23 replies to this topic

[Gatti]

Hi guys,

 

I am starting my first rebuild on an LC 2 Door.

 

The car is in primer already, but I want to see what's under the primer. (Was done before I bought it)

 

I'm thinking I'll do a panel at a time using paint and strip discs on my grinder.

 

Once the panel is back to metal, if there's no repairs needed, I will spray it with an etch primer from a can.

 

Is the primer in a can good enough to use?

 

I'm thinking it will protect the panel until it's all ready for paint and worse case it could be rest ripped and primed before the paint goes on.

 

Am I heading in the right direction??

 

This is the car.

 

Edited by Gatti, 20 November 2017 - 09:12 PM.

[Indy Orange]

Where?

[madtoranajzedded]

No.. dont use the cans bud.go epoxy.
something like protec 408 which quite a few
have used with great results.. using
compressor with regulator and filtration system preperation is the most important step using the same products right through or Products that are compatable.

Etch is only used on straight panels and if
your not using bog etc, and cannot use etch or
epoxy together as they are not compatable..

Get the big strip it discs that go on a
variable speed buffer.they are roughly 170-180
mm in diamater and will work far better than
the small ones..when i started on mine i used
a blaster for enginebay dr jams dash under
guards etc.every where where its hard to get
to i blasted.i used paint stripper on front
guards and rear qtrs.taping up seams and
crevices where i didnt want the stripper going.

Gee i could keep going but there are other
guys on here with far better knowledge to
tell or show you how to go about it..
These strip it wheels are on ebay.

Cheers Maz
 s-l300 (4).jpg   20.26K   7 downloads

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 21 November 2017 - 02:02 AM.

[Bigfella237]

I think it's a good call to take it back to metal, looks like that grey primer has been sprayed straight over the old (red/orange) paint as it seems to be flaking off already around the front spoiler and radiator support.

 

Are those flares metal or fibreglass? If glass I'd be very careful using those strip wheels around them as you could easily make ten times more work for yourself?

 

Depending on what primer has been used (acrylic for example) it may come off quite easily just with a rag soaked in GP thinners, but if it was epoxy or similar then you'll have to do it the hard way.

 

I'd pick just one test panel and strip that first, this will probably give you a sense of the previous owner's work ethic, if there's old paint underneath then you're in for a lot of work, but if it's all been done properly and is reasonably straight then maybe a quick rub down and re-coat with a decent epoxy primer as mentioned above will do?

 

But you certainly need what's there already to be stuck fast or you're wasting your money on new paint.

 

Another thing I wanted to mention is to try and get a look inside/behind all the panels, almost nobody goes to the trouble of tidying the inside of rust patches and dent repairs and you can usually get a good idea of what you will find under the paint before even picking up a sander.

[jonesy]

i am no expert but my 2 cents is save a couple of bucks up and get it blasted... it will also save your back and solve your 1pac /2pac dilemma as they will most likely epoxy it for you ---the nice green stuff. but as already suggested check what the flares are made of..  after blasting you will know exactly what you have.

 

 

good luck and most of all just enjoy it... cool project you have to do there!

[fx48_eh64]

I used etch primer after stripping to bare metal, then hi build, how ever i cant tell you if it was epoxy or not, as it was my mate who sprayed it,  i just gave him the money and he bought the paint.

im pretty sure it was epoxy though, as once mixed it couldnt be reused.and any that we didnt use got tipped out,   but the etch was out of a gun not a can, 

 

those strip it discs are awesome, i did my whole car with them, but i would stay away from fibreglass with them

 

sorry cant help more

[Gatti]

Thanks for the comments 

 

Below is a photo of the underside of the drivers side flare.

 

Looks like they're fibreglass to me.

 

What do you think?

 

Edited by Gatti, 21 November 2017 - 08:41 AM.

[Bigfella237]

Hard to say from that photo, the outer lip looks like rusty metal to me? Maybe they've cut the factory lip off the guards and moved them outward a couple of inches?

 

In which case that goopy stuff may be fibreglass, or it might be just bog, or maybe some kind of sealer over metal? Looks like a mess whichever way.

