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Aussie Four Speed Reverse Idler


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#1 toryman76

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Posted 10 February 2018 - 04:58 PM

Hi guys. After having issues with my gearbox leaking after it was rebuilt I had to drop the box and redo the gaskets. The box was built by a mechanic and not me. I then messed up fitting the reverse switch and some how managed to drop the ball bearing inside... So I had to remove the rear extension housing to retrieve it. I re fitted the housing following the max Ellery book and I was very careful to make sure the housing reverse idler thrust washer was located correctly as well as the reverse selector. All was sweet until I torqued bolts and spun the input shaft and it was stiff as. I now know that this was the reverse idler shaft binding. Long story short I now have a thrust washer on the inside of the box spinning with the idler shaft. I know this can only mean bad things but I'm hoping someone can tell me if I can get access to this washer without removing the main cluster? Also can you buy these washers individually?

#2 Bigfella237

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Posted 10 February 2018 - 07:41 PM

Part # 2813519 qty 2 if it helps, but nothing comes up on a google search so I suspect you'd need to rob one out of another box.

 

You're taxing my memory but I'm pretty sure you can pull the reverse idler shaft and remove the reverse idler gear with just the extension housing off, someone who's had one apart in the last twenty years might remember better?

 

Sounds like you didn't have the little tab on the back of the washer located in its groove? I think I used to stick them in place with a dob of grease before fitting the extension housing.

 

You certainly aren't the first to get caught by that damn ball bearing detent on the reverse selector either, in the end I used to jiggle everything into place with reverse selector still bolted up to save time, if I remember correctly you had to have the gearbox in neutral but the selector in reverse, then you slide the extension housing on low, lift it so the block engages in the reverse gear, then pull the selector out of reverse as you mate up the housing with the case, or something like that?

 

Back in my misspent youth I could strip and rebuild an Aussie four speed with my eyes closed, only takes about twenty minutes to put one back together once you've done it a hundred times!



#3 toryman76

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Posted 11 February 2018 - 07:44 AM

Thanks for the info bigfella! Greatly appreciated. When I first fitted the rear extension housing I used grease on the washer but unfortunately I wasn't paying attention to the one inside when I first assembled the housing. So my theory is that I must of had the washer on the inside cock about then when I bolted up the rear housing it flattened the tang on the washer inside.

#4 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 01:15 PM

You will have to drop the cluster. Don't use grease cos if u cock it up it will be another redo. Clean and dry the surfaces and use a smear of silastic to hold the washers.
How did u "redo" the gaskets? If you didn't use a gasket at all between the main and extension housing and only sealant or one that is too thin, the shafts won't turn freely either.

#5 toryman76

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 01:54 PM

The manual does say to cement them in place but I do not know of a cement that would withstand oil as well as be serviceable in the future without using something permanent. What goo would you suggest?

I originally did the ext housing without a gasket and just goo because the leaking oil was coming out between the housing and the gasket. The leaking gasket was fitted with aviation sealant. Once I did this without a gasket and it was binding up my theory was that the gasket must act like a shim and so that was where I thought I went wrong. Now I have done the gasket with a really thin smear of goo to take up any imperfections in the castings.

How much float should the reverse idler shaft have?

#6 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 04:15 PM

Yeah that's right, you definitely need the right gasket in there. I've had new gaskets leak using #3 as well. Try a very thin smear of silastic instead perhaps.
As said, use silastic/gasket goo/silicon on the thrust washers. It doesn't have to withstand oil it's just for the initial install. It's so easy to bump the thrust washers out of place when using only grease. Once the box is back together it doesn't matter if the silicon lets go, your thrust washers will still be in the right place.
No idea about end float. If everything is in good order i.e. Idler gear thrust faces not worn, thrust washers not worn and the correct gasket is used, I wouldn't even be concerned about end float. It is what it is.

#7 toryman76

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 06:57 AM

When you say the right gasket, the only supplier of them that I have found is Rare Spares. They are about 0.5-1mm thick and made of a Klinger product. Only reason I asked about float is that I noticed when I rotate the box as it is now, the idler floats about 1mm, which seems like a lot to me and I am worried that the tang on the new thrust washer may not be enough to locate it. I have managed to pick up a second hand washer is good condition so before I jump in and go again I want to be damn sure everything else with it is OK. Thanks heaps for your help Adam & Andrew you guys are giving me hope  :clap:






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