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LX Hatch Complete Restoration

Started by jeffblanco , Mar 09 2019 06:55 PM

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416 replies to this topic

#51 Heath

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Name:Heath
Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
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Posted 14 June 2019 - 01:50 PM

I'm not sure if this answers your question, but the first thing I did was buy the rims 10x17's and 8x17's and asked for as much dish as possible to look like the hot-wires you would see back in the day without going crazy.

Then I sat them under the car where I thought they should sit, and measured from rim to rim.

Rodtech in Adelaide did the rest with the diff.

Just FYI (and it wasn't my question in the first place) but wheels like that are generally just done in one casting per 'size'. The offset range is just a case of machining different amounts of meat off the hub mating face (normally you'd have about an inch range of offset to choose from) so the dish is not affected at all.

I would IMAGINE that any 17x10" Repro Hotwire from that company has exactly the same amount of dish. And consequently your reply doesn't really answer his question, haha.

Edited by Heath, 14 June 2019 - 01:50 PM.

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#52 jeffblanco

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 03:43 PM

I understand what your'e saying about the wheels, so I can say without any doubt I have no idea what the track of the diff is.

I gave a measurement to Rodtech and he built the 9" to that.

Your'e right, the question still hasn't been answered.

Regards Mando.

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#53 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 15 June 2019 - 02:30 PM

Great build. Coming along nicely. Will be some fun once complete.
I doubt you will need the clutch hole and bolt if your going hydraulic clutch. Your hole will be elsewhere.
I like your aircon set up. I may need to look into that a bit further. I want to put AC in mine too.

Keep up the good work.

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#54 jeffblanco

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Posted 15 June 2019 - 05:08 PM

Thanks Grant,

Iv'e bought a hydrolic clutch kit from Mal Wood.

If the clutch cable isn't going to exit where the clutch hole and bolt is on the firewall where would it end up?

The car is finally striped and ready to get dipped on Monday.

Iv'e marked up every hole, dent and bracket that needs to be filled or repaired.

I hope I don't get to many surprises once the paint and bog are removed.

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Regards Mando.

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#55 Bigfella237

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 12:50 AM

Hmm, if the shell is getting dipped, won't you lose all your marks in the process?

The Mal Wood hydraulic clutch master cylinders are totally under the dash aren't they? All you need to pass through the firewall is a feed hose from the reservoir in to the master cylinder, and a pressure hose back out to the slave cylinder.

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#56 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 09:07 AM

Yep, I’m with you Bigfella. Depending on where he puts the reservoir the original hole can go. I passed mine through under the booster so it’s not visible. As for the pressure line, I ran that internal under dash then drilled a hole in the tunnel to bring out where I wanted it. Was then covered with carpet so not seen.
Can I suggest you use the remote bleeder from Malwood too. Helps for a lot less mess when bleeding the clutch

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#57 jeffblanco

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 02:04 PM

Iv'e taken photos of the markings on the shell so the guy's at the painter's shop can see what needs to be done.

Hope it works out because I won't get a second chance.

I'll give Mal Wood a call tomorrow and ask about the remote bleeder.

Where is the pressure line connected to?

Regards Mando.

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#58 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 05:06 PM

The slave cylinder.
In a nutshell it’s the reservoir to the pedal/master then from there to the slave cylinder/throw out bearing.
Given these are flexible rubber or braided lines, you can choose your own route and exit point through the firewall or tunnel.

Hope that helps or makes sense.

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#59 grumpy xu1

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 05:16 PM

Yep, bleeder extension's remote bleeders ect, are way easier. & the likes of dash 3 braided hose, I've got complete dash 3 in my cluby, & the clutch is way nicer to use, you can half clutch it, all the time. Makes a massive difference from a rubber hose. Gary.

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#60 jeffblanco

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Posted 16 June 2019 - 06:46 PM

Thanks guy's, I know what your'e talking about now.

Regards Mando.

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#61 Holdenbn74

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Posted 07 July 2019 - 09:25 AM

Love ya work! Great to see these being reborn with such care 👌

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#62 jeffblanco

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Posted 08 July 2019 - 02:18 PM

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I went to see the car today.

Very happy with the body, the guy's at Minus Paint have done a fantastic job.

Regards Mando.

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#63 purrlx

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Posted 09 July 2019 - 07:27 AM

Looks like a great rust free shell.

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#64 Heath

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Posted 10 July 2019 - 12:15 PM

That is so cool to look at.

I'm never going to strip another car body by hand like I've done my hatch. That was the shittest idea hahaha.

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#65 jeffblanco

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 02:25 PM

I took some more pictures of the shell today.

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Regards Mando.

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#66 Bigfella237

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 08:31 PM

Now you're just showing off!

That is a thing of beauty! Don't you wish you could just clear over that and keep it as is?

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#67 Joe

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Posted 04 August 2019 - 08:46 PM

Hi Jeff,

That's a good build. How much does the airfilter protrude to the bonnet. And what setup/harness are you using to run the E.F.I. If you don't mind asking. Thanks .

Fernando

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#68 jeffblanco

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Posted 05 August 2019 - 07:34 PM

I think the air cleaner sticks past the bonnet about 25mm from memory but I can't be completely certain.

I only had it set up for a few day's and that was a while ago.

My tuner want's me to use Holley EFI ECU harness kit for LS2 / LS3 / LS7 510-550-603.

Regards Mando.

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#69 Joe

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Posted 08 August 2019 - 06:24 PM

Thanks Mando

I think the air cleaner sticks past the bonnet about 25mm from memory but I can't be completely certain.

I only had it set up for a few day's and that was a while ago.

My tuner want's me to use Holley EFI ECU harness kit for LS2 / LS3 / LS7 510-550-603.

Regards Mando.