19 inch on unflared hatch uc/Lx
#1
Posted 16 January 2019 - 10:54 PM
Body wise, clean up the seam spotweld section on the innergaurds/firewall and maybe have to raise the hump on the inners. The caliper location??? Hitting stuff or easier going IFS ..... not idea where tonreally start ,, thanks for staying awake if u got to here, cheers lads
AD2BAECF-EC5E-4D99-9D6E-03FBA6F5AFE3.png 556.54K 6 downloads
#2
Posted 16 January 2019 - 10:57 PM
#3
Posted 16 January 2019 - 11:00 PM
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#4
Posted 16 January 2019 - 11:02 PM
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#5
Posted 16 January 2019 - 11:07 PM
275 widths on the wheels makes it a lil fun, not sure what I’m doing yet, take it to the rails /4link, not sure yet aso move shock tower but need more reading so I can measure up the f150 9 inch.
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#6
Posted 17 January 2019 - 12:54 AM
Hmm, where to even start...
First thing I would suggest is that you run everything you propose past an engineer. You will need an engineering certificate at the end and they tend to be much easier to get along with if you work with them from before you even start. They will tell you what you can (legally) do and what you can't.
If you're using Commodore wheels then why wouldn't the Commodore brakes fit? The offset shouldn't be a problem because it all came from the same model car.
Although you're obviously talking about aftermarket spindles so whether they would suit the HSV brakes is anyone's guess, you may end up having to make custom caliper brackets (again, consult your engineer first). And then with a 2" drop spindle I can guarantee you're gonna have caliper to UCA clearance issues unless you mount the caliper on a weird angle (or make some strangely-shaped custom UCA). And whether you can get steering arms that will suit your geometry is another thing altogether!
I'd think your biggest issue will be clearance for the front wheel arch, it looks like you want to stay flare-less so you can't exactly cut the arch away to suit, although the positive offset wheels will help reduce the scrub radius a lot.
Not sure how you plan to achieve the wider front wheel track with Commodore wheels though, wheel spacers are illegal so unless there's some magic built into the spindle, hub and/or any custom control arms I think you will struggle to get the look you're after and still maintain a legal track measurement and acceptable geometry.
The rear will depend on the donor diff, more specifically on the rear wheel track measurement of the vehicle it came from. You take that figure, subtract the amount that the diff was shortened, then add 25mm to get your maximum allowable wheel track.
Again, the positive offset wheels will help here but bear in mind that once you opt for a diff that wide you'll be stuck with that particular offset rim, if you ever want to go for a deeper dish wheel then you'll likely need to shorten the diff again (or fit flares).
Also consider that the rear wheel track measurement should be smaller (skinnier) than the front but I suspect you will struggle to achieve this with the look you're after, otherwise the car will tend to be very tail-happy, IE snap-oversteer. And while that may sound fun I can tell you it isn't, especially in the wet!
Suspension design is extremely complicated, tiny changes can make huge differences so considering you're talking about wholesale changes you need to get your head around all the geometry first, even then you might bolt it all together and find out it just doesn't work?
#7
Posted 21 January 2019 - 02:56 PM
Hi lazyh, aka Andrew. That's a lotta work your planning for yourself! From the pics you seem to know what your doing regarding rust and body work. Be wary of changing too much if you think one day you'll sell the car. Heavily modified Torana's are a good way to reduce your bank balance. These two have been sitting on the market for a while. Seem to have skilled work done, but in my opinion done with questionable taste.
https://www.carsales...-4986144/?Cr=10
https://www.carsales...D-5334868/?Cr=3
Good luck with it though, cheers, Steve.
#8
Posted 25 January 2019 - 04:36 PM
Can't help you with anything regarding the big wheels or the brakes you're talking about. You'll find very few fans of big diameter, positive offset wheels here, and I'm certainly not one either. Don't know how you'd even imagine getting the car to sit well at the front with a diameter like that (I'm pretty sure it actually isn't possible), if nothing else - that would turn most people off.
What's the driveline plan?
#9
Posted 25 January 2019 - 05:28 PM
The positive offset wheels may allow you to push the steering axis (IOW the ball joint centreline) outward by fitting/making custom longer upper and lower control arms, and obviously longer tie rods to suit. And the wheels would hopefully be large enough diameter to straddle the ball joints, but that would depend on the axle drop built into the spindle?
That would make the scrub radius much smaller than a typical Torana, and having the wheel steer in a smaller arc would help a lot with wheel arch clearance by obviously transferring the problem elsewhere, meaning you would either have a much-reduced turning circle or clearance problems between the tyre and the control arms, but hey, you're designing custom control arms anyway so make them fit the rims you want to use.
You would almost certainly need to use coil-overs to reduce the footprint of the lower spring perch as the control arms would end up being a kind of 'Y' shape as opposed to a typical 'A' arm, but don't reduce the distance between the pivot points on each control arm or you'll end up needing castor rods.
Hmm, depending on the width of the rim you might even get a negative scrub radius (is that even possible)? I don't really even know what that would do handling-wise, it will certainly give much less 'feel for the road' but it may even mean the steering would become unstable, or probably 'twitchy' at best?
I think you'd almost have to find someone with some good suspension design software and get them to mock everything up and see what happens?
Edited by Bigfella237, 25 January 2019 - 05:30 PM.
#10
Posted 31 January 2019 - 09:58 AM
ABS cars have a negative scrub radius (like even Ferrari's and shit had to have this changed in the transition to ABS), and from all reports it does not improve the driving experience. This is well and truly side-tracked anyway.
Edited by Heath, 31 January 2019 - 09:59 AM.
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