30 replies to this topic

[Liz Clare]

G'Day,

 

Need a bit of help, please

 

The heater core in the hatch decided to burst yesterday, suddenly steamed up my windscreen whilst driving which made for an interesting time trying to pull over to the side of the road when I couldn't actually see the side of the road.

 

I have a stupid question here so I apologise in advance...

 

When the heater is turned off does that mean that the heater and associated hoses are disconnected from the rest of the cooling system so that I can still drive the car without draining the radiator water into the burst heater?

 

I did have to drive home like that yesterday and the engine temp gauge was all okay. I can't get into the workshop this week and the car is entered in the MCM as a display....Damn it.

 

 LX SS the calm before the storm_burst heater core.jpg   125.83K   9 downloads

This pic is the calm before the storm, so to speak..

 

Any help is very much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Bigfella237]

Unless it was a factory A/C then the answer is no, the heater core is full flow all the time.

 

The only thing you can do temporarily is to bypass the heater core in the engine bay by removing one of the heater hoses and running it back into the other port on the thermostat housing / water pump.

 

Unfortunately that's gonna look a bit ugly at a car show.

 

If you want to take the risk of wet carpet (if it isn't already) you could drive with the radiator cap on the first click instead of all the way done up, that won't allow the cooling system to pressurise, and if it's only a pinhole in the core it probably won't leak more than a drip every now and again.

 

This is a bush mechanics fix for emergency use only, but on a cold day you should get away with a short journey, just drive steady and keep a close eye on the temp gauge and the coolant level, AND CARRY SPARE WATER!

[Liz Clare]

Unless it was a factory A/C then the answer is no, the heater core is full flow all the time.

 

The only thing you can do temporarily is to bypass the heater core in the engine bay by removing one of the heater hoses and running it back into the other port on the thermostat housing / water pump.

 

Unfortunately that's gonna look a bit ugly at a car show.

 

If you want to take the risk of wet carpet (if it isn't already) you could drive with the radiator cap on the first click instead of all the way done up, that won't allow the cooling system to pressurise, and if it's only a pinhole in the core it probably won't leak more than a drip every now and again.

 

This is a bush mechanics fix for emergency use only, but on a cold day you should get away with a short journey, just drive steady and keep a close eye on the temp gauge and the coolant level, AND CARRY SPARE WATER!

Oh no, that's bad news but thanks Andrew.

 

Yep, water was pouring out onto the floor and my foot, at every right hand turn yesterday. I need to have a look under the dash as maybe its a hose that's come loose?

 

Hope I haven't stuffed the engine driving it home.

 

Far Out!!! Two Toranas and both off the road... :( I'm not a happy camper today..

 

Appreciate the help though.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

 

Is there any chance of a pic of your bypass suggestion? Probably won't make MCM though as it's a 2 hour drive.

[Rockoz]

Common problem with older cars.

Radiator guy explained it to me years ago when I had the same drama with my VB.

The heater radiator cores are 7lb rated.

The rest of the cooling system is 15lb rated.

The weakest link fails eventually.

Had my core redone with a 15lb core.

 

You may be able to get a short "accordion style" hose to bypass your heater core so it doesnt look too bad.

Alternatively you could find a piece of wooden dowel to fit down the hose and put another clamp on it, on both hoses, to effectively block the heater core off.

[Bigfella237]

There are no hoses under the dash to come loose. Unlike A/C evaporators, which need a drain tube to get rid of any condensation, heater boxes (normally) don't have water sloshing around inside them, so any leakage drains straight onto the carpet instead.

 

Just having a look for pictures specifically from your car...

 

A couple of engine bay pics

 

...

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

 

...and having the heated intake manifold complicates things slightly, but you have several options.

 

The first (and most difficult) would be to disconnect the two hoses from the heater core itself, this will need to be done to change the core over anyway. Then find a joiner of some sort to connect the two hoses together:

 

 

Second option is to disconnect the hose off the inlet manifold and run it directly to the water pump:

 

 

And thirdly the easiest option, you could bypass the inlet manifold altogether and just run a short hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump:

 

 

Of course you could just buy some blanking plugs from an auto parts store and block off the thermostat housing and water pump ports completely, buy then you won't have a thermostat bypass circuit, which I wouldn't recommend, but should be okay in an emergency...

 

[Liz Clare]

Thanks Rob, yeah workshop is going to blank it off tomorrow so that I can still make MCM on the weekend. YaY!

 

Bloody cars eh! Love em but what a pain in the arse!

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Liz Clare]

There are no hoses under the dash to come loose. Unlike A/C evaporators, which need a drain tube to get rid of any condensation, heater boxes (normally) don't have water sloshing around inside them, so any leakage drains straight onto the carpet instead.

 

Just having a look for pictures specifically from your car...

 

 

...and having the heated intake manifold complicates things slightly, but you have several options.

 

The first (and most difficult) would be to disconnect the two hoses from the heater core itself, this will need to be done to change the core over anyway. Then find a joiner of some sort to connect the two hoses together:

 

 

Second option is to disconnect the hose off the inlet manifold and run it directly to the water pump:

 

 

And thirdly the easiest option, you could bypass the inlet manifold altogether and just run a short hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump:

 

 

Of course you could just buy some blanking plugs from an auto parts store and block off the thermostat housing and water pump ports completely, buy then you won't have a thermostat bypass circuit, which I wouldn't recommend, but should be okay in an emergency...

