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LS1 Extractors


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#1 _1275greg_

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 07:11 PM

Hi all, has anyone had any recent experience with off the shelf extractors for LS into an Lx, I've been playing with standard LS2 manifolds without much luck, just cant get enough clearance around the steering shaft.

Castle headers and the rod shop seem to be the main ones or am i missing an option, before i make my own?

Cheers

Greg



#2 rodomo

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Posted 26 May 2018 - 10:14 PM

Look at modifying the steering shaft on this forum. Double uni joint I believe is the fix?

#3 Bigfella237

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 01:50 AM

Be careful with those Castle / CRS headers, I can't remember which ones but some of them require the starter motor to be moved over to the passenger's side, which is a huge PITA.

 

And some require you to use certain brands of engine mounts, plus your choice of sump may play a part too.

 

Just make sure you ask whoever you order them from before handing over the folding stuff...



#4 _1275greg_

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 07:09 AM

Thanks for the replies, I've been playing around with the double uni set up, and it does helps bit but my biggest issue is I've moved the engine forward slightly to be able to run the a/c pump in its factory location it's only 1/2 inch but is enough.
I know I will have to modify anything I buy but just weighing up if that is easier than building from scratch? Might have to move the engine back and high mount the pump?

#5 BIG KEV

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 07:47 AM

When fitting a LS motor into a Torana everything needs to be modified 

i run a LS2 motor stroked to 408 not that that maters with a 6 speed Magnum box 

Motor runs all LS1 bolt on yes there is reason for this 

i removed the factory mounts on the K-Frame and made my own set up 

modified steering and custom extractors 4 into 1 

i have all the bolt on stuff from Power steering and A/C

These motors were never designed for Toranas so everything is a nightmare 

At the end of the day just get your motor in there sitting where you want and ask around for a good exhaust shop and let them do their magic 

yes you will pay but its all done and fits 

There is nothing of the shelf that fit because there is so many variables 

Hope this helps 

Kevin



#6 _1275greg_

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 09:18 AM

Cheers Kev, I didn't expect a simple bolt in fit when I started, the hatch is only being built as a cruiser so not looking for the ultimate performance, I have the ability to do any fab work needed just looking at options
Cheers

#7 neglectedtorana

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Posted 31 May 2018 - 08:40 PM

Greg you can see the LS2 headers Grant used in his hatch in the following, the pic of the heads, manifold etc. has them on the floor

I think there is only one type of LS2 headers that fit, I tried these but had issues with the steering

I did consider fitting a pipe directly into the headers and cut the flange off but I don't know how I would join the pipe to the headers

Eventually I bought a kit from Di Fillipo exhaust that came with a selection of pieces to weld together into a set of detractors

The kit was about$500

http://www.gmh-toran...h-build/page-14

Here's the link to find the header pics

#8 BIG KEV

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Posted 31 May 2018 - 08:48 PM

I think i have a set of those LS2 headers lying around in the shed 



#9 _1275greg_

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 07:30 AM

Thanks for the reply Tom, do you happen to know the part no. of those manifolds, mine look the same but I'm guessing there might be more than one type.

Think it might b time to buy a box of bends and start swearing lol.

Kev ill get back to you if get more info, as I've now cut mine up to see if i could get them to work.

cheers 



#10 neglectedtorana

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 10:29 AM

like kev i have a set in the shed, some numbers on them but the numbers may be just for the alloy heat shield i dont know. numbers visible in pics

 

also these might be an option, if you could send them back if they dont fit it would be worth the try

 

http://www.vpw.com.a...ry/Index/531482

 

Attached File  P1120109.JPG   153.33K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  P1120111.JPG   161.44K   1 downloads

 



i think i struggled with the flange clearing the steering that is why i was looking for ways to cut the flange off and weld a piece of pipe on but welding cast iron is something i am unsure about



#11 BIG KEV

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 01:24 PM

I think there is 3 types of these header and i believe its only the HSV ones thats might work 

I will try and post a pic of them later 



#12 _1275greg_

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 09:46 PM

Thanks for that, they look to be the same manifolds that I have been playing with and the flange area is the issue for me also, I am running the engine forward slightly more than others I have looked at to allow me room to run the standard a/c pump which wouldn't be helping my issues.

Kev, that would be good to see, I have wondered about the hsv ones, being tubular not cast they would also be easier to modify?



#13 BIG KEV

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 01:07 AM

I dont think your going to have much luck with A/C and normal or after market mounts as the A/C is in the way of the mount on the K-Frame 

I removed my mounts of the K-Frame and made my own removable setup ....i think you can see a pic of this in my build thread 



#14 BIG KEV

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 01:12 AM

Sorry i should say to that the standard mounts on the K-Frame are set way forward 

My build Thread ......The 6LT Project



#15 _1275greg_

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 09:06 AM

Engine is in with the a/c in position, very tight but fits, the engine sits about 3/4” forward than the couple of others I’ve looked at which also helps with the shifter position as I’m just running the standard t56 with an aftermarket shifter and the gear stick backwards so it’s bent towards the front not the back if you get my drift?? I’ll check out your build tonight when I get back to work, nap time now




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