cheap, just pull it out & do it, there's like 7 wires & a couple cables ect, 2 hours & it's out.

[lazyh]

You guys are too good on this forum, I finally got her going and running with out me behind the shell. It looks like a drop of oil from the sump but pissing out of the dip stick, I know u can have to much oil and this sounds like this is the problem or the seal on the dip stick.
Not leaking from where I thought, simo is weeping in to spots but still roughly 50ml came out last time and frOck all this time. So what u guys think, drop the oil and if so how much to go back in????4.5 L. Thanks for ur efforts so far, I am a long time resident here and finally started to come alive with the build,

I should start a thread for my uc hatch well Lx to be,
Thanks for ur info so far

[lazyh]

There's a very precise procedure to follow with Holden rope seals, if you do it wrong you can put it all back together only to find the new seal leaking worse than the old one.

 

COME Racing have a good video on it here:

 

HOW GOOD IS THIS VID.im just starting to turn spanners and it just makes me wanna dive into it

[Ice]

Nip up your sump bolts to while your at it

[Redslur]

Rocker covers can be a big issue too and can dribble down the back of the block giving you a false indication it is coming from the sump / rear main area.  Do all the simple things first like suggested and then clean it down.

 

5.0L take 5.0L of oil by the way :-)

[TOERUNNER]

Had wins and had fails with sneaky pete, 

[lazyh]

Rocker covers can be a big issue too and can dribble down the back of the block giving you a false indication it is coming from the sump / rear main area.  Do all the simple things first like suggested and then clean it down.

 

5.0L take 5.0L of oil by the way :-)

 

cheers mate, is that including for the oil filter???

[lazyh]

the problem im having now is its coming out of the dip stick. my mate seems to thing that the breather is choking the motor and pressurising and pissing out the dipstick. hoping it will be fine after i change the breather.im also having a look at the pcv and hose set up.i had a machanic get it running 18 months ago but i havnt touched it. trying a few things now....

[Bigfella237]

Depending on what pollution gear you have on that motor, it should have a breather in one side rocker cover connected to the air cleaner, and a PCV valve in the other rocker cover connected to vacuum at the base of the carby.

 

Both would have to be blocked and the compression rings would need to have some blow-by in order to pressurise the crankcase, although if sitting around for 18 months I could well see some of that happening. You don't have wasps around there do you?

 

Start by pulling the PCV valve out of the rocker cover and make sure it still rattles when you shake it (it has a ball-bearing in there to stop a manifold backfire pressurising the crankcase and blowing all the seals out of the engine), and obviously it should have vacuum with the engine running if you stick your thumb over the hole.

 

Some gasket kits came with an o-ring for the dipstick tube, and some people apply a gasket cement / sealant when installing them too, but they were just metal-to-metal interference-fit from the factory. The oil level shouldn't be that high anyway, if it is you will certainly have the crankshaft running in the oil, which will aerate it causing poor lubrication and possibly a loss of oil pressure.

 

I don't suppose you overfilled the oil in preparation for storage and forgot to drain it back out?

[lazyh]

thanks big fella you are a gem. i drained the oil and my frOckin mecahic had put 7.5 in her. she hasnt been driven at all just in his shop. so im now putting 5l in. see how we go i have to look up a holley carbie setting and find which is vacuum as im a first year apprentice now hahaah baby step for the newbie!!! hopefully all good and driving by christmas....

 

any one have recommendations about an exhaust place near frankston or dandy(melbourne)???

[lazyh]

i thought i would get involved a lil more and post a pic of the lovely

Attached Files

•  IMG_5943.PNG   1.23MB   1 downloads

[Bigfella237]

Not sure about the painted bumper bolts but otherwise... NICE!

 

Anything below throttle blade level is basically a vacuum fitting, usually there is a larger sized pipe on the base of the carby at the front (or maybe the rear for some Holley carbs) for the PCV.

 

You can connect it anywhere it will fit on the inlet manifold but it really needs to be as far away from the brake booster vacuum line (at the back of the manifold) as possible, otherwise you may not get full assist with the brakes.

 

If you've got a lumpy cam then manifold vacuum will likely be scarce anyway, having the PCV connected to the same "tree" as the booster would be enough to give you problems.

 

EDIT Is that the same car as the blue one in your profile pic?

Edited by Bigfella237, 08 November 2017 - 03:50 PM.

[lazyh]

CHEers mate,
No it's not the same I sold that for after 8 years of not having it on the road!!!!!! 11 months later bought this one. Got it painted and that's where I'm at,

So after changing the oil , I put 5 litres of Penrite HPR 30 20/60 , let it sit for halfa and now on start up its developed a knock, geez someone up there doesn't want me to drive it. Not sure if u can upload vids but I just tried.....

[Bigfella237]

You can't upload video to the forum, probably easiest just to throw it on Youtube and then link it here.

 

Are you sure you have oil pressure?

 

Is it a knock or a tapping sound or a rattle? (sounds like a silly question but it's not)

 

Is it coming from the top of the engine or down low?

 

Is it only there at idle or worse under load?

 

Does depressing the clutch pedal make a difference?

[lazyh]

Low end and its and auto. I'll see if I can upload it and add a hyperlink here

[Redslur]

Another silly question...does it have the standard V8 sump of a winged aftermarket one? Standard sump is 5L and aftermarket ones are around 6 - 6.5L

[koalasprint]

Hi Andrew, not sure if it is too far for you, but I used Exhaust Fix on Beresford road in Lilydale. Check their facebook page. They do a lot of custom work. The owner is Mick and he knows his stuff. They did my exhaust on an LX Hatch. Stainless mufflers, and got the rest ceramic coated. Silver to the diff, then black the rest of the way out the back. When Mick looked at my car he described how he wanted to do the system and without me telling him he was describing it as I wanted it. 2 1/2", mandrel bends, x-pipe, then 2 1/4 over the diff, heavy duty hangers, etc. (Important to drop the pipe size as you move further from the engine to keep gas speeds high as it cools and shrinks) They also used flange joints and put them at convenient locations for removal should the need come up. Prices are very reasonable. The only downside is that they are very busy, so book in ahead of time.