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Best Diff To Convert To


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#1 MyUC78

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 07:21 PM

Hey guys, i have a UC Torana with a Salisbury Diff at the moment. I will be converting the car from a 6cyl to an 8cyl and want to know what diff will be the best to run in it. The car will be used mainly for cruising on the roads but i will want to take it to the drags every now and then. I want to have a tru-track or LSD in it and have it with disc brakes.

Keen to here the advice, thanks



#2 unclefestal34s

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:17 PM

the best and easier way to go would be a 9in as it will be lot easier to work with when changing ratios and choices of axles etc...especially if you plan on doing some drag racing....over the years i've personally tried them all 10 bolt salisbury's as used the A9X's,..borg warner 28 spline,..9in diffs i'm currently running a GM 12 bolt in my car as i do a bit of drag racing as well...keep it simple and use a 9in as tru-traks centres a readily available and go the way of 31 spline axles if your running a manaul gearbox...



#3 dattoman

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:19 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...bw-diff-to-lhx/

 

Or a 9"

 

Depends how much coin you got



#4 Bigfella237

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 11:46 PM

Yep, and depends how much power you're making, and how much traction you have. Sometimes it's cheaper just to do it once and do it right, especially when you start paying tow trucks to get you back home each time.

 

I used to bust 10-bolts on a regular basis back in my HQ days, although not quite as regularly as M21's! A Top Loader and a 9" were the goto options back then but these days there are so many more options.



#5 71lc_1JZ

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 01:18 PM

all depends on HP you are going to run

 

Under 500HP go a Borg warner can get them for a few hundred Bucks they come in heaps of cars VN to VS VL non turbo 25spline But VL Turbo had 29 Spline also R31 skylines and Nissan Pintara but it has 25 Spline there will be heaps of ratios to be had as well

 

if you are going Big HP 9 inch or custom 9 inch from place like CRS 



#6 MyUC78

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 07:44 PM

Im not sure what HP i will have as i am new to all this and learning as i go. I kinda know what i want to do engine wise but at the same time i dont. So i guess i will be posting on here alot. Thank you all



#7 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 01:49 AM

Go a 9 like whats been mentioned.plenty come up on fakebook sites suit lh-uc ready to bolt in
and most cases will have the rear brakes with handbrake cables,and in the factory std Suspension geometry.all you have to know is
what pcd the axles need to b to run your wheels..31 spline should b plenty..

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 21 December 2017 - 02:00 AM.


#8 Shiney005

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 09:06 AM

I wonder how much heavier a nine inch would be compared to the BW?



#9 myss427

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 10:19 AM

Depends on your budget, I have Strange alloy center and its way lighter than the cast iron diff center, weighs about the same as a 10 bolt now, but at a cost.



#10 Redslur

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 11:13 AM

9 inch vote here too.



#11 Bigfella237

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 04:09 PM

I wonder how much heavier a nine inch would be compared to the BW?

 

It's not just the unsprung weight either, a 9" costs you a few extra horsepower to turn compared to smaller diffs too, not a problem if you're rocking big cubes and/or forced induction, but behind a stock 173 you'll loose about half your horses just turning the diff! :<_<:

 

Of course that comes back to your budget as well, for a 9" you can get lightened gear sets, roller bearings, gun-drilled axles, etc., which make a big difference but come at a premium cost too.

 

Also as above, it all depends on how much power you're making and where you're making it, and how much the car weighs, and the size of your tyres, and how much traction they have, and what your intended use is, etc., etc.

 

Even the gearing makes a difference, lower gears tend to be easier on the rest of the driveline but you have to balance that with the additional RPM, if you're using an old school trans without overdrive(s) it will be screaming it's tits off at highway speeds.

 

Everything is a trade-off!

 

But seriously, that is really over-thinking everything, as MAZ said already, pick yourself up a second-hand 9", bolt it in and you should never have to worry about it again (except maybe changing ratios if you want to play games on the quarter mile later on), just make sure you buy one that suits the UC as they're not interchangeable with the LH/LX.



#12 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 05:58 PM

Yeah sorry i didnt know they arnt
inter changable .

Whats different Andrew ? Keen to know

Cheers Maz

#13 Bigfella237

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 06:27 PM

The LH/LX had Banjo diffs (with the exception of the A9X of course), whereas the UC had the small Salisbury

 

The mounting points for the upper control arms are different so a diff from an earlier Torana won't suit a UC, and vice versa.



#14 Rockoz

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 09:57 AM

Just my observations over the years.

If the car is going to be driven on the street primarily then one of the Borg Warners would be sufficient.

My reasoning behind this is if you are making the power needed to justify stronger than the Borg Warner it isnt going to be much fun driving on the street.



#15 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 01:57 AM

Unless your running a snail ☺. How easy
are the centres to put in borgy, just put caps
on and tension?

#16 Bigfella237

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 06:26 AM

Your definition of "fun" must be vastly different to mine then Rob? ;)

 

Gotta keep this short cause Burnout Masters is on 7mate right now...

 

Borg Warners, and really any other Salisbury-style diff, are a PITA to setup properly compared to a Banjo-style (including a 9"). The drop-in Banjo centres have screw caps to adjust backlash and preload, and of course can be completely setup on the bench with the diff housing still under the car.

 

Salisbury-style diffs are usually setup by inserting shims of various sizes in various locations to adjust bearing preload and backlash. The 'proper' way to do that is to either heat or stretch the housing slightly every time you R&R the centre, which could be up to half-a-dozen times depending on how much of a bitch it's being.

 

You can sometimes get away with the bush mechanic's method of just puting the same shims back in where they came out, that usually gets the backlash 'close enough' if you're reusing the same gear set (which was my specialty in the old HQ Prem every time I lunched another set of sun gears).



#17 Rockoz

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 08:46 AM

Possibly Andrew.

But Ive seen some cars with great power that are a struggle to drive on the street in traffic that have had no problem with a Borg Warner diff.

Living where you do you wouldnt have that type of problem, same as where I am.

Heavily worked stuff is generally a pain in traffic.

Like I said, just my observations over the years.



#18 ozyozyozy

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 09:59 AM

Need to look at your end game and be realistic, this is something i continually go on about to everyone, it is the FIRST question that must be answered when looking at modifying a car, can dictate every mod after that.

9 inchs are the best bang for buck, options/power ratings, they do have there shortfalls(i could go on for a while about some) and most products do, thanks to nascar 2nd hand good bits for them are easy to source.
Borg warners are not a bad diff, they would be good enough for most people, still have some good options, realistically, once it is built you will prob never touch it again unless you break it.

#19 MyUC78

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:52 PM

Thank you to all. all the advice has been great.  :)



#20 dron

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 05:08 PM

      Just to add to the confusion                 Go the 9"

 

     A borg warner difff in a uc will need the upper arm mounts welded to the cast center housing not the tubes as in the lh/ lx. This is a specialized welding job and most of the diff people I spoke to  DO NOT RECOMMEND IT. The people that were able to do the job would not recommend it as the weld may let go at some time. I do know welders that can do it but they did not have the jigs to set up the diff mounts. By the way I now have a spare borg warner diff  striped ready to cut and weld any one wants 1 in SA.






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