28 replies to this topic

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Most people with any sort of idea are allergic to nolathane because it is proven time and time again to be rubbish in almost all applications.

[mugginz]

Nolathane bushes should place less stress on the lower control arms. Rubber bushes don't slide against the brackets on the K frame and so must deform as the lower arm goes through its range of motion whereas a nolathane bush that's been lubricated on the sides as they're supposed to be will rotate more easily against the K frame brackets placing less stress on the lower control arm to bush interface

[ozyozyozy]

Street car use rubber.
If you do go to a poly bush superpro, the shells for the bush i find are far better quality.
It is a subject that comes up on a regular basis

[mugginz]

Another vote for SuperPro here

[S pack]

Another vote for SuperPro here

+1

[S pack]

okay so now we are gettin some where sounds like super pro are first choice followed by white line then standard rubber and keep the nolathane for throwing at the neighbours cat got it sorry was living in the past fitted the nolathane to a 308 lj i had ten year ago and they were fine with no real issues sounds like the quality has changed in the years gone by 

So that said are the super pro ones of a similar texture/compound or are they made up of a slightly more forgivivng material

Rubber is my 1st choice, however if I was going to use Urethane bushes then I would only use SuperPro.

The only Urethane bushes I have in my Suspension are the outrigger bushes. All the rest are rubber.

 

Personally, if your car is going to see mostly street use then stick with rubber.

Edited by S pack, 24 February 2019 - 10:01 AM.

[Bigfella237]

https://superpro.com...n&cid=999500556

 

Superpro are available in three different compounds for Torana, depending on the suffix to the part number:

 

"-70K" = softest
"-80K" = medium
"-90K" = hardest

 

They recommend the 90K for the front LCA bushes and your choice of stiffness for the rear LCA bush and trailing arm bushes (all are the same physical size).

 

I thought it was Superpro who had the eccentric LCA bushes for extra castor but I can't see them listed now, or was that someone else?

[mugginz]

Personally, if your car is going to see mostly street use then stick with rubber.

But for an application that has a weak bush to control arm interface I'd recommend poly.

[grumpy xu1]

Whiteline make eccentric bushes for extra camber ect. Personally i don't think that there will be anything wrong with the whiteline, they're almost all from the same parent company, but vary in composition, I'm going to use full whiteline in the clubsport this year, but they're not really a hard bush. A lh i had in the past i was told to run, hard rack bushes, to keep the steering track stiff & on track & the rest rubber, although supposedly the outrigger bush affects the braking performance, which it does on commodore ect. Try it out & see how you go.

[S pack]

But for an application that has a weak bush to control arm interface I'd recommend poly.

Sorry, I don't follow what you mean by 'a weak bush to control arm interface'

[mugginz]

The bush is contained in one side if the lower control arm by a 4mm wide circumference of metal and on the other by a lip that's about 8mm wide.

An arm that has engagement all the way through the length of the bush would be much more resistant to the twisting force of a rubber bush than a pressed steel one like what you see with a cast member on a Commodore.

[LJ RB30]

Another vote for SuperPro here

 

Me too

[mugginz]

A rubber bush resists the turning force by vertue of the fact that you have rubber on steel that's squeezed together. Take a spring out of the front end of a rubber bushed Torana and move it up and down. Then do the same with a poly bushed and lubed Torana member and the difference is chalk and cheese.

[S pack]

I've got a 30yo brand new never used pair of SuperPro SP1121-90K bushes that I had special order made in black.

They look to me to install and operate in exactly the same way as the original rubber bushes, the difference being the uretahane would make your suspension a helluva lot stiffer than a rubber bush ever will.

[mugginz]

Yes, stiffer as far as deformation is concerned but less resistance to rotation which leads to more accuracy

[S pack]

So you're saying the urethane bush rotates on the centre tube which is locked into the suspension member?

 

Sorry but I'm not convinced. The bushes I have, the centre tube will not move, I cannot get it out to lubricate it and the bush will not rotate on the tube when locked into a vice.

SuperPro's instructions are the suspension bolts must be torqued to the vehicle manufacturers specifications with the vehicle on the ground at the normal ride height.

Sounds to me they operate in exactly the same manner as a normal rubber bush, only a lot stiffer, but as I have no personal experience with using these bushes I am only speculating.

[mugginz]

Yes the bushes rotate around the crush tube which is why you're supposed to lubricate them

[76lxhatch]

^ That's correct, anything polyurethane in a moving joint usually operates more as a bearing than a bushing. Sometimes they can be pretty tight, which if you think about the comparison with bonded rubber, shouldn't matter too much.

 

Regarding the eccentric options, Noltec (light blue) used to do them years ago but have long since been bought out (I thought Whiteline had too?). Superpro doesn't offer eccentric but they are pretty easily machined to accept a slightly larger crush tube with offset hole, I've done this with the rear lowers on the front end to allow a bit more caster without excessive negative camber.

 

This shows the eccentric modification, and also note the grease grooves in the crush tubes:

http://www.gmh-toran...e-8#entry849759