25 replies to this topic

[Cook]

Hi all.  Decided to have a crack at stripping the steering column (LX) and glad i did.  Upper bearing virtually fell out.  But I am having difficulties getting the lower bearing off. The shaft is out of the housing and from what I read once I unscrew the retainer strap the bearing and plastic housing should slide off but mine wont budge.  The bearing rotates freely around the shaft but wont move up or down. I'm guessing the bearing housing is seized to the shaft but I'm no expert and don't want to give it a love tap just yet. Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 09 March 2019 - 11:08 PM.

[S pack]

Hi Ron,

 

Have you removed the adaptor retaining circlip?

Blue arrow in this pic.

 

Attached Files

•  steeringmod005.jpg   87.45K   12 downloads

[Cook]

Yes Dave I have that out. The shaft is out of the housing and all I seem to have is the bearing and plastic housing on the shaft. Here's a pic. Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Steering column lower bearing.jpg   180.03K   11 downloads

Edited by Cook, 10 March 2019 - 09:09 AM.

[S pack]

Ok, I was just having a problem working out exactly what you had achieved.

Tap the back of the adaptor with a block of wood or wooden mallet, alternating from side to side, to knock the adaptor and bearing off the shaft.

From memory there is an O-ring sandwiched in between the steering shaft and the inner bearing race. Looks like you also have some corrosion issues helping to stick it on as well.

Be aware the bearing may not survive.

Edited by S pack, 10 March 2019 - 10:05 AM.

[Cook]

Thanks Dave.  Yeah some corrosion is an understatement. lol.  I think that has caused the problem and I don't think the bearing will survive and not sure that it is in good condition anyway.  Will hopefully get a chance to have a go at it later today and see how we go.  Thanks again. Cheers Ron

[S pack]

Resto Country and Rares have the repro bearings and adaptor kits with Resto Country being slightly less $$$$. But certainly not cheap in any case.

https://www.ebay.com...yEAAOSwesVbQxYL

[grumpy xu1]

As Dave said, if they're not rusty, you just undo it & they come out easy as, i believe they had 2 screws in the sides by memory, i did a few of them & they weren't difficult. Use some freeze & realese around the bearing mate, give it 2 minute's to work should make it a lot easier. Gary.

[Cook]

Thanks guys.  Got it off with a bit of persuasion.  Rust was/is the problem.  I've cleaned up the shaft as well as i can and hit it with some rust converter.  I'm now debating whether to buy the Restos bearings or try and fit a sealed bottom bearing as, Rob "Rodomo" and others have done but it would need to be a simple fitment for me to attempt it.  I also read an old thread where it was suggested the upper bearing can slip around but unless I am missing something I don't think it can because of the clips top and bottom.  Is that correct?  Also is the top bearing able to be pressed into the pot by hand.  I couldn't tell from the old one because it fell out in 2 pieces.  Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 11 March 2019 - 11:04 AM.

[S pack]

Ron, the upper bearing needs to be secure in the coffee pot. The top edge of the alloy where the bearing fits into the pot is machine swaged over to hold the bearing in otherwise the bearing would fall out if you turn the pot upside down.

The upper bearing gets secured to the steering shaft with the circlips, spring and washers, but if the bearing is not secured into the coffee pot, the steering shaft and bearing assy could potentially move up and down in the coffee pot, esp if the collapsible pins in the shaft have sheared.

 

Unfortunately replacing the upper bearing requires breaking off the swaged retaining lip to remove the old bearing outer race and to install the new bearing.

I remember reading on the forum a member used araldite to secure his new bearing into the pot.

Edited by S pack, 11 March 2019 - 11:18 AM.

[Cook]

OK Dave I think I'm starting to understand it a bit better.  Bear with me.  So here is a pic of the pot as it is now.  I'm guessing when I thought the bearing had fallen out this isn't the case and only the inner half is out and this is what's left?  So I would need to remove the lip with the arrow to get the rest out if I am understanding it properly? I did see somewhere where araldite was used.  Also saw where a different set of bearings was used but getting a bit complicated for me.  Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Steering Pot lip.jpg   147.24K   8 downloads

[S pack]

OK Dave I think I'm starting to understand it a bit better.  Bear with me.  So here is a pic of the pot as it is now.  I'm guessing when I thought the bearing had fallen out this isn't the case and only the inner half is out and this is what's left?  So I would need to remove the lip with the arrow to get the rest out if I am understanding it properly?  Cheers Ron

You're catching on quick there Ron.