[fx48_eh64]

yea hard to tell,  maybe hit it with some sand paper see what you uncover

[grumpy xu1]

As most have already stated & i keep saying to everyone, you "definitely" must use a 2 pack epoxy etch primer, not a single pack & check that it contains a chemical treatment for the steel to prevent more rust, you'll probably need 6 litres to do everywhere. Anything like sikkens, lesonal, glasurit, protec ect. May cost up to around $100 per litre, but it's a total waste of time using the cheap single pack. Yes, once you've mixed the 2 pack with the hardener, obviously you can only use it in a time frame. & wear a mask & ppe. I have given you some instructions before on it if you go back through your build post. You can use Filler over 2 pack epoxy etch, but not over single pack. Although your filler must not be thicker than 6 mm or 1/4", the thinner the better. Gary.

[fx48_eh64]

must have been the epoxy stuff we used  cos we used filler etc over it no dramas  

[grumpy xu1]

must have been the epoxy stuff we used  cos we used filler etc over it no dramas  

I think that you mentioned that yours hardened, so yes it's a 2 pack epoxy etch primer most probably. Filler should not be used over acrylics. Gary.

[Toranamat69]

I don't like abrading my panels unless i have to so I use paint stripper.
It is messy shite but the panels are untouched when you have the paint off.

[grumpy xu1]

I don't like abrading my panels unless i have to so I use paint stripper.
It is messy shite but the panels are untouched when you have the paint off.

There's no problem if you use a (seaweed disc) or clean and strip disc, it doesn't scratch the surface like a (sanding disc) "will" YES "don't" use a sanding disc.

[fx48_eh64]

agree,  dont use sanding disc or flap wheel,

seaweed discs wont damage the panel,  they are awesome,  Use them edge on though not on the flat and they will last ages

[Gatti]

Thanks for the replies.

 

I am planning to make a start on it in the next few weeks.

 

I just want to buy a compressor and paint gun first so I can respray it with the Epoxy Primer as I go.

 

I'm going to replace the drivers side floorpan first and clean up the whole inside and I'll give that the first coat of primer as a bit of practice spraying as well.

[madtoranajzedded]

It gets expensive bud once you start buying
all the gear you need .things like measuring
cups micron filters.wax & grease remover
gloves.bog,sanding paper,sanding blocks,
plenty of gun wash.gun cleaning kit
Sunstrom mask.air gun to blow shit off car.
heaps of old clean cotton rags and
Tack cloths.tape and masking film etc.the list goes on lol..
Hope im not putting you off bud but these are
Some of the things you need to tackle it..
I even bought a spit so can do underneath.can
sell that at the end of build to recoupe some
money..

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 22 November 2017 - 11:39 AM.

[Gatti]

It gets expensive bud once you start buying
all the gear you need .things like measuring
cups micron filters.wax & grease remover
gloves.bog,sanding paper,sanding blocks,
plenty of gun wash.gun cleaning kit
Sunstrom mask.air gun to blow shit off car.
heaps of old clean cotton rags and
Tack cloths.tape and masking film etc.the list goes on lol..
Hope im not putting you off bud but these are
Some of the things you need to tackle it..
I even bought a spit so can do underneath.can
sell that at the end of build to recoupe some
money..

 

Yeah I know it's going to be an expensive exercise but it will be worth it in the end

 

Where in Tassie are you from?

 

I grew up there myself, but live in Sydney now.

Edited by Gatti, 22 November 2017 - 12:45 PM.

[Gatti]

On a different note, I know that air compressors for painting are more about the tank size than the PSI output of the compressor.

 

Is something with a 50L tank going to be up to the task?

[Gatti]

it will do the job but you may only be able to spray a panel not a side in 1 go

Thanks

I’ll buy one a bit bigger then


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[Biscuit]

I’m not a painter - so hopefully someone can give correct numbers. It’s all about the flow rate you can maintain - you are after something that can deliver XX CFM or YY l/s consistently for say 30 minutes (correct the time experts) so whether that is a big comp on a small tank - or a small comp on a big tank etc.
That’s the limit of my expertise, but hopefully I have pointed you at the questions you need to ask.

Biscuit


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[Gatti]

I’m not a painter - so hopefully someone can give correct numbers. It’s all about the flow rate you can maintain - you are after something that can deliver XX CFM or YY l/s consistently for say 30 minutes (correct the time experts) so whether that is a big comp on a small tank - or a small comp on a big tank etc.
That’s the limit of my expertise, but hopefully I have pointed you at the questions you need to ask.

Biscuit


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Thanks mate


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[grumpy xu1]

If you're not going to be blasting ect, just buy a 15 cfm compressor for the amount you're going to do, priming & painting wise you'll be fine, around the $1200 mark & obviously use a water trap to. You really don't need to get super technical for the task you're going to do.