7 replies to this topic

[TrickyD]

Hi all,

 

Just after  some advice on heat and sound insulation for my LJ 4 door SL. Important info before I ask

 

• Has a new/reco'd everything in terms of running gear and the engine runs at normal operating temp (90o C at the radiator which is a refurbed unit). HQ racing spec 202
• Needs new insulation for the floor pan
• Was considering putting some on the heater box inside the engine bay, so the vent doesn't blow hot engine air through the cabin

 

Any suggestions for a good peel and stick product for the heater box and floor pan would be appreciated. Does anyone know how good resomat is at heat insulation?

 

Cheers Mick

[Ice]

Dynamat or Resomat both good for heat insulation dont know about putting it on the heater box though

[TrickyD]

Thanks Gene,

 

Do you know of another way of making the vent air not have the heat of the engine bay?

[madtoranajzedded]

The air comes through the grill in front of
your front window ,not from enginebay so
wont make any difference putting it on the
heater box.

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 01 March 2018 - 11:02 AM.

[TrickyD]

The air comes through the grill in front of
your front window ,not from enginebay so
wont make any difference putting it on the
heater box.

 

Yeah found that, but after the air comes through the grill in front of the windscreen but then goes through the heater box which of course is in the engine bay and I gather the vent air is a product of the heat coming from the engine bay. I'm going to put thermal insulation on the the whole floor pan but I don't think that will have any effect on the vent air.

 

When you first start the car the vent air is cool but when the engine is at operating temp the vent air is hot, wonder if there is a way I can bypass the air coming through the grill to miss the heater box and go straight to the cabin?

 

Does anyone know if this has been done before?

[Lc69]

The heater box flaps don’t seal perfectly and there is no heater tap in the circuit so the heater core is perminatly hot once the engine is at temperature.
So the air passing through the heater box into the car could easily be hotter than expected even when you have the selector on cold.
The selector can also be hit and miss if the control wire is bent or not adjusted properly.

Have a look at the heater box builds on here and you will get an idea of how they work.

I have considered putting a heater tap inline so the heater core could be bypassed when cold air is selected.
Otherwise, you could just bypass the heater core all together.....only problem is you won’t have a heated dimister......which I believe is required to be legal.

[TrickyD]

The heater box flaps don’t seal perfectly and there is no heater tap in the circuit so the heater core is perminatly hot once the engine is at temperature.
So the air passing through the heater box into the car could easily be hotter than expected even when you have the selector on cold.
The selector can also be hit and miss if the control wire is bent or not adjusted properly.

Have a look at the heater box builds on here and you will get an idea of how they work.

I have considered putting a heater tap inline so the heater core could be bypassed when cold air is selected.
Otherwise, you could just bypass the heater core all together.....only problem is you won’t have a heated dimister......which I believe is required to be legal.

 

 

Cheers Tony,

 

Thanks for your help

 

Might look at a way at channeling the air from the grill in front of the windscreen to bypass the heater box, make a secondary vent if you like. 

 

Lol, now I've got interior out - discovered I'm going to need drivers side floor pan

[Lc69]

I’ve been there done that. All,of my floor pans have been replaced, painted, dynomat, carbuilders foam underlay.
Rebuilt heater, new foam, fixed cables somflaps work etc.
I’m not convinced redirecting the air will help you, but see how you go.