I know this is a well debated topic and I find it frustrating not knowing how far I should go, however I'm brand new to this forum having just bought my car this year. The car is a genuine matching everything (verified by an authoritative member from this forum) May 72 XU1 which I retrieved from a storage shed where it sat dormant for the last 20 years. The car is in VGC. These cars are becoming quite expensive and the debate over leaving everything original or going to a little effort to restore small things I'm finding confusing. Some say leave the 'Patina', that's the bit I'm having trouble with. Today I've removed the original carpet and underfelt (jute) to remove rust on the front floor (see photos). The rust its minimal but by removing the surface rust with a wire wheel has left pits in the metal and shiny steel. The floor has never been painted and is all original. Do I just touch up the shiny rusted area's only or paint the entire footwell?
To restore or leave original
#1
Posted 22 August 2018 - 09:52 AM
#2
Posted 22 August 2018 - 11:29 AM
No holes, l'd just put some rust killer/converter and follow up with red oxide primer by brush.
#3
Posted 22 August 2018 - 12:45 PM
Yes I understand your dilemma. Not sure I would paint it with red oxide as that just throws the originality straight out the window.
BUT you need to stop the rust as that is killing your investment. So you need to convert it but not really sure what to put over it. Maybe paint the section with the same colour as the original.
#4
Posted 22 August 2018 - 02:21 PM
The original paint looks like some sort of light black sound deadner in the channels only of the footwell but on the flats it just looks like a piss coat of factory red oxide then a mist coat (probably overspray) of the Chateau Mauve. Would you smear a coat of car putty or spot putty over the rust pitting (after I rust convert) then sand smooth then top coat?
#5
Posted 22 August 2018 - 02:55 PM
A good problem to have Mark, but it would be difficult decisions to make. I thought I read that they came out of factory with red oxide primer and if that's the case that is where I would start, after treating the rust with some form of inhibitor. Personally, if it were me, I would deal with any issues based on the fact that patina looks good but no good if your investment is depreciating to a point where you have to do major work. Unless you are looking to sell it down the track then I would deal with the issues and sleep well knowing it will survive another 30 -40 years. Good luck with it. Cheers Ron
Edited by Cook, 22 August 2018 - 02:57 PM.
#6
Posted 22 August 2018 - 03:24 PM
Thus, one assumes if you look after it, it will not get worse in the next 20 years?.
I'd just give it a coat of this stuff
https://www.whitekni...rd-clear-guard/
and enjoy.
That way it is still as per factory, but has a skin over it.
Once you paint it or POR it, it will never be seen as untouched..Just my humble opinion.
#7
Posted 22 August 2018 - 05:00 PM
Ok thank you all for that. I guess because I've been out of the classic car game for 25 years (since I owned and sold my 73 LJ GTR to get married/house/kids) and in that time prices for classic OZ muscle cars have gone crazy so I'm trying to gauge what the best way is to maintain originality of this car but there is a point that you have to restore and knowing what that point is, is bloody difficult. The boot of this car for another example is original (Adelaide blue/grey - see photos). Of course it has its very small patchy surface rust only area's under the mat and scratches from being used. Do you touch up those small scratches?, I won't be, that's I think what they refer to as 'Patina' and if I was to sell this car, (which I'm not as just bought it) then I think potential buyers like to visually see that nothing has been covered up even if it does look a bit 'worn'.
Attached Files
#8
Posted 22 August 2018 - 06:24 PM
yep...100%.
The cars that are bringing money, are the original ones.
For those who wish to modify..that's great too....your car, your choice.
#9
Posted 22 August 2018 - 07:33 PM
The original paint looks like some sort of light black sound deadner in the channels only of the footwell but on the flats it just looks like a piss coat of factory red oxide then a mist coat (probably overspray) of the Chateau Mauve. Would you smear a coat of car putty or spot putty over the rust pitting (after I rust convert) then sand smooth then top coat?
