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Sleeving 202 Block


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#1 macdou

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Posted 15 December 2018 - 05:31 PM

Hi just chasing some feedback on sleeving a block

I have a 202 at 60 thou that needs boring. Not so fussed on the 80 thou option so will probably go ahead with sleeving.

I know little about this process and yet to speak to an engine builder and thought I would run by this forum first.

So chasing experiences either good or bad, cost and any issues post sleeving, reliability etc

Thanks

#2 lawn bowls

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Posted 16 December 2018 - 03:26 PM

i had my 186 block sleeved about 10 years ago with no problems



#3 Drag lc

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Posted 16 December 2018 - 05:29 PM

If it’s not any special block might be cheaper to source another block.

What’s it going to be used for?

#4 macdou

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Posted 16 December 2018 - 06:24 PM

If it’s not any special block might be cheaper to source another block.

What’s it going to be used for?


Definitely cheaper to source another block, but this block is something I want to keep. Building up with a decent cam and good pistons, rods, head etc.

#5 claysummers

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Posted 16 December 2018 - 06:56 PM

Don’t know but I would think done well a sleeved block would likely be more durable than a standard one, particularly if going oversize. If you are going to the trouble I would think it would be well worth looking at increasing the bore for more power. There is no substitute for cubic inches as they say. 80 thou over is 210cui but why stop there?


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#6 meanmachine72

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 07:31 AM

kens motor would be a JP block, and at 80 thou over??  i would be resleeving for sure



#7 macdou

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 08:07 AM

Yes well that’s the other issue is how big to go with the sleeves. I always thought 30 thou was the norm. I have heard the sleeves are more durable than the cast cylinder and last longer, fact or fiction not sure

Don’t know but I would think done well a sleeved block would likely be more durable than a standard one, particularly if going oversize. If you are going to the trouble I would think it would be well worth looking at increasing the bore for more power. There is no substitute for cubic inches as they say. 80 thou over is 210cui but why stop there?


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Put it this way it’s definitely worth resleeving.

kens motor would be a JP block, and at 80 thou over?? i would be resleeving for sure



#8 S pack

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 08:09 AM

I know of a JP block back in the 80's that had one cylinder sleeved because a gudgeon pin came loose and gouged the cylinder wall.

 

Just a bit of useless trivial information.

Cheers

Dave.


Edited by S pack, 17 December 2018 - 08:10 AM.


#9 TK383

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 04:30 PM

Sleeving all 6 takes some rigidity out of the block - it's best to do a short grout fill if you're sleeving 6 to give some rigidity back - still won't be as strong as an unsleeved block.

Depends on the projected power output, for a mild streeter it'll be fine, for a race donk I'd get another block.

 

Expensive to sleeve all 6, only worth it for a matching numbers or in some other way special block.

 

I've got a 186s block here I'm doing 6x sleeves on shortly, it's .060" with almost .020" wear, matching numbers HK munro block, so worth saving.


Edited by TK383, 17 December 2018 - 04:31 PM.


#10 DMLC71

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 07:11 PM

I had a 186s bored to a 192. Re sleeved 3 bores in the process.
Gave the motor plenty. Only ever blew one head gasket between bore 1 & 2
Never a problem with temp
Cheers

#11 duggan208

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 12:00 AM

I know of an FC Holden, big turbo puts out over 700 HP, he sleeved the entire block for extra strength. Less chance of blowby with a steel sleeve at those high boost pressures.  This car was featured in Street Machine magazine. must be done by a very good machine shop. The shop up here in Nambour does sleeves for group nc race cars. Might be worth having a chat to them. East Coast Engine Centre, Nambour.

regards



#12 liswar

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 10:16 AM

Here in Perth I was quoted $200 per Sleeve supplied and fitted,
then you also needed new Pistons as you were back to standard bore, ,
Food for thought....

#13 Ice

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 10:36 AM

Here in Perth I was quoted $200 per Sleeve supplied and fitted,
then you also needed new Pistons as you were back to standard bore, ,
Food for thought....

Thats expensive had a 186 done about 5 years ago for $600 sleeve supplied and fitted
never had any problems with that motor

#14 macdou

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 08:04 PM

Thanks for the info. Will you be grouting your block ?

If you are able can you post up any pics of the sleeving process or worst case maybe a pic of the end product.

Sleeving all 6 takes some rigidity out of the block - it's best to do a short grout fill if you're sleeving 6 to give some rigidity back - still won't be as strong as an unsleeved block.
Depends on the projected power output, for a mild streeter it'll be fine, for a race donk I'd get another block.

Expensive to sleeve all 6, only worth it for a matching numbers or in some other way special block.

I've got a 186s block here I'm doing 6x sleeves on shortly, it's .060" with almost .020" wear, matching numbers HK munro block, so worth saving.



Ages ago I spoke with an engine builder and I am sure he said $100 a pot here in QLD.

Thats expensive had a 186 done about 5 years ago for $600 sleeve supplied and fitted
never had any problems with that motor



Thanks for the info I might give them a call when ready to go.

I know of an FC Holden, big turbo puts out over 700 HP, he sleeved the entire block for extra strength. Less chance of blowby with a steel sleeve at those high boost pressures. This car was featured in Street Machine magazine. must be done by a very good machine shop. The shop up here in Nambour does sleeves for group nc race cars. Might be worth having a chat to them. East Coast Engine Centre, Nambour.
regards



#15 imperial engines

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Posted 08 February 2019 - 06:09 PM

Dying art. I regularly sleeve entire blocks back to std-020. Clevelands and 308's are a favorite.Did a 253 to suit (now unobtainable) ACL High comp pistons. As far as block rigidity - i don't think there is a high output diesel engine that isn't sleeved.

 Sleeved properly the sleeve ads a lamination effect to the structure.



#16 Agent 34

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Posted 02 March 2019 - 05:29 PM

1 If your going to be hammer the bejeesus out of the block racing then get another one.

 

2  If your finger pointing at some car show and your ego is in the way then re sleeve 

 

the only reason i say this is that the original block may be holed by a stray conrod and this is the end result of loosing the block. then it's a big deal with a JP or Ck blocK

 

 

It's always never the " the main, or the big end " its always a lack of oil supply.": to the bearing and hence the rod/ bolt looses and lets go 

 

I have been running an argo rod and it's a light but is not infallible to oil starvationm. but this leads me to the the discussion of rod failure and holing a block. 

 

The argo rods seriously hang in there and the ARP bolt will not let go. 

 

So if you re-sleeve a really expensive block back to square then i suggest that you also do the lifter bores as well with brass  inserts and this will guarantee good oil pressure 

 

 

If its a race engine then its  a band aid fix to one cylinder  which has been damaged. If it's a road car then it's a good long term fix with no issues.

 

3 cents


Edited by Agent 34, 02 March 2019 - 05:30 PM.





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