Jump to content


Sufficient Cooling 355?


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 _LH8VD69_

_LH8VD69_
  • Guests

Posted 18 October 2018 - 06:35 PM

Hi all, I’m currently going through the second build on my Torana, the first one was back in 2011 which I have a thread here about. Anyway I’ll save all the details for my second build thread later.
So the original 308 has been removed along with the rest of the driveline, it is being replaced with a tough VS blocked alloy headed stroker.
The radiator is just a run of the mill 3 core with old school thermos. I don’t think it’s going to be suitable for the new engine and was looking at going one of the alloy radiators on EBay. There appears to be so many with various prices.
Can anyone recommend one that actually works well from personal experience?
Obviously I’ll be going for one with shroud and twin thermos.
Thanks in advance

#2 Cook

Cook

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,497 posts
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 27-February 15

Posted 18 October 2018 - 07:39 PM

Hi Ken. I bought an alloy radiator for my WB (253 but total stock) off EBay and after about 3 months it started to leak. To their credit the supplier replaced it but I decided to bite the bullet and pay for an original copper/brass radiator and no dramas after 12 months or so. That said I have an alloy Race Radiator ready to go into the Hatch (will be running a 355) but have paid a fair price for it. Cheers Ron

#3 gtrboyy

gtrboyy

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,127 posts
  • Location:SYDNEY,NSW
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 19 October 2018 - 07:52 PM

As ugly as it was factory clutch fan/shroud & v8 commodore radiator kept my 355 cool on high 30 degree days in traffic.

 

Only thing I'd change to is bf single fan or au twins with higher amp alternator.

 

Any other mods to engine for water cooling?

 

Crossover pipes in rear of manifold/heads

Drilled thermostat

Heater bypass hose is a must

Cast impellor blade in water pump

 

Add oil cooler especially if block grouted



#4 Lima31

Lima31

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 874 posts
  • Name:Lee
  • Location:Perth WA
  • Joined: 18-April 10

Posted 19 October 2018 - 09:00 PM

AU Falcon or mondeo fans work great, particularly if the plastic shroud hugs close to the radiator. I don't know of anyone that went au fans with the stock 3 core and said that wasn't enough

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

#5 rexy

rexy

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,576 posts
  • Name:Rexy
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Car:Kia grand carnival!!!
  • Joined: 03-November 09

Posted 20 October 2018 - 07:51 PM

I think the above are correct. You will probably be ok with your current setup. Not much point changing it anyway until you have found out if it does the job or not!

If you do end up looking for another radiator I can vouch for the cheap Chinese ones. For the Ute and the yellow LJ I bought the cheapest I could find that was the correct dimensions and core size. They work very well with no problems after a couple of years use. Excellent value at well less than $200 each. Can’t bring myself to pay $1000 for a radiator with a fancy brand name on it.

#6 76lxhatch

76lxhatch

    That was easy!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,142 posts
  • Location:Unzud
  • Car:SS
  • Joined: 04-August 08
Garage View Garage

Posted 21 October 2018 - 06:00 AM

Similar to everyone above, good fans and water pump. Had an alloy radiator which started leaking after 12 months and went back to the copper and brass 3 core (it just annoys me that I can't get one without the trans cooler).

You can fit two 14" fans if you trim a tiny bit out of the flange on the chassis rails, they will basically cover the entire height of the core:
20160603_141341.jpg

#7 derrin71

derrin71

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 490 posts
  • Name:Derrin
  • Location:Emerald Qld
  • Car:LX Hatchback, Holden Colorado. Mini Clubman S
  • Joined: 29-November 09

Posted 21 October 2018 - 05:20 PM

My 355 uses a VP V8 brass/copper radiator, AU thermo's and a cast impeller pump. Just have a simple davies craig controller with the sensor in the top radiator hose. I set the switch so the fans start at about 82 and turn off at 80deg. Have driven it in street parades at walking pace for an hour, 40 deg plus with no issues. Interior gets a little hot but due, to the exhaust under the floor and general radiated heat.



#8 _LH8VD69_

_LH8VD69_
  • Guests

Posted 22 October 2018 - 06:35 PM

Thanks guys, I have to say I’m surprised more people haven’t had a good run with the alloy ones. Every second pic online of a nice Torry engine bay appears to have a nice looking alloy job.
Me changing my radiator is for two reason really, firstly the extra cooling and in this second build I’m trying to up the ante looks wise.

