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#1 slack one

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 10:06 AM

Hi all i brought a pair of a9x/1 toner stub axles my question is when i bolt the ve commodore brake kit to my uc torana stub axle no problem but when i bolt the same kit to the 1 toner stub axle the inside brake pad jams up against the ve rotor and i cant turn the wheel are the kpi on the one toner the same as the uc stub axle i know the caliper mounting point is different are the caliper mounting points set on a different angle. or do need a different caliper bracket Thanks gary     



#2 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 10:19 AM

Some stub axles don't have the whole caliper mounting surface machined flat, depending on which calipers were originally used (there were at least four different calipers HQ-WB and some only needed the immediate area around the mounting tabs machined). Otherwise the positioning should be the same. If you have this issue you just need to machine (or carefully grind, avoiding the existing machined surfaces) suitable clearance for the caliper you're using.

#3 neglectedtorana

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 11:44 AM

Thought I had read somewhere the angles are different

http://www.ls2lxhatc.../suspension.htm

#4 UCSLE

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 03:26 PM

the UC stub axles makes the rotor about 5mm further out compared to the a9x/1 toner

 

if you get the two different stub axles side by side you can see how the inner bearing sits out more on the UC



#5 mick_in_oz

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 07:12 PM

Yes they are a different KPI.



#6 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 05:49 AM

^ That's only relative to the ball joints though, it doesn't affect the brake caliper position which is still on the same plane relative to the stub axle itself, and the same offset.

The link above to ls2lxhatch's site has an image which shows the different machining on the caliper mounting surfaces.

#7 UCSLE

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 04:20 PM

it shows in the pics in that link the offset differences between a HQ rotor a LX stub 

 

put your glasses on if you cant see it :D

 

 



#8 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 10:16 PM

Well yeah if you change the rotor then it could be different, but the original poster said it was the same brake kit so one would assume he's using the same rotor and its unlikely to be either HQ-WB or LH-UC?

#9 rexy

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 10:13 PM

Does your kit use a mounting dogbone bracket for caliber to stub axle? If so you will need a different one to mount the caliber to the tonner stub axle.

#10 slack one

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 10:18 AM

HI all it does use a bracket to mount the caliper on to the stub axle but it only suits the uc stub axle with ve calipers i will have to get one that suite the a9x stub axles also will i have a problem with wheel alignment with the different kpi. Thanks Gary.    



#11 Bigfella237

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:32 PM

 ~ will i have a problem with wheel alignment with the different kpi. Thanks Gary.    

 

There's only a couple of degrees difference, which should easily be accounted for within the camber adjustment.

 

The biggest difference is to the scrub radius (that being the arc that the wheel travels around when turning the steering), especially noticeable if running wider and/or deep-dish front rims, or if you turn a lot of tight corners, but there's not a lot you can do about that, it's designed into the stub axle itself.



#12 slack one

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 11:12 AM

Hi all thanks for all the replies can i buy the caliper bracket or will i have to make one. Thanks Gary.



#13 Bomber Watson

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 12:40 PM

Why cant you use the UC stub axles?



#14 slack one

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 02:47 PM

Hi all the reason for not using uc stubs is when the steering is turned left or right the wheels it the front of the top control arms ( i have 18x8 commodore rims this is a ve commodore setup on a uc front) the steering stops on the steering arms don't touch the steering stops on the lower control arms. So i need to get the wheels up higher the a9x stubs will give me a bit more clearance from the upper control arms or i buy crs 2inch  drop stubs. I hope this makes sense. Thanks Gary. 



#15 Bomber Watson

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 03:50 PM

Yeah that makes sense. 

Had me scratching my head as to why you were complicating the matter. 

Im sure your aware you will need to buy the super expensive Harrop steering arms to work with teh toner stubs etc etc?



#16 UCSLE

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 04:47 PM

i doubt any parts of the uc kit will fit and may end up having less clearance on the wheel

the bracket wont work

also using those hubs will need about 5mm off the spacers which will probably make the caliper hit somewhere ( most kits don't have much clearance normally )

 

try a mock something up with shorter spacers and see how much clearance the caliper has on the k-frame and stuff



#17 rexy

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 08:45 AM

Can you modify the steering stop so the wheel stops before it hits anything?
Would probably be your simplest solution.

#18 slack one

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 06:20 PM

there is a 15mil  gap on both sides between the bottom control arms steering stop and the steering arms it wouldn't look write with a 15m block between control and steering arm. Thanks Gary. 



#19 rexy

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 09:21 AM

Adding an extra 20 mm to the steering stops has got to be your easiest solution then.
It’s not a very visible part of the car.

#20 Toranamat69

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 10:39 AM

And have stuff all steering lock




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