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S/c tight fit


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#1 D-Train

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 02:15 PM

Is there any way I can move the motor over 5 mm. I’ve loosened the mounts and used a bottle jack to move it over but need that little bit more. Here’s a pic of the right fit between s/c and engine rail.

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#2 DMLC71

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 07:49 PM

All can laugh at me.
I'm confused why the blower is on the drivers side?
Cheers

#3 D-Train

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 08:24 PM

No that seems a fair question. So I can't fit an air to water intercooler. I'll put up a pic when it's complete.

#4 _LXT333_

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 08:34 PM

Custom engine mounts?
Smaller intercooler?
Mill a bit off the blower case ?

#5 gtrboyy

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 02:16 AM

Modify some tuffmounts to suit?

 

Looks that close in pic might need it solid mounted.



#6 lx308

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 09:51 AM

Mount s/c closer to engine?



#7 S pack

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 10:17 AM

Mount s/c closer to engine?

Mount the super charger on other side of engine like the HDT did.

 

May need to cut a hole in the bonnet, but hey, what the hell. It's gonna look tough. :)


Edited by S pack, 14 July 2018 - 10:18 AM.


#8 lx308

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 11:01 AM

Tip it over, slant 6 style B)



#9 D-Train

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 09:29 PM

I like that idea. Possible do you think lx308?

#10 lx308

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 11:00 PM

Nah. Oil level would wrong, intake runners going uphill.

The old Val was made for it. Ford also made a slant 6 diesel for a truck  

Attached File  slant-six-blog480.jpg   50.85K   4 downloads



#11 Rockoz

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 10:40 AM

Cut and shut the compressed air box would seem to be the logical answer.



#12 _livo74_

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 02:01 PM

just take out the insolent chassis rail. :D



#13 D-Train

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 10:11 PM

What do you mean rockoz?

#14 Rockoz

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 11:52 AM

The mounting box under(actually at the side) of the supercharger.

Have it reduced in height(width)

Taking 5 or 10 mm out of it would probably be the best way of gaining clearance.

Cant see moving the motor for clearance being a great idea.

End up with drivetrain alignment problems.

Slice the box down. Take out 10mm and get it welded back up.

That to me would seem to be the simplest and most practical solution, going only by what I can see in the photos.

There may be other reasons why it cant be done that Im not aware of.

To do it would take a fabricator perhaps an hour if using MIG. Slightly longer if using TIG.



#15 _LXT333_

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 01:04 PM

The mounting box under(actually at the side) of the supercharger.

Have it reduced in height(width)

Taking 5 or 10 mm out of it would probably be the best way of gaining clearance.

Cant see moving the motor for clearance being a great idea.

End up with drivetrain alignment problems.

Slice the box down. Take out 10mm and get it welded back up.

That to me would seem to be the simplest and most practical solution, going only by what I can see in the photos.

There may be other reasons why it cant be done that Im not aware of.

To do it would take a fabricator perhaps an hour if using MIG. Slightly longer if using TIG.

Isnt this the Air to Water inter cooler though?



#16 Rockoz

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 12:03 PM

Isnt this the Air to Water inter cooler though?

 

No idea.

Like I said, given the information I can see.

Even if it is, there may be room to reduce it a little.

Moving the engine sideways would be a bigger nightmare.

Modifying the chassis rail would be too.

 

This leaves the only option in modifying the supercharger.

May be able to modify the mounting flange.

 

But again with the limited information available from the photo, it is hard to know exactly.

 

If you exclude the things that wont work, or will create other dramas, you are left with what you are left with.

That is the supercharger itself.

How close are the vanes running to the bottom of the casing?

Is it possible to remove a mm or 2 from that?

Same with the mounting flange itself. May be able to take a couple mm off that?

What about the housing itself?

Can you shave a mm or so from that?

A mm or 2 from various spots may just be another option if cutting and shutting the box isnt.



#17 Toranamat69

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 12:25 PM

How much room do you have on the passenger side? I dont see any issue with moving the engine over 10mm or so if there is room everywhere

#18 Rockoz

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 01:30 PM

Move the engine over and you bring alignment issues into play with the drive train.

Although unis allow movement, having something out of line deliberately probably isnt great.

Particularly when chasing power increases.



#19 Com_VC

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 03:42 PM

It's probably already out :) and moving it over might correct it haha



#20 D-Train

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 08:21 PM

Cheers guys. I've already taken as much as I can off the sc mount without reducing strength. There is room on the sc base itself. Might put it in the mill and take a few mm off. Any thoughts as to why I couldn't? How much movement is there from left to right in these straight sixes when they have more than standard hp?

#21 Rockoz

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Posted 25 July 2018 - 08:47 AM

As long as there is clearance for the vanes you should be right.

The thickness is probably to do with stiffness to keep a good seal.

If you took some more off, and added some more screws, that would alleviate any problem there.

You may be able to take a little off the outside of the case near the rails.

Round of any straight edges to reduce stress points.



#22 D-Train

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 09:55 AM

Cheers mate. Will keep you updated.

#23 Rockoz

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 09:22 AM

Cool.

Will be interesting to see how you go with it.



#24 D-Train

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Posted 24 August 2018 - 11:55 PM

Haven't started yet but it all fits now. Wiring to go and should be able to kick it in the guts.

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#25 _Housecat1977_

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Posted 25 August 2018 - 10:21 AM

Nice, what did you move/remove/hammer to get the clearance?




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