Hi Mark, yes you're pretty much correct, a light coat of red oxide & a bit of chateau overspray around jams. & yes you can say there's a rusty "patina" but the main word there is "rust" once it starts, you have to treat it properly mate. It might be sprayed underneath the carpet, but it saves you from replacing floor pans ect. That would be much worse. As far hi build type primers, they will only cover sanding scratches caused by sand paper, not pitting from rust ect. Looks like you have 2 small holes in that floor pan too, which will require welding. Happy to offer advise via a pm too !
#10
Posted 22 August 2018 - 07:44 PM
Thanks Gary, yes there is two small matchhead type holes from me chipping away with a sharpened Philips screwdriver. That crater rust or whatever you call it needs aggressive digging to remove the scale at the expense of a hole unfortunately. Drivers side has a few more which I'm working on. Would you weld these little craters? would it blow through and make a larger hole?
#11
Posted 22 August 2018 - 08:33 PM
Hey Mark, if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, do it your way. Personally I would hate driving around in a 45 year old car for the next 30 years. Old shocks / worn steering and scratched windscreen. Its not about the resale value. Its enjoying driving. Sure you can keep all the old parts you take off. If your going to drive it, then make it your own. If its an investment (low Kays) non driver ? then put it in your shed the way it is. Original is boring. There wouldn't be a original 45 years old car in this world. Sure some are close but tyres/oil change ect.. I would rather drive a 308 LJ/LC for the next 30 years than a six Rainman
#12
Posted 22 August 2018 - 08:47 PM
that's true. I guess I've already changed its originality by replacing all the shocks with double acting oil Koni's, which by the way make a 'classic' range perfect for our older cars. I intend enjoying this car as I'm mid 50's so there's no time to stick it in a shed to enjoy later .
#13
Posted 22 August 2018 - 09:30 PM
Keep all your old parts by all means, then if the monetary figure is worth it when your finished then get someone to put them back. Enjoy driving this car today mate . I have been driving my HQ Stato and WB a bit in the last 2 years and I can tell you every rubber you replace it makes it safer and so much more enjoyable. Stato now sold but WB is a NSF. I hated the feel of them old pigs. When I jump in the 6 cyl 2005 #ord ute, it feels great. Better everything and more power than the two V8 slugs put together lol. I would Sooooo much rather drive a holden ute for sure but my cash went to the Torana. Enjoy it your way as the extra dollars the XU1 would get, means Frock all really. To drive with steering play and shit worn brakes detracts from the experience. Well done on your purchase and wish yourself all the best luck with the old Giant Killer. Rainman
#14
Posted 22 August 2018 - 11:24 PM
Change the oil and filter whack a set hot plugs in it and tune the tripplesthat's true. I guess I've already changed its originality by replacing all the shocks with double acting oil Koni's, which by the way make a 'classic' range perfect for our older cars. I intend enjoying this car as I'm mid 50's so there's no time to stick it in a shed to enjoy later .
then cane the frOck out of it no better feeling ✌️
#15
Posted 23 August 2018 - 01:48 AM
#16
Posted 23 August 2018 - 06:37 PM
There's be no canning the f....ck out of it, this car cost me a small fortune. Don't want it to throw a leg out of bed on the original JP block. Would be a $20,000 mistake and then where are you going to get another JP block? might have to replace the engine with something I can cane the f*** out of it She will be a cruiser. she Already has the runs on the board (Hardie Ferodo 500 - 1972). This is why I can see the value in a tribute car at half the price.
#17
Posted 23 August 2018 - 08:20 PM
#18
Posted 24 August 2018 - 11:21 PM
So much is put on the "original" state of a car but paint work and or rust converter etc that will never be seen again as it will be under carpet is for me just being anal
That is IMHO and I will probably be crucified but opinions were asked for and they are like brains, everyone has one but not all use them to their full potential
I wire brushed the floor pan in my SS, rust converted it and painted on a deadening compound "all over"
Can't see it and who cares, is someone going to ask me is the paint on the floor pan original Don't think so
Do what you are happy with it as it is your car and you are the one that has to be happy with it
RegardSS .... Barry
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