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186 performance build Lj Torana


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#26 dron

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 01:54 PM

              I just found it listed as stage 2 and 3 on different sites. It is listed as having 110 deg lobe separation 214 deg at 50th and 108 deg inlet center 2000 to 5000 rpm and use a 2000 stall on an auto. I would expect that would be a good derivable cam on street, fair but not smooth idle  with a ported head, good manifold and headers. Close to what I would pick if I was building a 6. I am not an expert on holden red 6 cams though.

 

                        On my red head stroked 308 I went 218 @ 50th with a lobe separation of 110 and an inlet center line of 106.0. I had a lot of people tell me to go bigger but the result was a slightly rough idle and a good derivable car that goes hard for what I have done. 

 

                       I would not go any bigger if you want to drive it as a cruiser with the occasional run to scare the locals. Different story if you are building an animal though



#27 Ice

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 02:34 PM

I got a cm205d stage 2 cam that’s in the parts I got with car as well , looking at the specs it’s a stage 2 cam fur.050” 214/214vlift
, it’s looks like it’s the biggest stage 2 in the dynote before it goes stage 3 , it looks near on new , could be a good street cam , what do you think

With all the other go gear you got and a good ignition system that would be a pretty good combo but def go 202

Red 6s are a funny engine sometimes the simple combos go better than the big $$ ones

#28 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 03:00 PM

Your going to run triple carbs, a decent head, ignition and exhaust and by the sound if it all the other good bits. That cam is too small, you will get bored and regret it.

#29 natcamp10

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 03:32 PM

So Ive be been lookking at hyx50 profile cut this looks a bit wilder but still streetable specs are
@ dur.50 inlet =226 ,cam lift =.306,valve lift @1.5.1 =.459 ....2500rpm to 6200rpm
Ex. @ dur .50 =224. , cam lift =.292 .. valve lift @1.5.1 = .438

#30 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 04:00 PM

Are you going to run a hydraulic or solid lifter cam? Didn't you have aspirations of 240 HP in your initial post?
You won't get near that with a mild hydraulic.

#31 natcamp10

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 04:30 PM

Yeah Would love to get 240 but how streetable would it be , correct this specs for a hyd cam
What are the Main gains for a solid cam over a hyd (valve bounce at high rpm ) I’m thinking
What would your recommends red for a cam
To still stay semi streetable but good hp ..there is a compermise here I beginning to realise

#32 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 05:04 PM

How much do you plan on driving this thing?? You start to lose count of how many times you hear the cliche a big cam will be a pig on the street. I personally don't agree but that's just my opinion. My old cam had 250 degrees duration iv just put one in with 266 degrees of duration. In an LJ with a lightened flywheel and 4.11 gears yeah you have to work but I don't mind it. I do only drive mine say fortnightly maybe tho. Just google solid vs hydraulic and have a read mate, easier than writing an essay.
I think you should whack in a solid with no less than 240 degrees duration but again that's just me and I'm biased.
If your not confident checking lash periodically get your head done, flowed then talk to a cam grinder about an aggressive hydraulic to suit your setup and HP goal. You might be aiming too high if your concerned about drivability.

#33 natcamp10

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 08:46 PM

Red I’m sold mate , I only drive it once to twice a month looking at the 35872 solid from crow , check it out a nd comment what you think , will stud the head for roller rockers with guide plates, stud the head and run a crank girdle as well
Do know where I can find those rattler harmonic balancers that old John goes on about in the article how to build a performance six ,been looking but can’t find
So next question , gear box and diff
First suggestion
M21 box or gear set in a m20 box or stay with a w50 box with tall diff ratio , I’m not one to rip tyres up ..I say that now lol but would a nicely built m20 hanging there or a munchie box . Think I that right

#34 Ice

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 10:27 PM

I ran the 35626 solid crow cam with a Saginaw gearbox and 3.55 lsd would rev to 7000 rpm if you wanted it to
bigger valve lift cam

#35 Ice

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 10:33 PM

Give it a little bit of balls

#36 warrenm

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 10:54 PM

Rattler Harmonic Balancers.

http://www.tciauto.c...-absorbershtml/

 

 

Not a direct fit.



#37 natcamp10

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 10:59 PM

Yup I’m sold
Give it a little bit more only being a monthly driver
So I’ve been reading a lot about the alternatives to Aussie boxes , where can I find one of these bad girls
I was always told w50 boxes were the go

Nice thanks warren 🍺
That’s what I’m after

#38 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 07:32 AM

Mate if your not budget conscious get a close ratio Muncie, it will not break. If your not highway driving forget about the 5 speed.
Are you just running a Banjo rear end?
On the right track with the cam, Genes suggestion is a bigger cam although it's dual pattern (may not suit your head) don't just limit yourself to looking at Crow cams either, many better ones out there.
Sounds like you are going to build this pretty bullet proof. Turning it hard, Weber fed, only driving it once a month, 240HP goal? Don't skimp on the cam! Something around 250 degrees duration at 0.050" i think.

#39 natcamp10

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 03:26 PM

Yeah got a banjo , I’ve got a couple of centres to go through before I change . I will try the m21 gears into m20 box and try and find a 3.9 diff see how it goes , 3.9 were auto ratio weren’t they ?

#40 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 03:39 PM

There's 3.9 limited slip on eBay for 5 hundy atm. Won't find one much cheaper in the current market.

#41 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 04:47 PM

 I tend to agree, a cam with about 248@50 thou on 107 centres with decent lift will make a peppy ride without being silly. Plenty of cams available with similar specs. You just need to make sure you are running enough static compression to run a cam like this without causing a boggy bottom end. 



#42 S pack

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 05:41 PM

3.9 were auto ratio weren’t they ?

 

Common in Sunbird's I believe.

Behind a 6cyl in LC & LJ the 2.78:1 was the std ratio with trimatic.
 



#43 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 06:24 PM

Keep the heavy flywheel.with a lightened flywheel you
lose inertia meaning you need more torque from a standing start than would otherwise with a heavy flywheel.speedway
would b the only time a lighten flywheel would b
beneficial..

#44 natcamp10

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 09:21 PM

So I think I’m just about close the deal on that 3.9 diff cheers red for the heads up 👍
And thanks to all who have respond
Yup think your right s pack I researched it just after I posted

#45 natcamp10

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 09:27 PM

Been looking a lot at cams but struggling a lot to find info on other brands , crow put up on there website some good details , whats some alternative brands can I look at with specs , I do a lot of purchasing online , I tried summit racing lol they didn’t Evan list the old Holden motor

#46 warrenm

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Posted 26 April 2018 - 11:52 PM

www.camtechcams.com.au

www.clivecams.com.au/

tighecams.com.au



#47 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 07:49 AM

www.camtechcams.com.au

www.clivecams.com.au/

tighecams.com.au

 

+1



#48 natcamp10

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 10:43 AM

Cheers warrenm 👍

#49 natcamp10

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 11:31 AM

Warrenm when you say with the rattler balancer not direct fit , I assuming I will need to machine the crank to get it on if so have you done this and which balancer should I be getting 👍

#50 warrenm

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Posted 27 April 2018 - 11:38 PM

Oldjohnno fitted one to a Holden 6, which from memory required welding up the centre of the balancer, then machining the centre to suit the Holden crank snout. I think he used a balancer to fit a Hemi. I did a similar thing using an ATI Super Damper.

 

http://www.gmh-toran...monic-balancer/






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