653 replies to this topic

[Shiney005]

What colour is it going to be Mitch?

[tsn007]

looks like it was a fairly rust free shell , which is rare these days

you have done a great job so far

 

cheers

[Mitchyboy]

What colour is it going to be Mitch?

Hey Shiney
Barbados green has always been the plan!!
I wanna have the black bonnet a9x style but i want the blacked out rear end l34 style. Figured its not an original i can get away with having the best of both worlds.
I plan to do all the primer stages but I want the colour done professionally.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

looks like it was a fairly rust free shell , which is rare these days
you have done a great job so far

cheers

Thanks mate
I panel at a time

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Shiney005]

Always been my favourite!

 

 small (1).jpg   197.92K   20 downloads

[76lxhatch]

The guy said it was an m21 but after looking online at how to determine your muncie and counting the splines and looking at the gears it looks like its an m22 rock crusher. What a steal.

Not to burst your bubble but with a 10 spline input shaft it can't be an M22, will be an early M20 or M21. Good box regardless though.

Looks like you're making quick progress.

[Mitchyboy]

Not to burst your bubble but with a 10 spline input shaft it can't be an M22, will be an early M20 or M21. Good box regardless though.

Looks like you're making quick progress.

Really? Im confused
Just going off the super chevy forum/website info
As u can see in the pic no rings - 10 spline input m22 1967-1970
Thats what my one counts.
Is there another way to tell?
Ill take a photo of the gears and see what u think.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[76lxhatch]

Interesting, I didn't think the M22 ever came in a 10 spline version, you can see what I meant by 'early' with the year. The ring count is notoriously unreliable, count the turns in first gear to figure out what the ratio is, that will tell you for sure.

It won't bother you unless you have a big block anyway, as I said still a good box. Ideally you don't want the very early M20 as it has a smaller layshaft but pretty much every variation is better than the Saginaw and especially the Aussie 4 speed originally used by Holden.

[Holdenbn74]

Love watching another getting reborn 👍 good work.

[Lima31]

Nice work fella

 

If you want be sure on the gearbox, open up the side cover and post a photo of the gears.  M21 Muncie is still a great transmission, hurst still sells great shifters for them.

[Mitchyboy]

Nice work fella

If you want be sure on the gearbox, open up the side cover and post a photo of the gears. M21 Muncie is still a great transmission, hurst still sells great shifters for them.

Cheers mate
I will do next week when im back in town.
Keen to see the verdict

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Mitchyboy]

Let me know what u think fellas?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Lima31]

.

Edited by Lima31, 13 October 2018 - 06:09 PM.

[Lima31]

Looks like an M21 gearset.  Still a great transmission, I have one.

 

The casing should have a serial stamping starting with P and ending with B if it came out of the factory that way.

 

See http://www.5speeds.c...tion/id-basics/ for more info.

[Mitchyboy]

Looks like an M21 gearset. Still a great transmission, I have one.

The casing should have a serial stamping starting with P and ending with B if it came out of the factory that way.

See http://www.5speeds.c...tion/id-basics/ for more info.

Thanks Lima

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Mitchyboy]

So it's been a long time since I posted any updates.
I am accident prone!
I broke my left thumb playing cricket on new years day and haven't really touched the car since last year. The Chrissy rush and been so busy To start the year off.
I finally rolled the old girl out today and literally spent all day with a wire brush on a grinder knocking off the 3 - 4 month's worth of surface rust from all.of my exposed bare metal which I didn't treat properly

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[Mitchyboy]

I had a play with the plenum moulding back to where it needs to go and prepping ready to make my fill in panel next Saturday
I also spent over an hour panel beating the top bonnet rail/radiator rail back to straight
It had more hits than Elvis.
Got it pretty good I think

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[Mitchyboy]

I decided to fish oil all he bare metal whilst I'm working on it to prevent having to go through that again. What a punish.


Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[Mitchyboy]

Any advice on what to do about this?
I've been told it was done to my car in order to fit a hq radiator at some point in it's life.
I have heated it up and bent it back to straight. Should I weld it up or is that too risky with the chassis stamp there?
Help ?

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[Shiney005]

I would cut a small bit of plate to put under it first. That way you can keep the weld nice and hot and do the job in one pass. You should be able to keep the bead nice and flat so you don't need to go near it with a grinder.  Some of the spatter prevention paint on the chassis number wouldn't go astray either.  (Disclaimer... I'm just a farmer who usually fixes stuff with fencing wire and big hammers!!!) 

[Bigfella237]

It depends on: 1) how good a welder you are; and 2) how fussy you are about hiding those cuts?

 

If you only have a MIG, I'd be tempted to just spot weld the outer edges of the lip to add a little strength to the middle tab and not weld anywhere near the chassis number. You will still have the open slots but at least you have a plausible excuse for why the stamping was damaged when Mr Plod raises his eyebrow. Whereas if you burn out half the "B" or cover it in 'bird poop' weld then it may look like someone was trying to alter the number and, at the very least, you may have to get a police number issued and re-stamped?

 

If you have a TIG then you may be able to sneak up on the stamping with a very low heat, and then maybe try to carefully repair the "B" by hand once everything else is cleaned up?

 

Or if you wanted to do it 'proper' then you would need to unpick that entire panel, then do the repair on the chassis rail separately to the upper panel, then spot weld it back on?

 

If this is a genuine SL/R then I would do everything I could to try to keep the original number intact, but if it's just a poverty pack on the tags then it likely won't affect the value that much.

 

[rodomo]

Get close with mig then bog would be my tip.

Strong enough and no heat (grinder) to clean up.

Edited by rodomo, 25 March 2019 - 09:30 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

It depends on: 1) how good a welder you are; and 2) how fussy you are about hiding those cuts?

If you only have a MIG, I'd be tempted to just spot weld the outer edges of the lip to add a little strength to the middle tab and not weld anywhere near the chassis number. You will still have the open slots but at least you have a plausible excuse for why the stamping was damaged when Mr Plod raises his eyebrow. Whereas if you burn out half the "B" or cover it in 'bird poop' weld then it may look like someone was trying to alter the number and, at the very least, you may have to get a police number issued and re-stamped?

If you have a TIG then you may be able to sneak up on the stamping with a very low heat, and then maybe try to carefully repair the "B" by hand once everything else is cleaned up?

Or if you wanted to do it 'proper' then you would need to unpick that entire panel, then do the repair on the chassis rail separately to the upper panel, then spot weld it back on?

If this is a genuine SL/R then I would do everything I could to try to keep the original number intact, but if it's just a poverty pack on the tags then it likely won't affect the value that much.

Thanks for the advice big fella. It's not an original SLR so I won't be doing the unpicking method that's for sure.


Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Get close with mig then bog would be my tip.
Strong enough and no heat (grinder) to clean up.

Thanks mate
That is what i am leaning towards to be honest.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[Rockoz]

Find a bit of copper pipe and hammer it flat.

Put thet under the cuts before you weld them.

Will help make it neater.

Bits of copper pipe are handy for many little welding jobs.

[Shiney005]

For mig Rob?

[Mitchyboy]

Find a bit of copper pipe and hammer it flat.
Put thet under the cuts before you weld them.
Will help make it neater.
Bits of copper pipe are handy for many little welding jobs.

Thanks bud
I'm all over that one
Been using that trick since the start - been plenty of holes etc haha

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk