92 replies to this topic

[purrlx]

Attached is some pics of inner guard over lap and chassis rail welds. It’s the same both sides. Also pics of passenger rail, dent and crease on outer and crack/tear in inner edge this is near the fire wall.  IMG_28Apr2019at72328pm.jpg   248.69K   14 downloads  IMG_28Apr2019at72259pm.jpg   236.21K   10 downloads  IMG_28Apr2019at72428pm.jpg   183.64K   10 downloads  IMG_28Apr2019at72451pm.jpg   170.36K   10 downloads

[Rockoz]

Have noticed when they get a tap on the rails they end up wih a depression in the roof above the B pillar,

It goes away mostly once the rail is put in is right place.

The seam across the firewall usually opens up a tad as well.

Possibly things to check

[purrlx]

Have noticed when they get a tap on the rails they end up wih a depression in the roof above the B pillar,
It goes away mostly once the rail is put in is right place.
The seam across the firewall usually opens up a tad as well.
Possibly things to check

Haven’t seen a depression on the roof but it isn’t stripped back yet. And yes the seam in. The fire wall you can see a crack in the mastic (black sealant stuff) which will be checked as work continues. The more I look the more I am finding.

[purrlx]

One rail out one to go.


 IMG_13May2019at105209am.jpg   326.06K   13 downloads

[arrimar]

Would leaving one in make it easier to align the replacement?

[purrlx]

Not sure if it would be easier on not. The rail has been cut and shunt in front of crossmember mounting point. You can see heat marks between the cross member mounting bolts in above pic. Would hate to measure off already compromise rails.

[Rockoz]

The chassis drawing floating around is all you need to get it right.

A good start would have been the distance between the gearbox crossmember bolt holes.

Then everything else would fall into place fairly easily.

Spirit level, good long straight edge and a tape measure.

My old mate panel beater had a measuring tool that extended equally either side of centre somehow.

Should have paid more attention to it.

Made measurements off the centreline a breeze.

[Bigfella237]

All of the above but with the addition of an absolute must have, being a perfectly flat floor or some other flat, level datum to work from.

 

You will also need a plumb-bob (or if you want to get fancy, a laser plumb-bob like tilers use will save you a heap of setup time).

 

Then just put masking tape on your floor so you can mark the centres from the drawing (below) and measure across the floor.

 

[purrlx]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have that chassis pic already thanks Bigfella that’s one of the reasons I thought I give it a go myself. Will be a slow and steady fit up lots of measuring.

[rodomo]

Weld a bit, measure, measure the measure. Have a beer. Look at it. Measure the tape measure. Weld a bit. Have another beer (or two?). Spot weld another bit, measure, stand back and look at it while having a beer.

 

Do the next bit tomorrow and good luck!

[Rockoz]

Measure, then measure again.

I reckon some clecos would be the best investment you could make to get it right.

Probably go for the bigger ones. The usual size is 1/8th, and I think the bigger ones are 3/16th.

Means that if you need to move things, you only have a small hole to fix up at the end.

They are cheap, and have immense holding power for what they are.

I would reckon perhaps 40 or 50 to help hold things together would make the job so much easier.

[purrlx]

Fully committed now both rails out.
 IMG_22May2019at35945pm.jpg   341.39K   19 downloads

[rodomo]

Trial fit everything as you go...……...time consuming but worth it in the end.

[myss427]

Brings back memories of when I did my car, difference with mine was the tunnel/firewall were pushed back 6 inches from the crash. After we pulled that out, it was very much like your shell. I got a full donor front end with rails intact, stripped the firewall out, cleaned it up and placed it up to the body, and it was crazy close to being an exact match. Just did a couple of tac welds here and there after clamping and measuring, put guards and bonnet on, check gaps and alignment, weld a little bit here and there, more checking, adjusting so on. In the end all good. Just be patient, and double check.

[purrlx]

hi Dan,
 
i just spotted your location I'm also in gladstone.

Yes same area

[purrlx]

Wow, been a while. Life has got in the way and only just got back into it. Have cut out dodgie tunnel and fitted a replacement piece.  BB49A028-BDE0-4630-8457-233663A163EF.jpeg   223.04K   14 downloads  446FF39B-AA22-49CE-8B7F-FA6EA1E81C56.jpeg   356.35K   13 downloads  3961848D-4D37-4515-808C-2639CA789A94.jpeg   388.89K   12 downloads

[purrlx]

Have also clearances front firewall for larger front tires.  A15C765A-C658-4A43-BF49-35FCD0CEF148.jpeg   244.82K   10 downloads  38E865DA-7B88-471B-B46A-483B3A159B77.jpeg   257.58K   9 downloads  F9A319B5-02C6-4CA9-AE50-549CA217C57E.jpeg   157.69K   9 downloads  73C2346B-61AB-4529-9A3C-9C58281656D6.jpeg   144.43K   9 downloads

[purrlx]

Today’s effort was remove the plenum to attack some more rusty areas. Plates welded in but not ground back yet.  E3B8D79A-1884-4E24-BBF3-A5C98B77423B.jpeg   300.13K   8 downloads  704E3469-C45E-4E65-986A-213C40E0A9E9.jpeg   410.23K   8 downloads

[purrlx]

Pics are a bit dark. In this next pic there is 2 holes in the back of the phlenum, should they be there or should I weld them up. Behind glovebox area.  3D1F3C67-8E39-4DB5-AC17-22F1C7F6C763.jpeg   307.19K   8 downloads

[Mitchyboy]

Pics are a bit dark. In this next pic there is 2 holes in the back of the phlenum, should they be there or should I weld them up. Behind glovebox area. 3D1F3C67-8E39-4DB5-AC17-22F1C7F6C763.jpeg

The only holes should be the 2 big ones for the heater. And then the 2 in the corners that lead to drain it out the side behind the fenders
Id weld them up

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Edited by Mitchyboy, 14 April 2020 - 05:27 PM.

[purrlx]

Thanks Mitch, thought so but wasn’t sure.

[purrlx]

Been plugging away slowly. Have removed both front floor pans and dummy fitted both and adjusted a bit. Got passengers side welded in hope to do drivers in the next couple of days.  31DEE1F2-A3D4-4460-B219-C707E6188B02.jpeg   275.51K   7 downloads  57D5447C-6FF4-4320-B349-965F5A280659.jpeg   324.52K   7 downloads

[purrlx]

Also have had phlenam out for rust repair. Someone before me has cut the top lip behind dizzy obviously for greater clearance. I’m not against the idea but couldn’t think of a way to make it look tidy, so returning back yo normal.  0C967FEE-0301-4DA3-817C-D3E1DDAF7C86.jpeg   323.23K   10 downloads

[purrlx]

Today I got the drivers floor pan in. Some mods required to floor pan patch piece.  370A2A9A-5E4B-4485-BFA8-9E8DE31974BA.jpeg   282.78K   9 downloads