17 replies to this topic

[Njc85]

Has anyone ever done it in a LH LX ?
I’m currently looking into doing it. So I can keep the total original look in the car.

Also using a DC a/c Comp so will be nothing ugly mounted under the bonnet. This will be mounted in the boot.

Throwing it out there, see if anyone has done something sort of similar, might take me a while till the finish. But will be done


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[Bigfella237]

I'd be interested to see some photos as you progress.

 

I assume you're talking about keeping the engine bay side of things looking standard? If that's the case I think you would definitely want to try insulating the fan duct internally somehow? As it is, it takes nice fresh cool air and ducts it across the hottest part of the engine, making all the more work for the evaporator to cool it down again.

 

Beside that, I think your biggest problem will be space under the dash, I don't think you'll fit an evaporator in the standard box with the heater core (or if you did it would be so small as to be useless), so will likely require a custom box that runs across to the passenger's side to accommodate the evap, then back to the centre and out the vents?

 

After all that you still won't get conditioned air out of side vents in the dash, that will still be straight from the plenum.

 

You would also want to convert the heater system by adding a thermostat bypass and a heater tap to stop the heater core getting hot?

[Njc85]

I'd be interested to see some photos as you progress.

I assume you're talking about keeping the engine bay side of things looking standard? If that's the case I think you would definitely want to try insulating the fan duct internally somehow? As it is, it takes nice fresh cool air and ducts it across the hottest part of the engine, making all the more work for the evaporator to cool it down again.

Beside that, I think your biggest problem will be space under the dash, I don't think you'll fit an evaporator in the standard box with the heater core (or if you did it would be so small as to be useless), so will likely require a custom box that runs across to the passenger's side to accommodate the evap, then back to the centre and out the vents?

After all that you still won't get conditioned air out of side vents in the dash, that will still be straight from the plenum.

You would also want to convert the heater system by adding a thermostat bypass and a heater tap to stop the heater core getting hot?

Yes, definitely wanting engine bay looking standard, also inside the car.

Won’t be running a heater at all. So that won’t be a problem.

Definitely going to be an extensive amount of custom work. Most prob won’t be ready till next summer. But that’s fine. Drove the other day and it’s just too hot especially with black vinyl.

Will keep you posted. Looking into options of evaporators now. Or even to see if I can adapt some other evap box. Going to be a lot of fun nights ahead!



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[Bigfella237]

The car won't be roadworthy without a heater of some description for the demisters, some people use an electric element type blower (similar to a 12v hair dryer) but there is a significant advantage to drying the demister vent air with the A/C too, it clears a misted screen about ten times faster.

 

Your other option is to leave the factory fan and duct in the engine bay doing nothing and bypass them completely with an under-dash conversion. Drawing air in from the plenum on the passenger's side and cooling/heating it as it moves toward the centre.

 

I've read a lot of people use a Toyota Hilux evaporator/heater unit. There are also aftermarket kits such as Vintage Air but the problem with them is most are designed for LHD cars so everything comes out the wrong side.

 

Either way you'll have your work cut out for you keeping it all looking standard inside the car, there just no room behind a Torana dash. The factory A/C option was all engine bay-based, and the aftermarket kits (the so-called "knee freezers") are anything but stealthy!

[fx48_eh64]

The car won't be roadworthy without a heater of some description for the demisters, some people use an electric element type blower (similar to a 12v hair dryer) but there is a significant advantage to drying the demister vent air with the A/C too, it clears a misted screen about ten times faster.

Not correct

 

An Aircon fits the description for a demister.

 

My FX has only aircon,  just has to be directed at the screen to class as a demister,  I acheived this with a custom made vent tube built into the centre screen pillar

 

Well In QLD anyway, heres a cut and paste from the code

 

(6) Windscreen demisters and washers were required in all vehicles as listed in AIS Information Sheet 14 (ADR’s 15 and 16 apply). If the specific vehicle was manufactured after these dates, the demister and washers must be in working order. To be in working order, the demister must have a working fan capable of forcing air (hot or cold) onto the base of the windscreen inside the vehicle and be able to effectively demist the screen. Rear demisters are not required in ADR’s and, as such, are not required to be operable.

[Rockoz]

Biggest problem I can see with this is the DC air con pump.

Going to need a lot of power to run it.

This will need a bigger alternator to provide the power.

Which will mean your engine bay wont look standard anyway.

[Njc85]

Biggest problem I can see with this is the DC air con pump.
Going to need a lot of power to run it.
This will need a bigger alternator to provide the power.
Which will mean your engine bay wont look standard anyway.

Alternator is already done. Bosch 120Amp


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[fx48_eh64]

some of the new electric aircons are quite efficient, more popular now due to there use in electric vehicles, so if they sucked power they would shorten drive times to much

[axistr]

G'day Nick, I have done this conversion you are inquiring about on both my Toranas. Click on the link for more information. 

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-project/page-5

 

The original Torana cable controls have been retained to control airflow to the windscreen, vents including side vents, floor and bi level. I blocked off the original pellum openings to the side vents so these vents now have A/C air flow. I piggy backed an extra heater cable to a heater tap at the engine so no hot water flows into the airbox until I slide the heat cable which is progressive. This allows me to control the heat better from warm to progressively very hot and I can have hot dry A/C air to the screen or any vents so no windows fog up now. I included a small push button for the compressor cut in on the original control cable face plate. (looks original)

 

I also blocked off the firewall fan duct and have a 4 speed fan motor assembly arranged inside the car under the dash which is only just noticeable. I connected my original un used choke cable to control outside fresh air, recycled air or both. The hatch and SLR have E.F.I engines so I have used the old fan duct to hide the coil, wiring and map sensor.

