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Steering Super Heavy?


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#1 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 12:07 AM

Hi,

I removed my old power steering due to the huge issues I had with it.
Since then I have installed a full rebuilt UC front end and manual rack.
My steering is now heavy as hell, so much so I feel like I’m going to snap the steering wheel off when going slowly around a round about. Yes I’m aware manual steering is heavy but this is out of control. It feels like a car with power steering without the belt running the pump.

Any advice would be appreciated.

#2 Ice

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 12:24 AM

Wheel alignment ??

#3 LJ RB30

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 08:05 AM

Did you remove the shorter power steering arms off & fit the longer manual arms?

#4 axistr

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 09:47 AM

Did you remove the shorter power steering arms off & fit the longer manual arms?

 

I wish Trevor, No Toranas ever come from factory with power steering. UC and A9X arms are longer than LH & LX which will give you slightly more mechanical leverage. You would only use A9X steering arms if you are using A9X/HQ stub axles or you can induce bump steer.

 

 

Just a few questions,

 

 

 

Are you using UC steering arms ? how are your shim stacks in the upper control arm mount placed?. If you jack up the car and rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock does it rotate easily?. Just of interest what power steering rack assembly were you running and the reason for removal



#5 LJ RB30

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 11:13 AM


I wish Trevor, No Toranas ever come from factory with power steering.

Doh!!!

I should have remembered that!
Got my big Holden’s mixed up with the littleish one.
Must remember to wake up before posting !
Please ignore & carry on !

#6 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 03:42 PM

I wish Trevor, No Toranas ever come from factory with power steering. UC and A9X arms are longer than LH & LX which will give you slightly more mechanical leverage. You would only use A9X steering arms if you are using A9X/HQ stub axles or you can induce bump steer.


Just a few questions,



Are you using UC steering arms ? how are your shim stacks in the upper control arm mount placed?. If you jack up the car and rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock does it rotate easily?. Just of interest what power steering rack assembly were you running and the reason for removal


Hey,

Not sure on what rack it was but the old K frame was cut and it didn’t look to professional at all. The reason for removing was after years of trying to get the car to drive right (meaning NOT white knuckle fever trying to hold it straight at 110kmh) I was finally told by a different suspension place here in Perth the whole geometry is out.
I dealt with the power steering for 10 years and I’d had enough so I picked up a complete UC front and had it fitted after rebuilding it. Complete means just that, UC arms, uppers, rack, K frame, the lot.

I’ll have to give it a try jacking it up when I get the chance as it in panel/paint atm

#7 axistr

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 06:15 PM

Gday Ken, it sounds like you had a Ford cortina power steering rack installed. Unfortunately to get them to fit the K-frame was butchered and the geometry was at best extremely poor. I have spoken to a few owners with this system and all complained about them. However I did speak to one owner and he told me his wasn't as bad as many complained. The cortina racks were a very high ratio around 21-1 ratio (Holden manual rack approximatly 16-1). It can also depend on the other components or miss match parts used in your car to how good or bad your car will handle.  If something is tight in your front end this will play havoc with the power steering control valve. And at the same time if you have movement in an other area the play will amplify the problem ten fold. The lower ball joints can get very tight when worn and try to pull out of the joint, but generally start making squeaking noise when turning beforehand.

 

I pulled a muscle in my right arm trying to park my hatch one day and the pain lasted weeks, that's what prompted me to fit power steering and never looked back. Maybe I'm a pussy but stuff that heavy steering and mine steers much better than the manual rack ever did.     



#8 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 07:00 PM

Yes it probably was a Cortina rack, who knows, it’s gone now anyway.
As for my front end now, there isn’t 1 part that hasn’t been replaced so I’m not sure why it’s so heavy. I don’t ever recall Torana steering being like this.
I’m just hoping someone has an idea what may be causing it.

Edited by LH8VD69, 30 July 2018 - 07:00 PM.


#9 neglectedtorana

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 07:28 PM

I know it sounds simple but have you checked your tyre pressure?

Did you rebuild the front end or a workshop? Could the ball joints need greasing?

Any chance something was added under the dash or the column is tight?

 

I do think Lennys idea about jacking it up to see if it is tight will give you a good indication



#10 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 08:46 PM

Yeah I’ve checked al that simple stuff. Plenty of grease and tyres good.
I’ll give the jacking up a go. 🤷🏽‍♂️

#11 rexy

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 11:06 PM

What size are your front tyres?

