31 replies to this topic

[gtrboyy]

Not a quick fix but I'd rather have diff moved forward to centre wheel in middle....looks better than extending rear of wheel arch...might still be scrubbing of sparewheel section.

 

Either adjustable top arms & shorter lower arms or diff brackets rejigged to suit.

 

Could probably get another set of springs heated up & reset or some 2nd hand jobs off forum

[madtoranajzedded]

The lower adjustable rod arms are to
centralise the wheel in centre of wheel arch,
the top arms are to set pinion angle..

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 February 2018 - 04:59 PM.

[gtrboyy]

Nah lower arm will keep wheel in same spot...pinion angle swivels off it hence adjustable top arms to correct that kind of thing.

 

About $900 from Pro9 adjustable top & lower arms with spring perch from pics

 

Macdonald Bros sell adjustable top arms cheaper but lower arms non-adjustable look more d.i.y/custom work.

 

 

You'd have to weigh up what's better value buying adjustable arms or getting your diff rejigged...other thing to consider is if your axles have a lot of spline left look at prices to narrow housing.

 

15x7 with 3.5" BS will increase sidewall with & also push further into wheelarch. 

[madtoranajzedded]

Is your first pic is on the
ground.2nd jacked up.i didnt look at your
pics thoroughly as it appears theres no room
to move forward going by 2nd pic.
With the lowers i gather seem you have
original mounting points for the spring,the
top mount where the spring is
bolted ,you would have to redrill hole
forward so spring will be vertical and not
on a slight lean ...John Lang from pro 9
has the lowers..

Damn gtr 😃 you bet me to it
 259-350x350-392442 (1).jpg   9.4K   12 downloads

[madtoranajzedded]

I dunno dude lol.thats just me thinking if
the wheel was moved forward youd think you'd
have to do same to top unless it was only 5mm
or so..

Just a hole really with a retaining lug on
the spring metal plate.

This is lc but lj would have the lug
 post-45764-0-57937300-1431235330 (1).jpg   88.76K   10 downloads

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 February 2018 - 06:32 PM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Id give John Lang (pro 9) a buzz and run it
past him and see what he says..great bloke..

[gtrboyy]

*All 3 pics look like rear section on wheelarch to me.

 

 

Kind of think 5-10mm  forward should be ok...even then should be some leeway to allow for it.

 

Don't forget usually when fit rear springs they're bolted to chassis rail then you raise diff in an arc to fit & tighten down those spring clamps that hold them into place.

 

Probably want 10-15mm clearance at rear as radials grow a little but also when you nail throttle rear end will squat.

 

Didn't account for rear squat with softer settings when did mine so it rubbed then really wished wheel was centred...didn't help that diff joint made b/w diff too wide lol

 

 

Do you know how much spline section is left on your axles?

 

If still got heaps of spline left can shave them down...saves heaps of coin if want housing narrowed down more.

Edited by gtrboyy, 07 February 2018 - 07:49 PM.

[gtrboyy]

Might have to put those Pro9 arms on shopping list for gtr.

 

Would prefer softer bushes than nolathane for street car.

Edited by gtrboyy, 07 February 2018 - 07:55 PM.

[gtrboyy]

It's hard to quote without fabshop actually looking at car in person then working out what can be reused...also quite easy to get carried away.

 

Reckon new standard housing with new mounts,bearing ends etc anywhere between 1.5-3k....using your centre/axles/brakes helps a great deal....most quotes for 31spline trutrac & housing 5k more or less...rough quotes I've gotten for mine

 

 

Cheap way out just means you'll just have to redo it all later & spend up twice...couple of good fabshops in Blacktown & Penrith areas worth having a chat to then decide best way to go with your budget.

 

 

 

 

[gtrboyy]

Or just raise with reset springs to fit 235 radial...do convertor & gears,look at rear end again when tired of powerskids .

 

Shiftright have good reputation & well priced.

[rexy]

You realistically have two choices.

1. Jack it up high and run stiff springs.

2. Bite the bullet and mini tub it.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Rodtech here in SA sell adjustable upper arms and were cheaper than all the others....

[gtrboyy]

Larger rims makes sidewall wider & less floaty at high speeds...by looking at pics 15x7 probably have rim & tyre sticking outside wheelarch.

 

Can see that tyre rubs enough to burn paint off & scuff tyres where sill blackout line is.

 

Jack it up & leave it on 15x6 rims with 235/60 untill you're sick of it.

Edited by gtrboyy, 08 February 2018 - 08:17 PM.

[gtrboyy]

Maybe put some steel rims with modified offset from morton & may for drag tyres if leaving diff alone.

 

As Rexy said end up with 2 options or just end up spending more money & wish you'd bit the bullet first time lol.

 

Nearly regretted v8 conversion in the lc gtr untill did rear end on it...totally changed the car & it was just 195i/getrag/3.9 lsd b/w

[gtrboyy]

No.2 Bit the bullet!!!!

 

Typical overkill with minitubs,coilovers,b/w 3.9 lsd & rear discs rolling on 18x8 granges with sticky s03 tyres...once got settings right it hooked up hard but diff joint screwed up diff width(too wide) & tyre rubbed same spot as yours when it squatted under power...could take 265/50 or maybe scrape 255/60 with stock wheel arcg

 

 

You'd get same result with narrowed diff,adjustable top arms & minor metalwork to inner wheelwells & it'd still look standard.

Edited by gtrboyy, 08 February 2018 - 08:53 PM.