Shed tinkerer
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Posted 26 November 2017 - 03:53 PM
Gday everyone,
I was wondering if any members on here are BMW mechanics or Diesel mechanics?
The misses X5 has a drama with the EGR valve and I just had a couple of quick questions to confirm my understanding of what could be the issue. Not sure how the vacuum is controlled that operates the EGR- is it regulated via a solenoid? Im suspecting the EGR is fine but the signal to the vacuum module on the EGR may not be working.
Fixing it myself (this could be bad hahahaha- watch this space)....
Forum Fixture
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Posted 26 November 2017 - 06:33 PM
BMW diesel engines will have a vacuum pump from memory on X5s. This pump also creates vacuum for the brakes. If your brakes are working ok then check the vacuum at the electric vacuum solenoid that controls the EGR. The solenoid is activated by the engine computer. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and manually test the EGR valve. Its common for EGR valves to stick due to a build up of soot.
You haven't explained the fault you having with the car, is it an electronic fault code or car is blowing excessive smoke.
Shed tinkerer
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Posted 27 November 2017 - 09:27 AM
BMW diesel engines will have a vacuum pump from memory on X5s. This pump also creates vacuum for the brakes. If your brakes are working ok then check the vacuum at the electric vacuum solenoid that controls the EGR. The solenoid is activated by the engine computer. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and manually test the EGR valve. Its common for EGR valves to stick due to a build up of soot.
You haven't explained the fault you having with the car, is it an electronic fault code or car is blowing excessive smoke.
Gday mate- thanks heaps for the reply...
I really appreciate your help with this..
I tested the EGR valve by manually applying vacuum to the EGR module, and the EGR worked. The valve opens when I apply vacuum to it with my external hand pump.
The brakes are working as normal but when I tested for vacuum at the line that operates the EGR- I had no vacuum when I thought there should be (engine was hot, and revved engine to a range of rpm- between 1500-4000rpm and I could not detect vacuum in this line. If there was any vacuum, it was very small/ insignificant- definitely not enough to pull the valve open on the EGR.
The car is blowing no smoke. I have the engine check light appearing- and when i put my scan tool on it threw a code P04010 from memory- but when I checked the code it was EGR fault. The EGR has been cleaned/ de-carbed... The fault code was cleared but reappeared within 10 minutes driving. The EGR was cleaned before actually checking that there was any vacuum to the EGR.
I was not really sure when I should expect vacuum in the line to the EGR- I figure its when engine is hot, ie operating temp, and when revs are between 1500-3000rpm. This is all a guestimation though just based on my generic understanding of EGR operation.
I presume that if the EGR module is working correctly, and there is no vacuum to the EGR (at times when there should be), and considering my brakes are working as per normal, the issue may lie with the solenoid?
I cannot find any schematic diagrams for where the solonoid lives nor part numbers for this solonoid- so I am not sure how to replace it or the extent of the job to replace it- nor the cost for the part... a bit frustrating... it seems all the useful stuff I find to help me is in Russian.
Bloody european cars hahahahaha..
Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 27 November 2017 - 09:30 AM.
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Posted 27 November 2017 - 09:34 AM
Pelican parts have some very good how to tutorials for BMW's.
Oh My, Don't you post alot
Posted 27 November 2017 - 09:50 AM
^ I agree. Get the last 7 digits of your VIN and wack it into their website.
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Posted 28 November 2017 - 09:03 AM
I am not 100% sure what parameters allow the ECM to trigger the solenoid, but the computer would most likely need to see a speed, so trying to get it to work while stationary may not possible. This is the way I would go.
Check the vacuum reading at the solenoid input and check you do have the correct amount to activate the EGR valve. If ok I would run a long vacuum hose from the solenoid output into the cabin and take it for a drive and see if at any time you get vacuum at that hose. If not disconnect the electrical plug from the solenoid and see if the ECM shows a code straight away and same code. With the plug still removed apply a 12v and an earth to the 2 terminals on the solenoid and see if the solenoid triggers manually. These quick tests will hopefully help you isolate if its a vacuum issue, solenoid problem or a problem with the ECM or wiring to the solenoid from the ECM. BMWs are not that hard to repair and buying the parts at the right place can be as cheap as a Holden commodore.
Hope this helps.
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Posted 28 November 2017 - 02:15 PM
wish i could afford to buy my Mrs an X5
Shed tinkerer
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Posted 30 November 2017 - 08:26 AM
I am not 100% sure what parameters allow the ECM to trigger the solenoid, but the computer would most likely need to see a speed, so trying to get it to work while stationary may not possible. This is the way I would go.
Check the vacuum reading at the solenoid input and check you do have the correct amount to activate the EGR valve. If ok I would run a long vacuum hose from the solenoid output into the cabin and take it for a drive and see if at any time you get vacuum at that hose. If not disconnect the electrical plug from the solenoid and see if the ECM shows a code straight away and same code. With the plug still removed apply a 12v and an earth to the 2 terminals on the solenoid and see if the solenoid triggers manually. These quick tests will hopefully help you isolate if its a vacuum issue, solenoid problem or a problem with the ECM or wiring to the solenoid from the ECM. BMWs are not that hard to repair and buying the parts at the right place can be as cheap as a Holden commodore.
Hope this helps.
Cheers mate, yeah it turns out the turbo pressure actuator is dead... I did a similar test to what you described and there was no vacuum under any driving conditions...
When I rang to order the part the fella was telling me that its quite common. Turned out cheap too- $160 including GST. Phew.
Something about european cars makes me nervous... they remind me of those trophy european model woman... sure they look brilliant, lots of gloss and shine... sure id love to drive one, I imagine they would handle exceptionally... but I reckon they would be fairly high strung and require a fair degree of regular attention and be fairly high maintenance (which would get tiring) bahahahahahahahaha.
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Posted 01 December 2017 - 07:14 AM
Good to hear a successive result. I have had 4 BMWs since the nineties and have had a pretty good run out of them. I hear the same comments and there is a perception that BMWs are very expensive to repair. Maybe I have been lucky but any parts I have had to buy have been comparable to Holden commodore parts, and in some cases cheaper. I am sure there are some very expensive parts amongst them but that can be said about many cars.
BMW & Mercedes are all classed as European and people expect to pay big money for the parts, but cars like Volvo, anything French, Italian and VW that have the massive price tags on parts. The other reason they can get expensive to repair is that there isn't as many workshops that specialise in them and like to charge heaps for the privilege.
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