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Mild 202 Overheating


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#1 _macdou_

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 10:12 AM

Ok have a mild 202 running twin 2”
SU’s. YellaTerra Head.

Engine is in a cradle and is my test engine.

Engine was running ok temp wise and over a few days started to overheat for no reason

Have done the following so far
-New thermostat (tested)
-New water pump
-Heads been recoed
-New radiator
-New head gasket (gasket on correctly)
-made sure water passages weren’t blocked
-12 degrees timing
-No water in oil
-Oil pressure around 35psi

Currently temp basically climbs over 100 within 5 minutes from cold. So nothing has really changed from before I started this process.

Any other thoughts as I have run out of options.

#2 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 10:41 AM

Is the balancer good and timing 100% verified. Gauge, Temp sensor? Is it definitely getting that hot? After 5 mins is the system fully pressurized and fargin hot like it is about to boil?

#3 LJ RB30

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 10:43 AM

Compression test

Was head cracktested?

Any bubbles in radiator?

#4 _macdou_

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 11:14 AM

Compression test was around 130 across all cylinders except No 1 which was 90. Also did a wet test with no difference. Long story short No 1 had a leaky exhaust valve, so new valve seats in all exhaust valves 1-6. Head wasn’t crack tested but was sandblasted and pressure tested by the shop.
No bubbles in radiator.

#5 _macdou_

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 11:17 AM

Yes definitely boiling, Faaarken boiling.

I checked timing when Head was off with balancer and balancer has spun probably around 10 degrees so compensated when I retimed the engine.

Is the balancer good and timing 100% verified. Gauge, Temp sensor? Is it definitely getting that hot? After 5 mins is the system fully pressurized and fargin hot like it is about to boil?



#6 S pack

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 11:52 AM

.

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#7 S pack

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 11:55 AM

Is the water pump circulating the coolant?



#8 _macdou_

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 12:07 PM

Yes Dave can see flow in the radiator

Is the water pump circulating the coolant?



#9 LJ RB30

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 02:48 PM

So you have used the engine in a car before getting the head repaired?
Did it get hot before?

On a cradle with a fan fitted?

Any other cooling hoses fitted? ie manifold heating or water pump bypass hoses etc

Edited by LJ RB30, 18 September 2018 - 02:51 PM.


#10 jd lj

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 04:13 PM

It's missing a carb.

#11 LJ RB30

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 05:18 PM

It's missing a carb.


Was thinking that too lol 😂

#12 S pack

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 05:47 PM

Remove the thermostat and see if that makes a difference.



#13 _macdou_

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 06:21 PM

No I bought the motor taken out of a car. Wasn’t running hot for the first month or so.
Standard cooling setup with fan

So you have used the engine in a car before getting the head repaired?
Did it get hot before?

On a cradle with a fan fitted?

Any other cooling hoses fitted? ie manifold heating or water pump bypass hoses etc



Dave today I cut the guts out of my old thermostat and definitely made a difference. I had bought a new 82c thermostat which is probably too hot.

Remove the thermostat and see if that makes a difference.



#14 _macdou_

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 06:24 PM

James I have a set of DCOE45’s I was going to fit but figured the twin 2” SUs would have a lot more punch and a lot easier to setup 😂😂😂

It's missing a carb.


Edited by macdou, 18 September 2018 - 06:31 PM.


#15 grumpy xu1

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 06:41 PM

I'd be sus on the balancer, disy or if you had a thermostat.

#16 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 September 2018 - 07:41 PM

Ok have a mild 202 running twin 2”
SU’s. YellaTerra Head.

Engine is in a cradle and is my test engine.

Engine was running ok temp wise and over a few days started to overheat for no reason

Have done the following so far
-New thermostat (tested)
-New water pump
-Heads been recoed
-New radiator
-New head gasket (gasket on correctly)
-made sure water passages weren’t blocked
-12 degrees timing
-No water in oil
-Oil pressure around 35psi

Currently temp basically climbs over 100 within 5 minutes from cold. So nothing has really changed from before I started this process.

Any other thoughts as I have run out of options.

 

 

had a similar situation with when  i rebuilt the GTR, no issues off fresh engine quiet cold running then BAM it's up there 240 . there was no smell of heat nor was there any other signs. bit stumped.

 

after multiple thermostats  up down up on the range i put the FLUKE meter into the water and there was NO way the water was getting to the shown temperature on the gauge.

 

sent the gauge off for testing and  it was out , IF i put a 10 OHMS relay into the line then it would read ABOUT right, 

 

end pf story.

 

Its a straight six, it's built with a factor of safety into the radiator heat exchange ( AKA radiator) with your set up  it's impossible to have an over heating issue unless u dont run a fan and live in sydney.

 

it's your gauge. put a heat meter into the top of a radiator with the cap off, idol for some bazillion  hours and see if it gets hot as per the meter reading 

 

if it does not get hot as per the meter then your gauge is F@#$K or reading out.

(

Buy a 13 (or 15) psi radiator cap as well - but for that comp and ignition it should be a coooool running motor. dont get fooled by a " lean needle " either and fatten up the tune - it's not the needle 

 

don't be fooled by some Tom Foolery fancy Gauges - your motor will smell like it's at 240 degrees and climbing and talk to you as such,

 

The oil on the side of the block will be smoking and wafting through the cab. 

 

three cents grass hopper 

 


Edited by Agent 34, 28 September 2018 - 07:42 PM.





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