239 replies to this topic

[yel327]

The small reservoir is always the rear circuit as far as I am aware, the photos Laurie put up is the older type with the front brake reservoir at the front (round on lid). The later ones are designed with a cutout so the fluid shared between the reservoirs.

Here is the later type:
https://www.ebay.com...hcAAOSwyTtdRJzH

The different threads are supposed to move with the reservoirs, but I have an aftermarket one here that didn’t so the rear brake reservoir at the front was connected to the front discs and vice versa, so didn’t work right with the check valve I the discs and an open port on the drums.

Datto might have some better info than me for you too.

Edited by yel327, 18 December 2019 - 07:37 PM.

[yel327]

As you say, check valve, big thread. But not always. I have a new PBR arsed up one here.

[dattoman]

Greetings

 

Holdens are always supposed to be large thread to the rear brakes

 

Many aftermarket cylinders are cast wrong (cause they use the same casting for both early and late cyls and just thread the holes as needed)

Not a huge issue... if they have also cut away the centre section of the master to allow fluid to move about

[rodomo]

Do line locks solenoids work both ways?
Lock front brakes on and Lock out rears whole still having full front brake control?

How they normally work is foot on brake, active line lock, foot off brake which then traps pressure in the system (front or rear, usually front) then release lock switch to launch.

That solenoid has only 2 ports which would suggest either front or rear locking on later split system brakes.

Subaru had a factory fitted line locker called a "hill holder"

https://www.google.c...f=1576759573238

[76lxhatch]

Most aftermarket line locks like the B&M 'roll control' (possibly what you have there) must be installed in the right direction, they will act like a one-way valve when activated. They also reccomend you don't use them for more than a minute or two at a time.

You can either use them to lock the fronts on as rodomo described (and you can hit the brake pedal before or after switching it on), or you can reverse the direction and install on the rear circuit to stop the rear brakes from applying - more useful for automatics where you have a spare foot, but gives you the additional control you're talking about.

[LXCHEV]

Agree with both comments above regarding the line locker:

 

(i) The traditional method of installation was in the front brake line: foot on brake pedal, activate the solenoid, then foot off pedal. Front brakes are now locked on. Commence burnout. Release switch when ready to go.

 

(ii) Option 2 - which I what I've done - and at least half a dozen mates - is install the solenoid backwards (reverse direction) in the rear brake line. This now means you activate it first (ensuring your foot is NOT on the brake pedal), and then once activated, you are now free to apply the brakes on and off as often as you like, and they will only operate the front brakes, effectively making the rear brakes in-operable.

 

And yep - they're only designed for short bursts of use. I've wrecked 2 of the B&M ones.

[yel327]

I have one at home with a key switch and a one way valve in it when key is switched. It goes in the front brake circuit. So park car and turn key on and take key with you........Crooks steak car and use brakes for the first time. Front brakes lock on, they are left in middle of intersection doing a burnout trying to take off. HJ Ute got pinched with this in, found 200m away at traffic lights with doors open.

[LXCHEV]

Haha excellent!

[Shtstr]

You could also install a tap on the rear brake line to turn brakes on or off. Just like a ball valve tap. Can buy the fittings at any brake shop and get the ball valve tap at most aswell. This way no electrics to worry about and you activate it from under the car so no change of knocking it when in the car moving around. Seen this set up use on burn out cars. Also a good security device as you can lock the brakes and walk away and not worry about electrics. just make sure brakes are cooled down to reduce heat sink in the rotors.

[Bigfella237]

We used to have a valve with a lever on it in one of the old tow trucks... stand on the pedal, pull the lever and it'd lock all four wheels up, which was good for winching cars back onto the road. Unfortunately it worked in reverse too, if you pulled the lever without pressing the pedal then it completely disabled the entire braking system (you only made that mistake once I can tell ya)!

 

Not sure if you'd want to leave a brake system pressurised for any length of time though (like overnight), I think you might find it would leak down over time?

[Bigfella237]

You could try unscrewing the oil pressure switch/sender/sensor/gauge fitting from the oil pump and squirting some oil in there to fill the pump, then refit and crank.

 

Some say this works, some say it doesn't, but it has for me in the past and it's a lot easier than dismantling the oil pump. If it doesn't work then it hasn't really cost you anything to try?

 

The amount of oil pressure you'll get on the starter depends on a few different things, but the figure doesn't really matter just so long as you get some pressure, it might only be a pound or two but at least you know everything's working.

[rexy]

It should spin fairly easily and quickly with all the plugs out. It can take a suprisingly long time for a dry holden V8 to make oil pressure. It took over a minute of cranking with the plugs out to get oil pressure in the yellow LJ after a change of sump and pickup.

[Shiney005]

It will always be an uphill battle getting a battery to hold a full charge once it has been totally flat for any longer than a few weeks.

[76lxhatch]

You probably won't get enough oil pressure to move the gauge just by cranking it. As long as the pump is primed it will be fine, just make sure you check it gets pressure on first start.

 

If you have one of those grease-gun-style oil pumps wrap a bit of tape around the end so its a snug fit into the centre of the oil filter mount and you can prime all the galleries in 10 seconds flat.

[76lxhatch]

Mounts for aftermarket (front-mounted) anti-roll (sway) bar links? I have a similar thing on the bottom arm, also not sure they'd be particularly effective that close to the pivot.

[Cook]

Yep, same as mine but not bolted that close as 76lxhatch has said.  From whiteline swaybar kit. Can post up the fitting instructions if you like or I think you can get them off Whiteline web site. Cheers Ron