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Lc hydraulic clutch problems


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#1 evl666

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 08:24 AM

Well my clutch won’t disengage when the the car is in gear. I look to have good travel on the slave cyclinder. I look to have good travel on the spigot against the clutch fingers. Anyone know how much travel I should have? I might add the engine isn’t running at the moment so this is the car in the ground, on a slight hill I push the clutch pedal in and try and move the car and it won’t budge

#2 S pack

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 08:43 AM

Release the hand brake? :tomaatit:

Seriously though, if the car has been sitting for a long time unused the clutch plate may have stuck to the flywheel.

You will need to climb under the car and whilst an assistant depresses the clutch pedal (g/box in neutral) check to see if the pressure plate releases from the clutch plate and using a blade screwdriver test if the clutch plate is free of the flywheel.


Edited by S pack, 10 February 2019 - 08:45 AM.


#3 rexy

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 10:05 AM

As above, likely causes include stuck clutch/gearbox and stuck brakes.

Can you push it with the car in neutral and handbrake off?

Was the car mobile before it was parked?

Jack the front and rear up and see if the wheels turn easily.

#4 evl666

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 12:32 PM

Thanks fellas. Been sitting for 4 years or so. I’ve taken the inspection cover off and I’ll get my assistant to give me a hand. It’s definitely pushing on the clutch fingers but it looks like the clutch disk is not separating for the the clutch plate. Can push in neutral with hand brake off. It’s up on my hoist so working on it is pretty easy. The car drove fine before it got a birthday so I’m not sure what’s going on.

Edited by evl666, 10 February 2019 - 12:34 PM.


#5 claysummers

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 01:18 PM

Try pushing in gear may free it up


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#6 evl666

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 05:39 PM

Right....so it looks like I’m not getting enough throw from the slave. I can go underneath and leaver the clutch fork to open further and it becomes free. I’ve bleed the bloody thing and I still can’t get any more throw. Tell me is there meant to be some free play between the spigot bearing and clutch fingers or is it meant to be hard up before you start pressing down on the pedal

Edited by evl666, 10 February 2019 - 05:40 PM.


#7 claysummers

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 10:55 PM

Minimal clearance at the mechanical interfaces either side of the hydraulics, like 0.5mm at the slave and 6mm at the pedal.


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#8 evl666

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 04:39 PM

Ok so I still haven’t sorted this.....I’ve set the rod from the pedal to the booster so it’s just touching. New master and new line to clutch slave. New seals in clutch slave. It’s giving me throw but not enough to release the clutch plate...what am I missing?

#9 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 05:00 PM

Get a HK slave, it has a smaller bore.

#10 evl666

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 06:25 AM

If I adjust the rod on the clutch pedal in to sit hard up in the master cylinder I can get the clutch to disengage but the pedal is only a few mm of the floor when it starts to disengage. The rod at the slave is fully wound out. How much clearance should there be between the clutch disc to the flywheel and clutch plate when disengaged? Want to make sure I have enough clearance so the disc doesn’t wear out

Edited by evl666, 09 March 2019 - 06:27 AM.


#11 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 06:56 AM

The HK slave will give you more throw due to the smaller bore. It is common to use one to address this problem.

#12 rexy

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 07:23 PM

If it was ok before it’s time out it should be ok now.

If it’s like the CRS hydraulic systems they are very difficult to bleed. The old one on the blue LX needed the slave to be filled with a syringe or to be bled up off car.

I suspect you still have air in the system. Only other likely options are that you have mucked up the geometry during disassembly/ reassembly or that the pressure plate has coincidentally failed.

#13 S pack

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 08:34 PM

If I adjust the rod on the clutch pedal in to sit hard up in the master cylinder I can get the clutch to disengage but the pedal is only a few mm of the floor when it starts to disengage. The rod at the slave is fully wound out. How much clearance should there be between the clutch disc to the flywheel and clutch plate when disengaged? Want to make sure I have enough clearance so the disc doesn’t wear out

Perhaps it's time to reco the master cyl or the slave or both?



#14 evl666

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 08:22 PM

New master/reco slave. Bench bleed the system before fitting. I actually moved the rod on the pedal when I was re assembling to give it a better angle and more throw. Like I said I can get the clutch to disengage but it’s very close to the floor. When the clutch is engaged there is no movement with the fork/throw out bearing so it’s hard up against the fingers of the pressure plate. Not sure if that’s correct or not.

#15 S pack

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 08:58 PM

Ok, you hadn't said that in your original post. Have you also replaced the clutch and pressure plate assy?

With the push type clutch assy it is normal to have a small amount of free play in the clutch fork when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released). In other words the throwout bearing should not be in constant contact with the diaphragm fingers.

Rexy may be onto it when he said the pressure plate may have collapsed.

 

I've had at least one experience with cracked pressure plate diaphragm fingers. The clutch suddenly goes from working normally to a very soft spongy pedal and incomplete release of the clutch making it difficult to change gears.


Edited by S pack, 10 March 2019 - 08:58 PM.


#16 evl666

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 09:18 PM

Clutch was fine when pulled apart so it’s possible the pressure plate might have failed but gee I’d be unlucky if it did. I’d assume if the pressure plate failed I wouldn’t get any disengagement at all. Just came across some interesting info on the net that was mentioned above. Dellow now sell the hk 6 cylinder slave as a part of there kit because it overcomes the problem of not enough throw. It’s a 1 1/16” opposed to 1 3/16” bore. For the sake of $60 bucks I’m going to give this ago.

#17 S pack

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 10:13 PM

For $60 it's certainly worth a shot. Just weird how you can go from having a system that works properly, fit a new m/cyl  + reco the slave and end up with problems.






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