[grumpy xu1]

Loctite making a bearing retainer, i can't remember the part number. But buy the correct product. Gary.

[TORLX8]

This is the one I used.

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[TORLX8]

Ron my bearing was totally collapsed too.
I bashed the outer remaining bearing housing out from behind until the top machined retaining edge broke away.
Removed, and fitted new bearing using the Loctite 660.

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[Cook]

Thanks gents.  Let's see what today brings. LOL. Cheers Ron

[Cook]

Well one project turns into 20 sub-projects.  Isn't it always the way. I didn't mention that when I dismantled the column one of the 4 bolt head screws (that's what they look like) sheared off at the head so first job today was to weld a nut on it and successfully unbolt it.  A visit to Resto Country ( I really preferred Kingswood Country but showing my age) and got the 2 bearings and clips etc.  Picked up the loctite from Bearing Wholesalers.  So heading in the right direction. Still haven't removed the ignition barrel from the pot and suspect I need the ignition key to do so as I can only get it so far out.,but that's a job for tomorrow.  Also noticed only one of the four locator tabs on the plastic surround are there so will need to address that.  Had another look at the indicator stalk as I knew there was an issue with the wiring.  Here's some pics.  I haven't done much research but will sus which goes where but noticed there are three terminals (if that's what they are called) and only two wires.  Any thoughts?  Cheers Ron 

Attached Files

•  Indicator 1.jpg   179.72K   8 downloads
•  Indicator 2.jpg   198.81K   8 downloads

[TORLX8]

Yes just 2 wires to high/low beam switch on indicator stalk Ron. You can see which ones with solder still on them.

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[Cook]

Thanks Campbell.  Is anyone able to confirm the location of the 2 wires.  From images I have seen on the net the black wire goes to terminal #1 and white to #3 but just want to double check if possible before I solder them on. Cheers Ron

[TORLX8]

I can't recall which wire to which terminal Ron, but I just went by the length of the wires. As in longest wire to furthest terminal. I'm sure it's not the best method, but it worked.

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[S pack]

I suspect it doesn't matter which wire goes to which of those two terminals but it would if all three terminals had wires connected.

[Cook]

Thanks guys.  I was wondering if it would matter which goes where as long as I use the 2 correct terminals.  The wires seem to line up as I thought with black #1 and white #3.  I've just been able to confirmed the auto elec is back on Monday so I will ask him. In the meantime cleaning and painting parts, got the balance of the old top bearing out and getting ready to replace all.  Now if only I could remember the sequence.  Can't afford to stuff it up, particularly if I Loctite in the top bearing. LOL.  Cheers Ron.  

[tuxedoss]

Just put the wires back on the 2 terminals with solder on them, its just an on/off switch, joins the 2 wires together , doesn't matter which wire on which terminal as long as its the ones with solder already

[Cook]

Thanks Brett.  Cheers Ron

[Cook]

OK all.  Ready to put the thing pack together and failed at the first step.  My son said, whatever you do, don't stretch the split retainer washer that goes on the bottom of the upper bearing.  Well guess what.  So a few questions.

 

Would it be feasible to use the old circlip in that location? Or could I do a tack weld behind it?

The original parts had 2 washers, which I presume were top and bottom of the spring but are different sizes and not sure which goes where as they fell out when I dismantled it.The new kit only has one washer.  Here's some pics. I'm guessing use the larger one at the top where the bearing diameter is larger?

Lastly, how on earth am I likely to compress the spring and get the top circlip in, and I'm conscious of not putting pressure on the lower part of the shaft to protect it from collapsing.

 

Looking forward to comments and advice as always. Cheers Ron 

Attached Files

•  New steering upper bearing kit.jpg   177.23K   3 downloads
•  Original upper bearing washers.jpg   115.37K   4 downloads

[308 Sunbird]

Thanks Campbell.  Is anyone able to confirm the location of the 2 wires.  From images I have seen on the net the black wire goes to terminal #1 and white to #3 but just want to double check if possible before I solder them on. Cheers Ron

Sorry for late reply Ron but l can confirm the white wire goes to the middle terminal (3) and black to (1).