 

I mounted the A/C compressor down low so its not noticeable. Basically the only things you notice when looking under the bonnet is the two hoses running from the condenser to the fire wall.

 

The system works so well on a hot 42 degree day that my cabin temp is around 23 on medium fan speed, and on a cold day it gets as hot as you want.

 

 

 IMG_20140719_093242_3801359.JPG   246.23K   18 downloads

   

 

 

 

[Bigfella237]

Not correct

 

An Aircon fits the description for a demister.

 

I've had and heard of many cars both knocked back for roadworthy and/or defected by police for having the heater hoses disconnected, granted that none of them would've had A/C but I've never heard that mentioned as a substitute before?

 

There's very little on demisters in the NCOP that I can find, the only mention is in NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine, page 10/LA41, section 2.10

 

 

Seems pretty clear... "Heater hoses ~ must be re-connected"?

[Bigfella237]

Reading Second Edition ADR15 - 1 JAN 1971 - Demisting Of Windscreens, it doesn't go into specifics of how a windscreen should be demisted, it basically just sets out the test procedure and the required results.

 

Part of the setup for the test is:

 

 

15.3.4 The vehicle shall be placed in a cold chamber for sufficient time to ensure that engine coolant, lubricants and internal air temperatures are stabilised at a temperature not exceeding -1.0°C

 

Surely an air conditioner wouldn't operate at minus 1°C?

 

EDIT: Obviously a 48-215 is way before ADRs, maybe that's where the confusion lies?

Edited by Bigfella237, 04 January 2018 - 09:21 PM.

[fx48_eh64]

I even rang QLD transport and clarified it at the time, there is no where in the rules up here that say it must be warm air, 

However, thinking more about it, I also understand, that anything that was fitted to the car when new must be in working order, to be roadworthy, so removing a heater from a Torana may not be allowed if it was standard fitment, 

Obviously a FX didnt have a heater But as im running a V6 Commodore motor, to pass engineering the car basically had to be compliant to the ADR's of the car the motor was fitted to. Hence why the demister was required in the first place.

 

As for being effective in the cold,  It works great,  I came back from Wintersun one year, Late at night Pissing down rain, it was middle of (QLD) Winter,so probably in the 5 to 6 deg range, 2 hr trip aircon on to keep car demisted and it worked a treat.  i can close of my in car vents and only run it to the screen and thats what i did.  But i also would most definitely have a heater if i lived in a cold climate LOL

[Njc85]

G'day Nick, I have done this conversion you are inquiring about on both my Toranas. Click on the link for more information.

http://www.gmh-toran...-project/page-5

The original Torana cable controls have been retained to control airflow to the windscreen, vents including side vents, floor and bi level. I blocked off the original pellum openings to the side vents so these vents now have A/C air flow. I piggy backed an extra heater cable to a heater tap at the engine so no hot water flows into the airbox until I slide the heat cable which is progressive. This allows me to control the heat better from warm to progressively very hot and I can have hot dry A/C air to the screen or any vents so no windows fog up now. I included a small push button for the compressor cut in on the original control cable face plate. (looks original)

I also blocked off the firewall fan duct and have a 4 speed fan motor assembly arranged inside the car under the dash which is only just noticeable. I connected my original un used choke cable to control outside fresh air, recycled air or both. The hatch and SLR have E.F.I engines so I have used the old fan duct to hide the coil, wiring and map sensor.

I mounted the A/C compressor down low so its not noticeable. Basically the only things you notice when looking under the bonnet is the two hoses running from the condenser to the fire wall.

The system works so well on a hot 42 degree day that my cabin temp is around 23 on medium fan speed, and on a cold day it gets as hot as you want.


IMG_20140719_093242_3801359.JPG

Axistr. Some great info and pics there on how you done your setup.
Will most definitely use some ideas.
Just received my DC a/c comp today.

I got some fun times and late nights ahead of me!

Might take me time as I don’t have much of time but will keep posted.


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[axistr]

In the authorised inspection stations pink/blue slip check procedures (RMS) it stated than an inspection must include checking of windscreen demisting system. The directive states that "warm air must be delivered to the windscreen for the purpose of windscreen demisting" then further checks include that "windscreen fan blower must work on all speeds." 

[fx48_eh64]

In the authorised inspection stations pink/blue slip check procedures (RMS) it stated than an inspection must include checking of windscreen demisting system. The directive states that "warm air must be delivered to the windscreen for the purpose of windscreen demisting" then further checks include that "windscreen fan blower must work on all speeds." 

 

Must be just here in sunny QLD then LOL , as my cut and paste was from the safety check list for road worthies up here in QLD

[slr5640]

here's some pics  I've saved for inspiration !!

 

custom built 

appears to be aftermarket integrated air

 

 

 

 

 

[axistr]

Haven't seen one like that before, Great on a inline 6 but doubtful if you would get a v8 in the engine bay without hitting the fan duct.  

[Ando]

My first SS did have that blower shroud as part of the A/C installation. 

 

Photo is 30 years ago..

Attached Files

•  PC300011.jpg   117.78K   11 downloads

Edited by Ando, 09 January 2018 - 02:20 PM.