The current radiator has only just held its own on hot days and that was on a stockish 308 let alone the new beastie.

#9 gtrboyy

gtrboyy

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,127 posts
  • Location:SYDNEY,NSW
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 22 October 2018 - 11:20 PM

Had vs v8 alloy 2 core with au fans when lc gtr was injected 5 litre...no issues.

 

One I thought wouldn't work yet did was vn v6 single row with vn thermofan then later on nicer looking later model vs slimline...was in 355 early head vk commo...heat off exhaust cooking the cabin & fuel line was more of an issue than cooling system. 



#10 I'm a Red Motor fiend

I'm a Red Motor fiend

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 758 posts
  • Name:Adam
  • Location:Nairne SA
  • Car:LJ 4 door, LC GTR
  • Joined: 04-January 16
Garage View Garage

Posted 23 October 2018 - 05:57 AM

Agree with Rexy, my Chinese alloy 3 row cost me $130. Never had any issues and my compression is 11.6:1.

#11 koalasprint

koalasprint

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 295 posts
  • Name:Steve
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Car:LX SS Hatch
  • Joined: 30-April 10

Posted 23 October 2018 - 09:15 AM

I've been in a similar boat. I was running a stockish 308. I have a cheap Chinese alloy radiator which came with a plastic shroud and twin fans. No leak issues. It worked fine with the stock 308. Then i put in an alloy headed 355. In normal weather, say 21 degrees the engine will run around 94 - 97 degrees. (Up to half on the trusty Torana temperature gauge) The low fan runs all the time and the high fan runs on and off. On hot days both fans run almost all of the time, but the temperature holds around 97 degrees. I am running a 70 amp alternator but haven't upgraded the alternator wiring. At the moment I am making some changes. The wiring is being upgraded to 140 amp. I am fitting a BF fan. I will use the low speed/high speed capability which will be controlled by two thermal switches. The BF fan is a better fit to twin AU's. The AU shroud is too wide, hangs over the radiator and needs to be relieved to clear the chassis. I may have to go up in alternator, but will wait and see. In due course I intend to do a full write up on the mods, but will have to wait until I finish.

 

What other have said above is all correct too.

 

Couple of pics AU vs BF. BTW Cheaper to buy BF at the wreckers. Twins fans versus a single.

 

Regards, Steve.

Attached Files

  • Attached File  AU.jpg   129.26K   5 downloads
  • Attached File  BF.jpg   106.97K   7 downloads


#12 Statler

Statler

    Heckler Extraordinaire

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,281 posts
  • Name:Col
  • Location:Mackay Qld. Whitsundays for all you back packers!
  • Joined: 20-May 06

Posted 23 October 2018 - 03:56 PM

I'm using a PWR radiator (yes i bought the expensive name brand) with their supplied single Spal fan kit. 

 

I ordered it without the dodgy spray painted logo.

 

If you want quality you have to pay for it. 

 

No issues at all. Very happy.

 

I know other guys with the chinese Ebay jobbies. They seem to work also but the quality is shit.



#13 gtrboyy

gtrboyy

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,127 posts
  • Location:SYDNEY,NSW
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 23 October 2018 - 11:17 PM

Bare minimum use vn-vs v8 85 amp alternator for thermofans & f/pump...bigger 120amp-140amp are better as long as use suitable cabling etc

 

The copper factory radiators work best if you have one already but you'd be surprised how well cheapie $80-$110 work with ford fans.



#14 rexy

rexy

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,576 posts
  • Name:Rexy
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Car:Kia grand carnival!!!
  • Joined: 03-November 09

Posted 10 November 2018 - 02:57 PM

The other important point when chasing overheating issues is to make sure your engine tune is good.
Too little advance in particular will lead to problems. More an issue with a chev than a Holden as some of the chevs require a lot of advance. I chased this with the big block in the Ute for a while.

Also beware of “ performance bling”.



Attached File  998772D8-9A71-4359-919E-C4B72966072C.jpeg   506.45K   5 downloads

This was on my yellow LJ when I bought it. Never seemed an issue on the near stock 308 that was in it. When I put the 383 in it it suddenly became a hot runner. Engine has a partial grout filled block, medium size solid cam and VL heads. Overheating was cured by replacing above item with a factory style thermostat housing.

Chinese cheapie works perfectly with twin Spal fans on the back.
Attached File  B5955E94-D8AD-47DC-90C8-AB4D5C3994DA.jpeg   97.6K   9 downloads




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users