Sufficient Cooling 355?
#1 _LH8VD69_
Posted 18 October 2018 - 06:35 PM
So the original 308 has been removed along with the rest of the driveline, it is being replaced with a tough VS blocked alloy headed stroker.
The radiator is just a run of the mill 3 core with old school thermos. I don’t think it’s going to be suitable for the new engine and was looking at going one of the alloy radiators on EBay. There appears to be so many with various prices.
Can anyone recommend one that actually works well from personal experience?
Obviously I’ll be going for one with shroud and twin thermos.
Thanks in advance
#2
Posted 18 October 2018 - 07:39 PM
#3
Posted 19 October 2018 - 07:52 PM
As ugly as it was factory clutch fan/shroud & v8 commodore radiator kept my 355 cool on high 30 degree days in traffic.
Only thing I'd change to is bf single fan or au twins with higher amp alternator.
Any other mods to engine for water cooling?
Crossover pipes in rear of manifold/heads
Drilled thermostat
Heater bypass hose is a must
Cast impellor blade in water pump
Add oil cooler especially if block grouted
#4
Posted 19 October 2018 - 09:00 PM
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#5
Posted 20 October 2018 - 07:51 PM
If you do end up looking for another radiator I can vouch for the cheap Chinese ones. For the Ute and the yellow LJ I bought the cheapest I could find that was the correct dimensions and core size. They work very well with no problems after a couple of years use. Excellent value at well less than $200 each. Can’t bring myself to pay $1000 for a radiator with a fancy brand name on it.
#6
Posted 21 October 2018 - 06:00 AM
You can fit two 14" fans if you trim a tiny bit out of the flange on the chassis rails, they will basically cover the entire height of the core:
#7
Posted 21 October 2018 - 05:20 PM
My 355 uses a VP V8 brass/copper radiator, AU thermo's and a cast impeller pump. Just have a simple davies craig controller with the sensor in the top radiator hose. I set the switch so the fans start at about 82 and turn off at 80deg. Have driven it in street parades at walking pace for an hour, 40 deg plus with no issues. Interior gets a little hot but due, to the exhaust under the floor and general radiated heat.
#8 _LH8VD69_
Posted 22 October 2018 - 06:35 PM
Me changing my radiator is for two reason really, firstly the extra cooling and in this second build I’m trying to up the ante looks wise.
The current radiator has only just held its own on hot days and that was on a stockish 308 let alone the new beastie.
#9
Posted 22 October 2018 - 11:20 PM
Had vs v8 alloy 2 core with au fans when lc gtr was injected 5 litre...no issues.
One I thought wouldn't work yet did was vn v6 single row with vn thermofan then later on nicer looking later model vs slimline...was in 355 early head vk commo...heat off exhaust cooking the cabin & fuel line was more of an issue than cooling system.
#10
Posted 23 October 2018 - 05:57 AM
#11
Posted 23 October 2018 - 09:15 AM
I've been in a similar boat. I was running a stockish 308. I have a cheap Chinese alloy radiator which came with a plastic shroud and twin fans. No leak issues. It worked fine with the stock 308. Then i put in an alloy headed 355. In normal weather, say 21 degrees the engine will run around 94 - 97 degrees. (Up to half on the trusty Torana temperature gauge) The low fan runs all the time and the high fan runs on and off. On hot days both fans run almost all of the time, but the temperature holds around 97 degrees. I am running a 70 amp alternator but haven't upgraded the alternator wiring. At the moment I am making some changes. The wiring is being upgraded to 140 amp. I am fitting a BF fan. I will use the low speed/high speed capability which will be controlled by two thermal switches. The BF fan is a better fit to twin AU's. The AU shroud is too wide, hangs over the radiator and needs to be relieved to clear the chassis. I may have to go up in alternator, but will wait and see. In due course I intend to do a full write up on the mods, but will have to wait until I finish.
What other have said above is all correct too.
Couple of pics AU vs BF. BTW Cheaper to buy BF at the wreckers. Twins fans versus a single.
Regards, Steve.
Attached Files
#12
Posted 23 October 2018 - 03:56 PM
I'm using a PWR radiator (yes i bought the expensive name brand) with their supplied single Spal fan kit.
I ordered it without the dodgy spray painted logo.
If you want quality you have to pay for it.
No issues at all. Very happy.
I know other guys with the chinese Ebay jobbies. They seem to work also but the quality is shit.
#13
Posted 23 October 2018 - 11:17 PM
Bare minimum use vn-vs v8 85 amp alternator for thermofans & f/pump...bigger 120amp-140amp are better as long as use suitable cabling etc
The copper factory radiators work best if you have one already but you'd be surprised how well cheapie $80-$110 work with ford fans.
#14
Posted 10 November 2018 - 02:57 PM
Too little advance in particular will lead to problems. More an issue with a chev than a Holden as some of the chevs require a lot of advance. I chased this with the big block in the Ute for a while.
Also beware of “ performance bling”.
998772D8-9A71-4359-919E-C4B72966072C.jpeg 506.45K 5 downloads
This was on my yellow LJ when I bought it. Never seemed an issue on the near stock 308 that was in it. When I put the 383 in it it suddenly became a hot runner. Engine has a partial grout filled block, medium size solid cam and VL heads. Overheating was cured by replacing above item with a factory style thermostat housing.
Chinese cheapie works perfectly with twin Spal fans on the back.
B5955E94-D8AD-47DC-90C8-AB4D5C3994DA.jpeg 97.6K 9 downloads
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