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308 Water pump pulley size?


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#1 TORLX8

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 12:21 PM

Hey all, can anyone tell me what is the standard size of a 308 water pump pulley?

Reckon mine is too small compared to crank pulley.

Would explain why she runs warmer than it should and why fan belt is shorter than standard.



#2 Dr Terry

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 02:52 PM

There are 2 basic styles of V8 water pump pulley. The larger one is made of pressed steel, while the smaller diameter one is machined from billet.

 

The smaller (solid) one was usually fitted to factory air/cond cars. It makes the water pump & fan spin faster therefore reducing heating, not increasing it.

 

If your engine is suffering from overheating, first of all very that fact, i.e. use a good thermometer, don't trust the gauge on the dash.

 

When does it get hot, in traffic or at speed ?

 

Dr Terry



#3 TORLX8

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 04:22 PM

Thanks Dr Terry.
Guess the smaller pulley isn't my issue then.
She's fine at speed. Just getting warm in traffic.
Just factory guage but it's definitely getting hot.
Has a clutch fan with 3 core HQ radiator and shroud.
Has water pump with cast impeller. Have changed thermostat and added aftermarket high flow thermostat.
Removed trans line from bottom of radiator and ran to separate cooler.
Have been thinking about adding thermos.

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#4 Dr Terry

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:37 AM

OK, the first thing to determine is how 'hot' it is.  What temp does is sit when cruising & what does is rise to in traffic ? The fact that it doesn't get hot at speed means that the water pump, radiator & the cooling system in general is working OK.

 

Getting hot in traffic is usually caused by a fan airflow issue, or tuning.

 

A few questions come to mind.

 

Is the engine bog stock, or does it have a mild cam or similar ? Is is an ADR27A model ?

You mention the viscous fan, is it working properly & do you have a matching fan shroud ?

 

Dr Terry



#5 _1965mjr_

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 10:48 AM

Are you running a fan spacer? Should place your fan approx 2/3 in the shroud 1/3 out. Where does your dash gauge sit normally vrs in traffic?
Regards Mark.

#6 TORLX8

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 01:15 PM

OK, the first thing to determine is how 'hot' it is. What temp does is sit when cruising & what does is rise to in traffic ? The fact that it doesn't get hot at speed means that the water pump, radiator & the cooling system in general is working OK.

Getting hot in traffic is usually caused by a fan airflow issue, or tuning.

A few questions come to mind.

Is the engine bog stock, or does it have a mild cam or similar ? Is is an ADR27A model ?
You mention the viscous fan, is it working properly & do you have a matching fan shroud ?

Dr Terry

Sits at between 1/4 to 1/2 cruising and 1/2 to 3/4 in traffic depending on outside temperature.
It does have a fan shroud.
Not a 27A model.
Mild cam.
Not a tuning issue as it has been dynoed.
It does have a fan spacer and fan is mostly all inside shroud.
Trans cooler is also in front of radiator but that hasn't seemed to effect temperature since installed.
Have been looking at the cylindrical type trans coolers to free up some space in front of radiator.


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#7 _1965mjr_

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 01:49 PM

What temp thermostat are you running? 1/2 is about 80 deg and 3/4 is approx 90 deg as a rough guide,( if I remember correctly, and are you using the correct sender?) but as Dr Terry stated ,you should try another temp gauge for confirmation of your sports dash. Or at least a temp gun.
Regards Mark

#8 TORLX8

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 02:29 PM

What temp thermostat are you running? 1/2 is about 80 deg and 3/4 is approx 90 deg as a rough guide,( if I remember correctly, and are you using the correct sender?) but as Dr Terry stated ,you should try another temp gauge for confirmation of your sports dash. Or at least a temp gun.
Regards Mark

Thanks Mark,
From memory it's a 160 degree thermostat.
Looking at temp gauges right now.

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#9 Dr Terry

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 04:51 PM

I think the cam is your problem. Every engine I've ever tuned with a 'mild' cam has overheating issues at idle.

 

The cam makes the engine more efficient at revs, but less efficient at idle. The dyno tuner guys don't usually worry about idle settings, other than mixture adjustments. You could try running full manifold vacuum at idle, that can quite often cure the problem. If your car was a pre-ADR27A with auto trans, that's the way it came from the factory. 

 

You will need more airflow at idle. Assuming your viscous fan is working properly, adding a couple of electric fans will be the easiest fix. Wire them to a thermo switch plus the brake light switch so they will always come on while sitting in traffic.

 

As the others have said part of your problem is the fact that 160F is a bit too cold & you are noticing the rise from that point to a normal 180F as part of your 'temp rise'.

 

Dr Terry



#10 TORLX8

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 05:20 PM

Thanks for your valuable input Dr Terry.
Will look at some thermos.
Should I also change thermostat to a 180f?


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#11 Dr Terry

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 07:22 PM

Yeah I'm not really a fan of 160F thermostats. Depending on your cam & carby combination, it could cause dramas in mid-winter low ambient temps.

 

Dr Terry



#12 TORLX8

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:02 PM

Ok, I will try a 180f thermostat.
Have no information on motors internal specs at all.
Previous owner had motor built. So no idea what cam is in it.
It guzzles fuel like a big block.
I changed carby years ago trying to resolve fuel consumption issue but didn't make any difference.
Carby is a Holley 670 vac secondary street avenger.

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#13 koalasprint

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 07:57 PM

I've done some work graphing the real engine temperature on a LH/LX gauge. Assuming you have the VDO sender, part 360.003. (Blue ring, but check part # to be sure)

40oC - 73 Ohms - Start of gauge range

93oC - 24 Ohms - Half way on gauge range

100oC - 17.5 Ohms - Two thirds of gauge range

120oC - 10 Ohms Top of gauge range

 

If you have the original Holden sender or the RSP/Kingswood Country sender then these readings may be different.

If your sender is old then these readings may be different.

 

Anyway people above know what they are talking about.

 

Go to 180 thermostat, see if you can check the viscous fan and re-position with 1/3 of the blade width sticking out. Run full vacuum to distributor.






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