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RB30 in LC Torana - questions for the experienced

LC RB30 Conversion

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#1 _cabby_

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 09:19 AM

Hi All,

 

I have done the search of this site and the web on this conversion but have some specific questions I would like to ask of anyone who has done or is knowledgeable in this conversion.

 

I have a 10/70 LC 4-door, currently running a 186 Red out of a HR, I don't know much about the internals of the motor as I bought it as is, so I don't know if it is a virgin bore block or not. I have been tossing up in my own head whether to rebuild the 186 (a bit stronger and perhaps with fuel injection kit) or to put in a more modern engine, either an RB30 or V6. I am currently leaning to toward the RB30 (NA - I don't plan to Turbo) or rebuilding the 186 for a hint of authenticity. I am not planning a show or race car, it will be a showy streeter I plan to have on cruising duties with the family and local Torana club.

 

Before I decide I am after some advice on the cost and complexity of the RB30 conversion (I may have access to a cheap engine - not sure about the gearbox, wiring, ecu etc), my mates are keen on this conversion, but as the bank roller of the project (and someone keen on authenticity where possible) I am keen to understand as many of the gotchas of the RB30 conversions as I can.

 

Questions:

 

1. CRS sell a conversion kit - gearbox cross member, engine mounts and do a sump conversion. I note from the forums there is different opinions on how good the kit is, but leave that aside for now. Is there any other 'hidden' conversion requirements I need to know about to get the engine to fit?

 

2. I am interested in what gearbox people have used for this conversion. Ideally I would like a 5-speed manual box as it is a cruiser. Does anyone have any recommendations or gotchas on gearbox choice that I should be aware of? I have heard that the trans tunnel in the LC is quite small so ideally I would like to avoid cutting so if anyone has advice on best gearbox to avoid that would be appreciated.

 

3. Diff - I currently run the stock Banjo from an LC. I am interested in people's advice on whether I should upgrade or change the diff to a Borg or Salisbury and if so if anyone has a recommendation or any advice on what to do and not to do?

 

4. I understand I will need to get a tailshaft made up, obviously gearbox and diff choice will make a difference here, but any advice on what to do or where is appreciated?

 

5. I currently run GTR front discs and stock rear drums - do you recommend an upgrade to discs all round as part of this conversion. I guess the diff question affects this answer, if I get a commodore diff I might as well update the brakes?

 

6. As I said I am not sure if the engine I may have access to comes with all the ancillaries, any advice on good places to get parts would be great.

 

7. I understand I will need to get the conversion engineered, does anyone know of any additional requirements I will have to meet to have the car, post conversion, certified - i.e. Seatbelt upgrades or any other safety or polution upgrades? I spoke to my engineer the other day and he was a bit vague on the requirements as he hadn't done/seen the conversion before (and it was the day before Christmas holidays).

 

As I said, I am less concerned about the pros and cons of RB30 Vs Red 6, I am still mulling those over in my head and only I can make that call which will be determined by practicality and sentimentality, but any practical advice on best approach or gotchas would be greatly appreciated.

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Chris

 

 



#2 gtrboyy

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 12:35 PM

If planning to stay n/a 6cyl may as well keep holden 6cyl in it just try to find vk efi 202..modify the headers to suit & adapt later model vn delco ecu to it...feel like they gain a lot more torque in efi fom & can adapt your existing driveline,engine mounts & sump with a small mod.

 

Lots of cool info & helpful peeps on pcmhacking.net to show you efi 202 & other weird conversions.

 

If really want to go 5 speed I'd look at ford 6cyl t5 for good value & as for the diff prefer borgwarner conversions but if you drive like a granny could keep a banjo alive just cruising.

 

If n/a form rb30 hardly seems worth it unless putting turbo on it & same goes with v6 they're really boring without supercharger or turbo.



#3 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 01:21 PM

NA holden 6 will be a much more desired combination if you ever decide to sell... I've noticed RB30 engined and other non traditional holden engines toranas (like ecotec V6s etc) seem to struggle to sell. Torana owners generally want either holden 6 or holden V8. 

 

A decent 186 with triple SUs is a simple, tried and true combination that is easy, fun and makes the car more collectable IMHO. A HSD yella terra remake head is $1k and some decent triples 1k... throw it together with some new rings etc and a decent cam about 240@50 and you will have a good 200+hp engine that will be quite streetable and reliable. It wont be cheaper than throwing in an RB30 but itd be more interesting. 

 

Personally, the only reason I would put in an RB30 is if I was building an all out drag style car and needed the hp and reliability that the turboed RB gives. 

 

In saying that, if you never want to sell it, its your car so do whatever floats your boat. 



#4 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 10:38 PM

Up to you but id stay with the humble hold 6
As been said theres not much to gain really
and for the cost it will set you back going
rb doesnt seem worth it..

You can get tru trac for the original arse
end and if i remember correctly will hold
450hp ok.plenty enough either way you decide.

#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 December 2017 - 02:31 PM

Dollar spent for Dollar spent you will always be well infront hp wise keeping the Holden six if you are staying aspirated. 

 

Resale value will be a lot higher as well. 

 

But to answer question #1, ontop of what CRS sells you will need a modifed wiring loom, different exhaust, different radiator, a return fuel line, an surge tank, an efi fuel pump as well as a lift pump from the tank, ontop of the cost of rebuilding the rb30 (they are a 30 year old engine now days) and engineering, easilly 8-15k there alone before you get to the rest of your questions. 

Cheers. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 24 December 2017 - 06:05 PM.


#6 _cabby_

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 09:32 PM

Thanks all for your advice and input, your advice matches my personal thinking and you may have convinced me. I am happy for any advice on a good engine builder for the 186 if you have it?

 

Thanks again.

 

Chris



#7 gtrboyy

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 06:16 PM

I'd send Struggler who is down your way a message..not sure if he still comes on here but usually see him on aussiev8.com.au forum.

 

Westend Performance up here have a good reputation & also a few holden 6 guru's on this forum too.

 

 

If you get desperate I've got vk efi 202 with ecu etc up here collecting dust...also go most of the vn v6 parts to convert to delco.


Edited by gtrboyy, 31 December 2017 - 06:17 PM.


#8 Shtstr

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 05:30 PM

Changing from Holden 6 to Nissan 6 is not a cheap process if you are watching the pennies then I would just stay with the Holden 6 cylinder.
A basic rundown of costs for you a sump will set you back around between 550 to 750 you will have to upgrade your brakes to four-wheel disc brakes to keep the engineer happy I would suggest putting a chassis kit under the LC to support torsional twist you then also have to look into who you can get to wire it up unless you're able to do it yourself will cost you anywhere from 500 to $1,000 you also have to change your fuel system and run a lift pump from the fuel tank to a surge tank and then run a main pump from the surge tank to the engine you'll have to install return lines the standard banjo diff may last for a while but would strongly suggest upgrading it to a Borg Warner diff that alone will set you back between 1500 and 3000 your tail shaft will have to be made to suit and will cost between 500 to 750 as for a gearbox I would find a late model R34 GTT gearbox as they are newer and can handle more power than the old VL type 5 speed there goes another 2000 as for a clutch being naturally aspirated a heavy duty organic clutch will be fine and will cost you in the vicinity of 700.
Plus you have to pay for engineering modification plates and paperwork hope this is helped you out.





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