34 replies to this topic

[VDO]

It will have a ballast resistor for the coil.

 

The ballast resistor is designed to supply 9 volts to the coil during running, BUT you should check and test that you're getting 12 volts to the coil during cranking.

 

If not, look at the ignition switch for incorrect wiring setup.

[grumpy xu1]

As far as I'm concerned, quite a number of carburetor problems are also related to the ignition system. It's quite often the case with multiple carburetors. & once an engine has a fuel source, if the ignition system is all good, the carburetors are clean, the tune is correct, the linkages aren't worn ect & the engine is in good condition. There should be no reason why it either won't idle or just a little above idle. Maximum taper & ovality issues come from reving or driving a cold engine, wait to the thermostat opens, & you're going to have less troubles for sure. There's also differences in carburetor rebuild kit quality and the fact of using just a carburetor cleaner as compared to say hydroblasting all the carburetor components, before a rebuild. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

Yes Ken, i think it works very well, there is a lot of good things from hydroblasting mate.

[grumpy xu1]

I have a hydroblaster Ken, because i think so highly of the cleaning & surface finnish quality. To me, it is the only way to go, there's so mate things you can do with it restoration wise, obviously not a cheap set starting out at around 40 grand, but you need a lot of air delivery. 800 + litres a minute is ideal. But yes the benefits are definitely there.The motorbike scene is very much into the use of hydroblasting. The Australian car scene is still a bit slow to take it up, when carburetors are cleaned with it, it prevents the build up of carbon & soot type deposits basically. So they stay smoother for longer, but if you're interested in the parts also looking like original new, i can't speak highly enough of it. + it has the benifits of not damaging any surfaces and heat build up or distortion. It basically uses, compressed air, water & a slight abrasive media, that id easily cleaned out. Obviously there is specific ratios in the make up & different media's, but i run 2 particular styles to suit a factory appearance. It's the only way i personally would be performing the task. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

Sorry about the spell check correcting my wording, i hope you worked out what i was trying to say ? Gary. I should have read it all before posting. Gary.

[Oversteer]

I can vouch for hydroblasting, made my own unit out of a cheap sandblast cabinet and bunnings water pump, sealed up the cabinet and added feed, return, bypass and drain fittings,,, hardest part was sourcing the different fine grades of glass required. Works very well to restore original finish to aluminium and stainless steel etc.

Not a perfect unit, leaks and makes a bit of mess !,  and after ~50 hours of blasting the $149 ozito pump is deadish, but it's done what would cost you >$2000 worth of work.

Used 2 x 17cfm compressors linked together for air, but now have big 40cfm compressor that loves it.

[grumpy xu1]

Gary yes definitely a good method of cleaning carbs. 40k is a bit out of my reach thou. :-))

You just outsource the job mate. $250 or so of blasting the carburetors & manifold ect, using all quality gear & your carbs, will walk themselves out the door. Wise money spent mate.