24 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Fuel leaking onto an exhaust manifold that gets hot... seems dodgy as frOck to me!

You said it. Which do you think you will regret more, spending a little more money trailer it (or have someone come to you), or watching it burn from a fault you knew existed...?

[joeseph]

My XU-1 used to do that when not run for awhile - I was nervous as hell about it but it did calm down after 30 mins or so of running. The guys at the testing station said it was due to gaskets or o-rings drying up with no fuel when sat for a few months (while passing the car for a warrant of fitness as 'nothing in the regs about leaking fuel from the carbs..). I always carried an extinguisher just in case.

[muzzta]

Safety first, similar issue but had a power steering problem, ended up a steering rack, but mechanic didn't reconnect power steering fluid connections correctly after some testing, leaked, caught on fire, one fire ext didn't put it out, luckily had two on hand in the boot.

Scary seeing flames out the bonnet while driving.

Tip carry more than one fire ext.

Insurance covered it which was great.

Cheers

Muz

Edited by muzzta, 06 February 2019 - 07:07 PM.

[caterham2]

Hipotur, ever heard of the Darwin Awards?

[S pack]

interesting joseph, that is the case with ours, hasnt been run for 2 months. Maybe i can put something under the leak to catch the fuel and idle it for 15+ mins.

If it is O-rings and/or a gasket that has dried out you don't need to run the engine just need fuel to get to the seal/gasket to make it swell up and seal.

With the fuel you say has been dripping from the carb if it hasn't sealed itself up by now it isn't going to.

 

If you can't replace the offending O-ring/s or gasket or possibly even a faulty needle & seat in the fuel bowl yourself then tow or get the car towed to your mechanic.

[ozyozyozy]

Analyze the situation here, its fuel, dripping onto an exhaust.
An exhaust gets pretty darn hot and it does that pretty quick. Fuel is highly flammable.

By all means give it a crack, take the risk, drive it and let it burn to the ground.

[Balfizar]

Take the manifold and carby's off - take them to a carby specialist and have them overhauled -  replace run and check for leaks.  Bob's your uncle! have I missed something?

Edited by Balfizar, 07 February 2019 - 12:16 AM.

[S pack]

Take the manifold and carby's off - take them to a carby specialist and have them overhauled -  replace run and check for leaks.  Bob's your uncle! have I missed something?

The owner/s may not be mechanically inclined.

[claysummers]

Petrol requires a spark to ignite. Heat will just cause it to vaporise. That said I wouldn’t risk it.


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[Rockoz]

Petrol requires a spark to ignite. Heat will just cause it to vaporise. That said I wouldn’t risk it.


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Not quite right.

In fact very wrong.

Most everything has an ignition point temperature.

Sometimes referred to as autoignition point.

For petrol, this is about 250 degrees C.

Pretty sure exhaust manifolds are capable of being at least this hot.

[grumpy xu1]

Take the manifold and carby's off - take them to a carby specialist and have them overhauled -  replace run and check for leaks.  Bob's your uncle! have I missed something?

UM yep, the fact that the 3 carburetors when tunning, need to be balanced. Sure you bench tune them first, but then you fine tune them on the engine.

[Balfizar]

UM yep, the fact that the 3 carburetors when tunning, need to be balanced. Sure you bench tune them first, but then you fine tune them on the engine.

To drive it safely to a mechanic, I don't think tune balanced carby's are necessary.

[Cook]

Hipotur, I can't comment on your specific situation but I had a leaking carb in my v8 ute and quickly turned to a fire in the valley of the manifold. Glad I had an extinguisher.  Safety first.  If you aren't mechanically minded (like me) pay a little to get it towed as others have suggested, to a carby specialist and drive it home.  Maybe someone in Perth can suggest somewhere to take it. good luck. Ron

[grumpy xu1]

To drive it safely to a mechanic, I don't think tune balanced carby's are necessary.

Yeah, i get your point, i was meaning as a finished & driving scenario. I should have said that. Gary.

[MFM]

I figure for around $250 you can re-kit all three carbies. These arrived today for my car. They don't leak but I am figuring that it won't hurt to run a kit through them. Won't have to worry about engine bay fires as much.

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[grumpy xu1]

They're the std rebuild option, not the high performance model from Gavin aren't they ? He's a top guy, his stuff is good quality. You'll have no problems with anything from Classic Carb.

[MFM]

Not sure Gary. Didn't know there was a high performance option? I would only want standard anyway. I assume there's no tricks to re-kitting them?. Gary do you happen to know anyone close to Gold Coast who can soda blast the carbies whilst they are off? I think that's what they do now to clean them up?

[arrimar]

Call Ross at Carbo-tune at Tweed Heads.

https://www.carbotune.com.au

[henry57]

Often the middle carb on triple strombergs leaks because of the needle and seat. Gunk in the fuel line tends to go straight through to the middle carb. I’ve seen it lots of times.

[MFM]

I'll be honest with you, two of my carbies were also dripping but not during running only when it cooled off.(as was sitting in a shed for 20 years) Dry as a bone whilst running. I just counted the turns IN and then unscrewed the large brass nut on the base of each carby and replaced the 'O' ring on it and the smaller knurled nut 'O' ring. Less than $5 to buy then used vasoline on them and screwed them in all the way and counted turns out. Fixed. I'm not exaggerating it was truly simple. The hardest bit it the front carby brass nut

[S pack]

I gather you removed not only the jet adjuster but the whole jet holder, including the jet from the carby body.

Did you centre the jets correctly when you screwed them back in?

Have you checked the mixture needles are not jamming or excessive resistance in the jets with the air valves closed against the bridge?

[grumpy xu1]

I gather you removed not only the jet adjuster but the whole jet holder, including the jet from the carby body.
Did you centre the jets correctly when you screwed them back in?
Have you checked the mixture needles are not jamming or excessive resistance in the jets with the air valves closed against the bridge?

All good Dave, he's about re kit them ect. Hopefully all good then.