Went to rares today.
Got the UCA bump stops thanks for the tip Ron
Bit of a knack to getting them in using the little slot on the hole and spinning em in. That probably makes no sense.
The heater box clips were out of stock but he reckons they are completely different. I still wouldn’t mind seeing one for size.
I do like the nut and bolt idea and some nice fitting rectangular washers will help it all align nicer, the fit is a bit rough on the halves.
There was a lil bit of sealant schmoo when I pulled it apart.
I never re schmoo’d it.
Any ideas? If anyone is reading this.
I’m thinking some of that windscreen sealant.
Was never happy with the Aeroflow dipstick in the engine.
Was touching the headers although I silicon sleeved it, it will still melt and probably catch fire.
I don’t want that, so trying to see if I can get a steel one bent in the right shape to fit properly and seal.
That’s been the last 2hours.
When the dipstick is sorted I can fit the front crossmember.
Machined the HQ rotors again.
Took another 4mm off em to get em to fit.
Took 7mm of em the first time.
I have a theory where I may have gone wrong here.
Seem that people who have done the HQ rotors and calipers on torana stub, state that taking 1/4 or 6mm off the rotor is enough.
My question is that a
1/4in or 6mm cut in a lathe, meaning 1/2 12mm off the diameter of the rotor
Or
1/4 or 6mm off the diameter.
Coz 6mm off the diameter doesn’t work with either of the calipers cast PBR and alloy PBR
I’m thinking it’s the 12mm off the diameter of the rotor
I have taken about 11mm and it’s good now and spin with outlet rubbing inside the caliper.