How have you attached your loom under the gaurd when hiding loom on LC
#1 _lc202_
Posted 28 December 2017 - 08:01 AM
Thx
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#2 _lc202_
Posted 30 December 2017 - 08:03 AM
I also plan the bring the starter/dizzy/gauge/alt wires through the Fire wall at the rear of the motor. Was wondering how others have attached the loom along the edge of the block??
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Edited by lc202, 30 December 2017 - 08:21 AM.
#3
Posted 30 December 2017 - 02:38 PM
Hid wiring on lc back in 90's when it was all the rage heavily influenced by monthly Streetmachine .
Wiring didn't really need much extending as it basically went from top off inner guard to underneath & whatever headlight/blinker wiring that need extending added same colour wires off another spare harness.
Wiring almost needs no clamps if minimal slack as grommet at firewall/floorpan holds one end harness tucks to chassis rail over bumpstop bracket which you can attach it to plus drill hole to bolt horn there also.
From there along rail you can use bumperbar bracket bolts with another clamp for harness & earth points...only tricky part from there is deciding where you want drill holes for blinker wiring & another for headlights.
Starter wire,charge light are easy simply drill hole through trans tunnel just find clear spot that cant be seen from inside car or engine bay...most of it's hidden by manifolds etc but does need heatwrap...good time to decide if you want battery in boot then just have thicker cable from alternator to starter stud.
If running hei,thermofan & electric f/pump should also upgrade alternator to 85a off vn-vs v8 or larger aftermarker 1 wire things peeps seem to like but lose charge light unfortunately.
The dissy,coil & oil pressure wires come out same hole as starter wire except go over bellhousing...couple neat ways to do it yet still visible from side.
Wiper motor you basically decide if want wires underneath it or angled rearwards under plug...remove wiper,snip wires decent length away from plug drill hole with new grommet then either solder cut wires or use several male/female plugs to keep it removable.
My car had no heaterbox or ducting inside the dash to make it easy...with all that in there expect it be cramped & annoying haha
#4
Posted 31 December 2017 - 02:46 AM
also in mid 90s.i cant really remember if i
extended lights.but do remember making a
tool by grinding down an old knife to push
into terminal from top to take light plug off
then thread through hole just infront of
battery tray.the purple stater motor wire
was abit of a stretch.the water temp was
through firewall left of the back of the head
and reached okay.wires to coil came out
firewall in near the exact spot they are in originally..i think the one what never
reached was the brown wire that goes to the
brake block.cant remember if horn wires
reached.if somethings not going to reach id
use an original fitting to extend from an
old loom using same colored wires...
I never used anything to protect but now id
used that black plastic stuff to cover it
under guards..
very basic but would do the job
images (3).jpeg 18.01K 1 downloads
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 31 December 2017 - 02:56 AM.
#5
Posted 31 December 2017 - 06:28 PM
Ha! Man I was so paranoid as young bloke double-wrapped it all with black tape then conduit + couple p clamps & cable ties for conduit over loom.
If it could be hidden it was!!!! Even washer bottles & Overflow just engine,radiator/thermofan & m/cyl-booster
Blame Ron Barclay,Brett Hayes,Rat Attack,BloBak etc
#6
Posted 02 January 2018 - 01:43 PM
I ran a 20mm metal tube through the fire wall, along the chassis rail, and out through the side of the bumper bracket hole next to the radiator support panel. Fed all the wiring through that, placed all the relays for horn, headlights and fans in void area next to headlights. cant be see through grill, as the are behind panel strip next to radiator. Same principle for LJ's
Edited by myss427, 02 January 2018 - 01:44 PM.
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