#12 jonesy

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 03:13 AM

bicep inflation, we are all getting older these days 

put a steering wheel off of a bus on there...more leverage and you can charge for rides



sorry thats all i got


Edited by jonesy, 31 July 2018 - 03:13 AM.


#13 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 05:54 AM

You will want to keep the caster on the lower end especially with wide tyres, probably no more than 1.5 degrees.

 

Old/worn steering column bearings can multiply the weight too.



#14 S pack

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 05:57 AM

Steering rack yoke incorrectly adjusted making rack tight?

Steering rack flexed out of alignment making rack bind in rack bush? Loosen left hand rack mounting bolt and see if steering effort reduces.



#15 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 04:04 PM

Hey people, thanks for all the responses.
My tyres are the usual 245/50R14’s. The same as I had back in the day.
I’ll try all of the above options and get back with the results.

It’s currently in panel and paint with the engine and gearbox out as well. The ole Supra 5 speed is sold and the 308 is sitting away.
COME alloy headed 355 underway using a T5-Z Cobra box. Not near as tough as a TKO but will do the job without to much drama I think.

Cheers again

#16 ozyozyozy

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 06:51 PM

I use a cotina setup, find its not too bad, would like a faster ratio now.
Wheel align is critical, most people dont know how to properly setup a torana, just making the boxes go green on the machine is not good enough.

FYI torana's suffer badly from bump steer in the rear too, makes the car dart around on bumpy roads, even in a straight line.

#17 mick_in_oz

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 07:02 PM

The stupid negative caster setting some cars come with was the culprit of a lot of ill handling.

Caster will make the steering heavy if you add a nice amount, but with pretty much as much as you can fit on it, it'll drive nice! prolly be a lil heavy with the 245's on the front though.



#18 Cook

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 08:02 PM

I know it's a completely different car but I am running 15 X 7 with 205/65s on the front of my WB ute (V8) and without power steering it's hard work when you aren't moving.  As Mick has said, I reckon 245's would be gym material. Just my 2 cents worth.  Cheers Ron



#19 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 08:09 PM

Any recommendations on who could set up my Torana steering/alignment in WA that doesn’t just make the boxes green then? 🙏🏽

#20 ozyozyozy

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 09:30 PM

Tyreways In welshpool, radium st, nice guy.

There is a couple of others but the people that know are buried in the company so dont get to speak to them.

#21 bat 53

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 10:19 AM

i use pedders cannington for the last 10 cars ive'd converted for people 

never had a problem with bevan



#22 Rockoz

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 10:35 AM

It could be as simple as not enough shims in the rack, under the oval shaped covers.

Try loosening the 2 bolts off for starters, and see if that makes a difference.



#23 LXCHEV

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 09:50 PM

My Dad used to have an LH with 245/50 x 14's on the front (8" wide rims). It was very heavy in the steering - not very pleasant at all. But certainly nothing like driving a power-steer car without the belt running the pump as you described (experienced that recently funnily enough and was stunned at how heavy it was). In my Dad's car, we used to run really high tyre pressures just to give it some relief.

 

As the others have said - I'd start by jacking the car up, and ensuring that everything moves easily and freely - lock-to-lock, when there is no resistance.

 

If that proves ok, hopefully you can resolve it with a really decent alignment.

 

What diff are you running? Lockers (ie. spools) can have a huge impact on steering too.

 

Will be interested to hear how you go...



#24 76lxhatch

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 08:41 AM

As the others have said - I'd start by jacking the car up, and ensuring that everything moves easily and freely - lock-to-lock, when there is no resistance.

A good place to start, also some of the possibilities mentioned above may only appear with some load. If everything moves fine with no load, apply some manually to different components and see what happens - e.g. side load the intermediate shaft/input, the rack ends etc and see if that causes more bind than it should.

#25 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 06:55 AM

Ok so I’ve finally got my car back from the paint shop and jacked the car up as suggested. I found I am able to turn the wheels with about the same resistance as a car grounded with normal power steering. I did find though the steering binding up a bit turning to the right, the last two thirds of a turn. Any ideas?

Edited by LH8VD69, 22 December 2018 - 06:55 AM.





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