_HTPREM350_
Posted 22 February 2019 - 03:32 PM
Hi Gents,
Just wanted to ask as, I can't seem to find an answer in the forums.
Are the standard original rear diff control arms strong enough to handle decent horsepower or should they be changed out for chrome molly style stronger replacements?. Talking 500hp 383 chev
Cheers
Scrivet Counter
Posted 22 February 2019 - 05:29 PM
Hi Gents,
Just wanted to ask as, I can't seem to find an answer in the forums.
Are the standard original rear diff control arms strong enough to handle decent horsepower or should they be changed out for chrome molly style stronger replacements?. Talking 500hp 383 chev
Cheers
Stick with the banjo diff, it'll break before the control arms. 
Edited by S pack, 22 February 2019 - 05:29 PM.
_Lazarus_
Posted 22 February 2019 - 06:10 PM
They rip out of the floor before they bend, don't they ? I think I'd be using tubular with 500hp. And reinforcing the body mounts.
_HTPREM350_
Posted 22 February 2019 - 06:29 PM
They rip out of the floor before they bend, don't they ? I think I'd be using tubular with 500hp. And reinforcing the body mounts.
Dont know do they????, never had a Torrie with this much power. How do you go about reinforcing the brackets?? Where do you buy the stronger control arms??. That is what I would like to know.
Stick with the banjo diff, it'll break before the control arms.
Yeah mate, thats really helped, TA
Forum Fixture
Posted 22 February 2019 - 08:57 PM
Edited by Lima31, 22 February 2019 - 08:58 PM.
Forum Fixture
Posted 22 February 2019 - 10:08 PM
_HTPREM350_
Posted 23 February 2019 - 05:45 PM
Stock will be fine. What engine mounts do you have?
Tough Mounts bud
_HTPREM350_
Posted 23 February 2019 - 05:50 PM
If your planning on doing some launching with that power, yes the arm mounts pull out of the body over time, they can also elongate the bolt holes.
Simple fix for the bolt holes, weld some thick washers to the holes. Beefing up the mounts are a littlw trickier, everyone has there own thoughts for that.
Havent heard of the arms failing, im sure they would be twisting up.
Few different people make replcement arms, few different choices.
I have a set of old tube arms, bush one end, heim joint other, have also made cro moly rose jointed arms for a few cars.
If its still spends more time streeting, dont want the bushes too hard needs a bit of flex/give in them or it places more pressure on the mounts.
Thanks ozy, Mostly a streeter mate, maybe the odd trip to the Nostaglia's for a grudge with mates, but that's it. Thought about the washer trick, just was not sure if that would be enough. I have found some aftermarket tubular rods and they are quite expensive, But so would the 9inch hanging out the ass end of the car because the rods have broken, lol
Cheers bud appreciate the feedback
Forum Fixture
Posted 23 February 2019 - 08:47 PM
Forum Fixture
Posted 23 February 2019 - 09:35 PM
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 24 February 2019 - 10:28 AM
Just do a little bit of reinforcing of the arms if you are worried about them.
Get some 1.6mm sheet bent up to fit inside the arms.
A 20mm section every 100 to 150mm tacked inside the arms should suffice.
Some stitch welds around the mount points on to the chassis may suffice.
Alternatively, a reinforcement plate inside the car and some bolts through to the underside section would help spread the load.
A racing hatch I used to have had the top mounts incorporated into the roll cage structure with a brace.
_HTPREM350_
Posted 25 February 2019 - 09:01 AM
Washer is an old school trick works well.
Use a thick one eg 2-3mm.
Just to give you an idea the cromoly arms with rose joints i have made cost about $550 just in parts and materials alone before i even make a cut or a weld.
So the prices people are charging are probably reasonable as they are trying recoup costs of development and jiggs required.
Thanks Oz, yeah I thought the prices were well justified.
_HTPREM350_
Posted 25 February 2019 - 09:05 AM
Just do a little bit of reinforcing of the arms if you are worried about them.
Get some 1.6mm sheet bent up to fit inside the arms.
A 20mm section every 100 to 150mm tacked inside the arms should suffice.
Some stitch welds around the mount points on to the chassis may suffice.
Alternatively, a reinforcement plate inside the car and some bolts through to the underside section would help spread the load.
A racing hatch I used to have had the top mounts incorporated into the roll cage structure with a brace.
Yeah I have seen this type of mod on here, probs will do that and Ozy's suggestions, then just keep and eye out on them and see how they are handling. Thanks mate
Surely for that we're talking something like a hard launch on slicks right?
Engine dynoed at 513hp and I do give my cars a hard time, running street Et's and it will see some track work.
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