g'day ken
i woulddrop the tierods off try each side separetly
and also try the rack while they are off
i don't know how your old power rack was mounted
but i have done a few of them never had an issue
cheers bat
Posted 22 December 2018 - 09:23 AM
g'day ken
i woulddrop the tierods off try each side separetly
and also try the rack while they are off
i don't know how your old power rack was mounted
but i have done a few of them never had an issue
cheers bat
Posted 22 December 2018 - 09:33 AM
Something sounds too tight here.
The simplest checks you can do are a process of elimination.
Remove the split pins & nuts from the outer tie rod ends & disconnect the rack from the steering arms.
With the rod ends disconnected & the both tyres turned outwards (out of the way) you should be able to turn from full lock to full lock with no resistance at all. Try turning it using just one small finger at the steering wheel rim. If you can, then all is good with the rack & column. If you can't, look further at the rack & column.
Now once the rack is proven to have no resistance, try each side one at a time. With the arms still disconnected & the lower arm jacked up so the ball joints are working at their loaded angle, the whole wheel & tyre should go from lock to lock with little or no resistance. If they don't, find out why. If they do then get the front end properly aligned & go to a gym.
You could also consider a good power steer conversion like one from axistr !!
Dr Terry
Posted 22 December 2018 - 10:42 AM
I've just put a fully rebuilt UC front end into my LX hatch. My first test drive was without (anti)sway bars attached and I was pumped at how well it handled! No more darting across the road when one wheel hits a bump. With 3.1 degrees of caster the steering was marginally lighter than I had with the LX. Then I put on the (anti) sway bars and fixed a few other bits and pieces. The handling went out the window and the steering was just as heavy as with LX. Starting to think the (anti) sway bar on the front is too stiff. Re-checked the front end alignment. Bingo! The front end must have moved/settled. Caster was the same, camber slightly increased, but still even both sides. However now had <10mm toe out. Fixed that and restored the steering and handling. So I wouldn't be surprised if Dr Terry's procedure reveals you need a wheel alignment. Probably worth re-torquing nuts and bolts too.
Following with interest, Steve.
Posted 22 December 2018 - 03:20 PM
With 3.1 degrees of caster the steering was marginally lighter than I had with the LX.
Posted 24 December 2018 - 07:12 AM
Hi Greg, my front tyres are 225/50/15. Caster on the LX front end was 1.7 degrees. Ken is running 245/50/14's so that contributes to heavier steering.
Posted 24 December 2018 - 11:06 PM
Posted 25 December 2018 - 11:29 AM
With 245s on the front of my L34, it really is difficult to turn when on bitumen and going slow. Although the rack ratio is a bit shorter (taller?) too.
Posted 26 December 2018 - 06:19 PM
As Dr Terry said, something isn't right (or at least could be better). I had over 5 degrees of caster and 255/40/17 tyres on the front of mine before I went power steer and it was a little heavy but still driveable.
Edited by 76lxhatch, 26 December 2018 - 06:19 PM.
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