Thank you very much Andrew, great detail there. Workshop said he will blank it off but now that I have your info I will double check exactly what he plans to do compared to these pics.

 

Thanks again for the help, it is very much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Bigfella237]

I also wanted to mention that you may have to remove your front seats, console and the front carpet to dry it out properly once the core is changed.

 

If the carpet stays wet for more than a few days then you will probably have mould problems? I've had mould on carpet before and spraying Glen20 on both sides does an amazing job of killing the mould. Then give it a stiff brush and a good vacuum and it should be good as new.

[Liz Clare]

I also wanted to mention that you may have to remove your front seats, console and the front carpet to dry it out properly once the core is changed.

 

If the carpet stays wet for more than a few days then you will probably have mould problems? I've had mould on carpet before and spraying Glen20 on both sides does an amazing job of killing the mould. Then give it a stiff brush and a good vacuum and it should be good as new.

Thanks Andrew, yes I'm not looking forward to that job. I was thinking I could put some Bi-carb down as a temporary measure to soak up any moisture over the next few days. What a pain in the arse !!..

 

Glen20 is on the shopping list

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[arrimar]

The broom stick up the hose is the go.
And if you use a dessicant pack (damp rid?) to absorb the moisture put it inside a bucket. It stains if spilt. Ask Brad

[hanra]

Yeah that shit sux

3 wet vacs later.

[TerrA LX]

DON'T drive it till you check the coolant level, if it leaked out your temp gauge may not be reading correctly.

[Liz Clare]

Thanks guys, manager to limp it to the workshop with radiator cap on first click. Have gone through plenty of coolant.



I think it’s a bit beyond the silicon moisture things..

Cheers,

Liz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys, managed to limp it to the workshop with radiator cap on first click. Have gone through plenty of coolant.



I think it’s a bit beyond the silicon moisture things..

Cheers,

Liz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bigfella237]

Yuk

 

Yeah, I reckon that carpet should come out ASAP and be hosed off thoroughly... it may never be the same colour again!

[hanra]

Seats out. Console out. Carpet out. Underlay out.

[Liz Clare]

Yep. As soon as it’s back from the workshop I’ll get straight into it.

It’s got the original underlay made from horse hair I think so maybe that will never come good after being soaked in coolant, not sure.

I’ve never taken a console out before so I’m hoping it’s fairly straight forward. Any tips would be much appreciated

Cheers,

Liz


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[hanra]

Id be doing that right now.

[Liz Clare]

Id be doing that right now.

He's just going to blank off the heater so that it's drivable without fear of cooking the engine then I will get it back to the garage today and it'll all come out.

 

Any tips on getting console out? Is it an easy removal or are there tricks I need to know about?

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Bigfella237]

Hatches are a bit trickier than sedans, there's four screws that hold the console to the floor, plus two screws that hold it to the dash (if they got put back in), but you have an extra two screws to remove the switch panel so you can access the front floor screws, if that makes sense?

 

A picture is worth a thousand words...

 

[Liz Clare]

Hatches are a bit trickier than sedans, there's four screws that hold the console to the floor, plus two screws that hold it to the dash (if they got put back in), but you have an extra two screws to remove the switch panel so you can access the front floor screws, if that makes sense?

 

A picture is worth a thousand words...

Thanks for the details, Andrew.

 

I had a feeling there would be something a bit tricky about it. Hopefully I can get it all out this arvo and start the process of cleaning up the carpet and that underlay...

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Bigfella237]

I was also going to say, don't clean the carpet and put it straight back in without making sure there's no residual coolant sitting in the heater box, otherwise it will just spill all over your freshly cleaned carpet.

 

Normally I'd say leave the carpet out until you can get the core changed but I know that messes with your travel plans.

 

And to preempt your next question, I have no idea how you would get the remaining coolant out of the heater box without removing it?

[Liz Clare]

I was also going to say, don't clean the carpet and put it straight back in without making sure there's no residual coolant sitting in the heater box, otherwise it will just spill all over your freshly cleaned carpet.

 

Normally I'd say leave the carpet out until you can get the core changed but I know that messes with your travel plans.

 

And to preempt your next question, I have no idea how you would get the remaining coolant out of the heater box without removing it?

Good point, never even thought about that.

 

I think my travel plans for MCM this weekend are out the window. The weather is cold and wet up here so even though I have an undercover balcony to lay out the carpet it is unlikely to dry out in time. I might try to just put the seats back in without carpet to drive it back to get the heater box replaced then put the carpet back in afterwards.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Bigfella237]

One last thing and I'll leave you in peace...

 

Assuming it's a molded carpet (as in its shape, not the fungus kind), be careful trying to dry it artificially, like in front of a heater or similar, as it can lose its shape.

 

I'm pretty sure they use steam to form the contours so heating a wet carpet hanging over a clothesline probably won't do it any favours.

[Liz Clare]

One last thing and I'll leave you in peace...

 

Assuming it's a molded carpet (as in its shape, not the fungus kind), be careful trying to dry it artificially, like in front of a heater or similar, as it can lose its shape.

 

I'm pretty sure they use steam to form the contours so heating a wet carpet hanging over a clothesline probably won't do it any favours.

Thanks, Andrew.

 

It's moulded so yeah needs to be dried laying out I guess. Just off to pick up the car now...and so the seats, console & carpet removal work begins this arvo

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[308 Sunbird]

Hi Liz bad luck about the heater but before you yank the front seats if it's a two piece carpet you should be able to get it out once the consol, kick panels and scuff plates are removed. If that tidal